See likes

See likes given/taken


Posts you liked

Pages: [1]
Post info No. of Likes
Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame Of course it's possible if the groupset itself is not damaged. With rare high end exceptions where mechanical groupsets can't be installed on some frames, it should be just a straight swap with the exception of new brake hoses and fittings. A few other compatibilities to look out for would be clearance for tire, chainrings, disc rotors but everything is probably fine
By the way the UCI certification is completely worthless and nothing but marketing if you don't race in UCI events. Not indicative of quality in any way
May 22, 2024, 04:34:08 AM 		1
Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame So the biggest issue when selecting a new frame is minimizing the number of new components you need to buy. You definitely need to plan on getting new brake hoses, brake barbs and olives, cable housing and cables that you can cut to match the new cable routing. Pretty much in every case you need new bottom bracket bearings since it’s easier to just buy new ones than try to extract your old ones. You also are going to have issues with the integrated cable routing on these newer Chiner frames. Your defy has semi internal, which means your stem won’t be compatible. So you’ll need a new stem to match the integrated cable routing, or you can buy an integrated handlebar. Many of these frames come with a handlebar or stem that matches that bikes routing,  so that’s something worth paying attention to.

You will also need some specialized tools if you don’t already have them. Cable housing cutters, tools to remove the cassette and disc brake lock rings (if you have center lock discs), and a tool for your new bottom bracket—depending on which standard your new frame has. Also a bleed kit for your brake swap.

That’s pretty much everything I can think of off the top of my head
May 22, 2024, 07:35:10 AM 		1
VeloBuild VB-R-066 Disc 2023 Road Bike Build I recently completed a new build based on the VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc endurance(ish) road bike frame and the L-TWOO eR9 electronic groupset.

I've only ridden it for 30km, and so far, so good, but this is no long term ride review, instead I'll focus on the build. In short, it met my expectations.

Let's start with the summary: Total weight of the built bike, including pedals, bottle cages, out-front mount for computer/light, seatpost mount for light/radar, and bike pump mount: 7.85 kg, or 17.3 lbs. Total cost for all components, including shipping, sales tax, etc was AUD 3347, which based on today's exchange rate is USD 2225 or EUR 2055.

The frame is size S in a matte black finish. I'm sure I'll regret choosing a matte finish, but for now it looks great. The frame weighed 885 g, with all bolts and attachments removed. The uncut fork was 359 g, and the seatpost was 203 g (400 mm). I didn't order a handlebar from VeloBuild.

The frame also came with thru axles, rear derailleur hanger, front derailleur mount (bolted on, not riveted), cable exit rubber gaskets for both electronic and mechanical shifting, expander plug, top cap, headset bearings, seatpost bung and cover, crank scuff plate, and a headset cover for using a non-integrated stem and handlebar. The headset ring and cover wasn't deep enough to reach the top bearing, which perhaps could be fixed with some headset spacers, but I used a Ritchey upper headset instead. The extra rear derailleur hanger I had ordered didn't come in the box, so I contacted Chris, and I got it in the mail a few weeks later.

Frame and fork quality was ok - fine - about what I expected from VeloBuild after following this forum for some time. The frame had some sharp edges around the headtube and bottom bracket shell, but otherwise it was quite smooth. I noticed some pitting inside the fork steerer and in the lower bearing seat in the headtube, but that was all the pitting I could see.

There was some paint overspray on both the brake caliper mounting holes, in particular on the fork - not a surprise. I faced these myself using an IceToolz "Shuriken" Disc Mount Facing Tool #E272 (https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-disc-mount-facing-tool-shuriken-e272/a9232) that I had ordered in advance. I didn't have a bolt with a nut that was long and thin enough for clamping the tool so I could face the rear caliper mounts, but I was able to solve it by using one of the long caliper mounting bolts and the L-TWOO adapter plate (see photo). I think the facing helped - aligning the calipers at the end to avoid brake rub was very straightforward.

The lower entry point for the hydraulic brake hose on the fork required a little filing with a round file before I could push the hose through. Again, not a surprise, but a quick fix.

I've never built a fully internally routed frame before, so I spent quite a bit of time pulling and pushing foam damper casing as far as I could into the downtube and chainstays. I even pulled the electronic power cables for the derailleurs through the foam damper casing in the chainstay and around the bottom bracket area. Enabling mechanics to use old gear cables to pull the hydraulic hoses through the frame and the foam damper casing is a great feature of the L-TWOO groupset.

For the T47 bottom bracket, I installed a cheap Lingmai branded one from AliExpress with internal bearings for a 24mm crank spindle ("t47-24i"). I also ordered a ZTTO branded one as a backup, it was identical in both looks and weight (except the logo), so they're probably from the same factory. It threaded into the shell without any issue.

I had an unused Elita One Carbon seatpost lying around, so I used that instead of the one supplied by VeloBuild. Both had a very snug fit in the seat tube, and I have had no slippage so far, using only carbon paste and torquing the bolt to 4 Nm.

Installing the L-TWOO eR9 groupset went well, by following their user manual (https://oss.ltwoo.com/download/en/eRX_User-Manual_V2.6_EN.pdf), with a couple of exceptions - see below.

The user manual refers to a "stability adjustment screw" at the back of the front derailleur, but my eR9 version didn't have this. Related to the front derailleur, I added a chain catcher for peace of mind, but so far I haven't had a dropped chain. I'm running the groupset as 2x11, with 50/34T chainrings and a 11-32T cassette.

For chain sizing, I followed the Park Tool instructions (https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing), which resulted in a slightly shorter chain than by following L-TWOO's method. I figured since there's no clutch, and the rear derailleur cage spring is weak according to some reports, it was better to make the chain shorter rather than longer, for improved tension.

To reach the mounting bolt for the shifters, I folded both the front and the rear of the hoods, and inserted the ball-end of an Allen key from the front. Make sure you have a high quality Allen key for this!

For bleeding the brakes, I followed the method in the manual of pushing mineral oil from the caliper to a funnel on the levers. I didn't do the extra step of opening the vent hole. However, after the first shake-down ride on a bumpy road, I did another quick lever bleed (funnel on the lever, brake pads left in the calipers, pump the levers). I got some more air bubbles out then, and I now have great brake feel from the levers.

Components:
Tools purchased for this build:
May 22, 2024, 08:12:25 AM 		1
Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame
Quote from: alfiomotrambo on May 22, 2024, 04:23:21 AM
I am considering either an ICAN A22 (I love the black color) or an ELVES Avari Pro. The ELVES is UCI approved, unlike the ICAN.

the ican is quite old with recommended 25/28C tyres. That's very much not future proof.
the elves is surprisingly heavy (baby size 990g) and maxes out at 30C.

Have a look at sp cycle SP-R025-SL - you can get it for cheaper than what the website says. SP cycle = Tideace = haidelibicycle.com = disai. So if you email all of them you'll get the best deal.
SP Cycle has several models you may like.
Lightcarbon has a model or 2 you'll like
I really like my long teng 268.
Velobuild is now consistently making nice frames, the 268 is proving very popular.
Given the elves look like an endurance bike, the yishun R1018 may be good for you - super light, monocoque -.

I would never buy an ican nor an elves myself :)

Re. tools, have a look at a few bike builds video on YT. you'll quickly notice what tools you need.

May 22, 2024, 09:24:50 AM 		1
Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame I've transferred components multiple times to different frames. You'll most likely run into issues, spilt hydraulic fluid and questioning your life decisions. At that point go to bed and start fresh the next morning! The bike building skills you'll develop will rival all but the most old school LBS mechanics. Nowadays, I feel I can tune any bike into perfection. Don't be shy and feel free to ask questions!
May 22, 2024, 09:36:02 AM 		1