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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
I'm really proud to show you my latest build: Frame: Velobuild 268 size 54, color: Ice break red fade to black Bar/stem: Velobuild integrated 110/420 mm Saddle: RXL Carbon saddle Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8170, 50/34 - 11-30. 172,5 mm Wheels: Farsport Feder 45 mm 28 mm external Tyres: Continental Ultra Sport III 700x28 mm Tubes: RideNow TPU 36g Weight 7,3 kg with Garmin support and bottle cages, w/o pedals. I am very happy with the result, considering that this is my first assembly of a bicycle with an electronic groupset and hydraulic brakes. I didn't have any particular problems during assembly, apart from a little worry when cutting the brake lines to length. I covered 120+ km over the weekend and everything went smoothly: the bike responds very well to stress and is stiffer than my VB 168. October 14, 2024, 02:44:59 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars. I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy. It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue. Advise me please, my roadie elders. October 28, 2024, 03:38:01 PM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Obviously, you can't do it without a bike stand, and even then, you'll probably need tools like a routing kit (5 bucks), fine picks and files (ditto). My method Ive developed always works and I pass 4 cable through in less than an hour with really no equipment. I begin by shoving the cable through from the back of the bike and keep jamming the cable in until it shows up out the headset. Now for the handlebars just go ahead and jam the cable in and keep jamming until they appear near the hole, I then use tweezers to extract the cable. You should prebend the cable in the arc you need it to make once its inserted. All that jamming may have mangled the tip of the cable so go ahead and trim it. Not even kidding this is foolproof and doesnt do a bit of damage to frame or bars October 29, 2024, 01:29:31 PM |
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