Yes, I had to add a spacer ring of about 2.5 millimeters under the upper bearing cap.

Regarding your frame that shipped via China Post & USPS, what did the tracking history look like?  Were there large gaps between entries?  What was the total days in transit?  Thank you!

No fancy metallic colors?

My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black

6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.

Kinda pointless, the piston diameters are so much smaller you're unlikely to end up with a meaningfull braking power increase while intoducing the possibility of uneven piston movements and just extra points of failure in general. And since they're in the business of ripping off Hope, I would be wary of these, considering the issues hope RX4 had

It has the necessary holes, they sell the complete bike with DI2

Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!

Thank you!
Nothe saddle does not have a cut out.
I will check if I can find an allen key super short

First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good

So far so good

The AWST frame is exactly what I've been looking for. I've skimmed through this thread and seen a few complete builds with weights under 10kg. Are there any posts that break out the weight of each part(s), like wheels - x brand/ model at x grams? I've put together a list of parts and calculated out to 10.5kg with mostly lightweight parts (carbon cranks, wheels, bar, etc...), so I'm trying to see how y'all have dropped that extra kilo. Thanks for the help!