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Re: UAEcycle - BROSS Zenith
Well wait then
May 11, 2024, 09:55:10 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Since this thread is back from the dead, I thought I might as well give an update. More than 8000k done. No issues. Still the first headset with no signs of wear which is a pleasant surprise. I wasn’t too confident in those bearings. This is the bike with the race wheels on: 60mm deep/1300g with 28mm tubulars. These feel soo nice when accelerating and the cornering feel is insane. I’m still in love with the handling of this frame and the super quick steering response. These bikes can RAIL corners. The set of 30c I have on my blue bike inflated to 32mm. I can lean the bike waaaaay too far into turns. Its amazing. May 12, 2024, 01:32:58 PM |
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Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube. referring to the video by henrychungfitness: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through. I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame. May 12, 2024, 05:19:22 PM |
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Re: Tavelo Aero Frame
Maybe reselling is a point….however not for me…and besides that I would never buy a used carbon frame.I mean, Giant went from a kind of no name OEM to a top road bike brand by doing 2 things. 1 getting bikes in the Tour, and 2 getting into brick and mortar stores for better sales and service support. That's pretty much all these brands have to do to justify what they are charging. May 13, 2024, 01:14:45 PM |
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Re: Any idea of Serenadebikes carbon wheelset?
Mustn't be diving too deep in the forum if you don't know people want wider rims in 2024. They'd be nice wheels in 2021.
May 15, 2024, 04:50:54 AM |
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Re: Any idea of Serenadebikes carbon wheelset?
I'll chime in here. I've done 3000k on this set of Serenade Wheels. They market this as their Allroad/Gravel wheels but I think it really is basically a modern road wheelset. 55deep/31wide/25internal, DT Ratchet style straight pull hubs compatible with DT Swiss freehubs, Pillar Wing 20 spokes (24 front and back) and aluminium nipples, 1450g total weight. I bought them with hooked sidewalls, but they're also available in hookless if that's what you want. The pictures show these with 28mm Vittoria Corsas. They come up just shy of 31mm on these wheels and form a nice transition between rim and tire, as you can see. Performance wise, they're fast. I paid roughly 480 EUR including shipping and taxes and I think this is all the wheelset you could ever ask for for that kind of money. The only thing I can criticize is the hubs. I rode these through a very wet winter. The bearings in the front hub started sounding rough in very little time. They turned out to be basically dry with no grease, so they corroded quickly. I replaced them with a set of high quality SKF bearings. The wheels roll fine ever since. The rear hub bearings are still smooth. But I think if you wanted a tad more performance, you should opt for better hubs. Serenade offers all kinds of hub choices including genuine DT Swiss hubs. Also, I think Centerlock is a useless standard. The rotors are more expensive. The fitment is not a good as 6 bolt. Just my personal opinion. If I was given the choice again, I'd probably go with 6 bolt interface hubs. Buying experience with Serenade was OK but not stellar. While pricing is good, the communication was a bit lacking at times. That's one thing I'd recommend you guys improve on. I only really received updates when asking. They were quick to answer any questions upon ordering and VERY SLOW to answer questions on delivery, once the payment was made. That's a bit of a pattern with a lot of chinese sellers IME. All in all, I can recommend SERENADE. Please note: I was told that they are a reseller rather than a manufacturer, sourcing their parts from all kinds of factories. Maybe you can tell us more about that here. May 15, 2024, 05:30:34 AM |
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Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
Hello, I fixed the headset play simply adding a 1mm headset spacer (cutting it to a C shape) above the C ring, I think a 0.5mm would be enough but i don't have anyone right now. C-ring I'm using is this one a had around. Expander I'm using is Deda Expander 70,very stiff and light, those AliExpress expanders with O-rings or springs doesn't convince me. also I'm not using the Hygge handlebar, Og-evkin one instead.There's no play at all, I filled the tiny gap (smaller than the one at the bottom of the head tube) with grease to avoid dust and water ingress. Expander is tighten to the Deda's recommended 5Nm and stem bolts also 5Nm. May 15, 2024, 01:13:54 PM |
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Re: What are some of the unanimously loved frames?
For me the lightweight/aero VeloBuild VB-R-268 paired with Magene EXAR Ultra wheels has been awesome so far.
May 16, 2024, 02:19:53 PM |
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VeloBuild VB-R-066 Disc 2023 Road Bike Build
I recently completed a new build based on the VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc endurance(ish) road bike frame and the L-TWOO eR9 electronic groupset. I've only ridden it for 30km, and so far, so good, but this is no long term ride review, instead I'll focus on the build. In short, it met my expectations. Let's start with the summary: Total weight of the built bike, including pedals, bottle cages, out-front mount for computer/light, seatpost mount for light/radar, and bike pump mount: 7.85 kg, or 17.3 lbs. Total cost for all components, including shipping, sales tax, etc was AUD 3347, which based on today's exchange rate is USD 2225 or EUR 2055. The frame is size S in a matte black finish. I'm sure I'll regret choosing a matte finish, but for now it looks great. The frame weighed 885 g, with all bolts and attachments removed. The uncut fork was 359 g, and the seatpost was 203 g (400 mm). I didn't order a handlebar from VeloBuild. The frame also came with thru axles, rear derailleur hanger, front derailleur mount (bolted on, not riveted), cable exit rubber gaskets for both electronic and mechanical shifting, expander plug, top cap, headset bearings, seatpost bung and cover, crank scuff plate, and a headset cover for using a non-integrated stem and handlebar. The headset ring and cover wasn't deep enough to reach the top bearing, which perhaps could be fixed with some headset spacers, but I used a Ritchey upper headset instead. The extra rear derailleur hanger I had ordered didn't come in the box, so I contacted Chris, and I got it in the mail a few weeks later. Frame and fork quality was ok - fine - about what I expected from VeloBuild after following this forum for some time. The frame had some sharp edges around the headtube and bottom bracket shell, but otherwise it was quite smooth. I noticed some pitting inside the fork steerer and in the lower bearing seat in the headtube, but that was all the pitting I could see. There was some paint overspray on both the brake caliper mounting holes, in particular on the fork - not a surprise. I faced these myself using an IceToolz "Shuriken" Disc Mount Facing Tool #E272 (https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-disc-mount-facing-tool-shuriken-e272/a9232) that I had ordered in advance. I didn't have a bolt with a nut that was long and thin enough for clamping the tool so I could face the rear caliper mounts, but I was able to solve it by using one of the long caliper mounting bolts and the L-TWOO adapter plate (see photo). I think the facing helped - aligning the calipers at the end to avoid brake rub was very straightforward. The lower entry point for the hydraulic brake hose on the fork required a little filing with a round file before I could push the hose through. Again, not a surprise, but a quick fix. I've never built a fully internally routed frame before, so I spent quite a bit of time pulling and pushing foam damper casing as far as I could into the downtube and chainstays. I even pulled the electronic power cables for the derailleurs through the foam damper casing in the chainstay and around the bottom bracket area. Enabling mechanics to use old gear cables to pull the hydraulic hoses through the frame and the foam damper casing is a great feature of the L-TWOO groupset. For the T47 bottom bracket, I installed a cheap Lingmai branded one from AliExpress with internal bearings for a 24mm crank spindle ("t47-24i"). I also ordered a ZTTO branded one as a backup, it was identical in both looks and weight (except the logo), so they're probably from the same factory. It threaded into the shell without any issue. I had an unused Elita One Carbon seatpost lying around, so I used that instead of the one supplied by VeloBuild. Both had a very snug fit in the seat tube, and I have had no slippage so far, using only carbon paste and torquing the bolt to 4 Nm. Installing the L-TWOO eR9 groupset went well, by following their user manual (https://oss.ltwoo.com/download/en/eRX_User-Manual_V2.6_EN.pdf), with a couple of exceptions - see below. The user manual refers to a "stability adjustment screw" at the back of the front derailleur, but my eR9 version didn't have this. Related to the front derailleur, I added a chain catcher for peace of mind, but so far I haven't had a dropped chain. I'm running the groupset as 2x11, with 50/34T chainrings and a 11-32T cassette. For chain sizing, I followed the Park Tool instructions (https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing), which resulted in a slightly shorter chain than by following L-TWOO's method. I figured since there's no clutch, and the rear derailleur cage spring is weak according to some reports, it was better to make the chain shorter rather than longer, for improved tension. To reach the mounting bolt for the shifters, I folded both the front and the rear of the hoods, and inserted the ball-end of an Allen key from the front. Make sure you have a high quality Allen key for this! For bleeding the brakes, I followed the method in the manual of pushing mineral oil from the caliper to a funnel on the levers. I didn't do the extra step of opening the vent hole. However, after the first shake-down ride on a bumpy road, I did another quick lever bleed (funnel on the lever, brake pads left in the calipers, pump the levers). I got some more air bubbles out then, and I now have great brake feel from the levers. Components:
May 22, 2024, 08:12:25 AM |
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Re: Looking for a gravel frame closely similar to the Specialized Crux
The new Ican Gaero 2024 seems like it may be worth a look
May 25, 2024, 03:20:53 PM |
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