Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.

Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)

keep in mind that he's running schwalbe G-One 38 width tires so they probably measure 36 wide at best real world unless he's running some very wide internal rim width. i don't think i've seen a wide schwalbe gravel tire (>35) come close to its stated width yet, they all tend to be 2-4mm under the stated width.

fortunately we have some pics in this thread of real world 35mm and 38mm width (regardless of what the tire says on its sidewall) to get an idea of how tight the clearances are.

not keen on the head tube cable / hose entry point but solid geometry styled after specialized geo by the looks of it. be interested to see if 30c is max tire or just recommended and what could be squeezed in there?

Having owned the previous Allez Sprint in rim brake, I'm not exactly expecting an identical ride feeling. And while I like my 177, at the end of the day I live in a flat city where being aero is king. Both in optimizing your position on the bike and your frame/wheel setup. On my weekly club rides we are regularly hitting speeds on the flats around 35mph/56kph. Yikes

I had an original allez sprint rim brake also. it was a cracking bike. I ultimately sold it when i got a chance to buy a madone slr for a price i couldn't pass up. the madone is much more comfortable, there's no doubt about that, but i'd much rather take the allez sprint into an actual sprint. it has some serious get up and go.

i'm intrigued to see what you think about the 168 after having the knowledge of the allez sprint too.

just curious, is anyone running this as a gravel bike? The 1056 appeals to me as a frame that could double up as a road or gravel bike (perhaps with 2 sets of wheels), and I was wondering if I'm correct in this assessment.

like everything else with gravel it really depends on what gravel regularly is where you ride and what is your road / gravel mix? if you ride mostly hard pack, bit of washboard, some ruts etc. (basically the strada bianchi) you will be just fine. i can happily ride this even on a madone with 28's. i don't necessarily recommend (on a madone!) it but it's doable. 32c or better yet maxing out to 35c would be ideal if riding the 1056.

single track, roots, mud, lots of loose rock etc. is a whole other story.

A bit blasphemous to put the logo on but i pondered it and ultimately decided i don't care! lol

the bike is fantastic. front fork is a fox 32 stepcast performance elite. rear shock is a fox re:aktiv from a trek top fuel. both were new take off parts. i think my only gripe with the bike is the cable routing for the rear shock lockout - i ended up using a flexible noodle like you use for cantilever brakes to mitigate the ridiculously tight angle from the access hole to the inlet of the shock. still not entirely happy with that solution but it works perfectly (for now...)

the wheels are LC carbon rims with graphene built on dt swiss 350 hubs. LC's one piece bar/stem combo and a sram eagle GX build kit with an XX1 chain. final weight as shown is 23 lbs on the nose. definitely some room for weight saving in there with tire and crank choice but i'm content at that weight.

thanks for the quick response!

i was able to disassemble the rear triangle. as you noted the upper links and upper through bolt were fairly easy to remove once i got the system figured out. the lower through bolt i could only remove by inserting a long 8mm allen key into it (from the threaded side) and lightly tapping it out with a rubber mallet. the lower bearing on the non-drive side is a bit notchy which i'm not thrilled about. it is well packed with grease. the seals say enduro but i have my doubts on that!

i absolutely love the british racing green project that dangerholm did so i am considering either copying that or doing a candy version and using the base metallic silver for lettering and logos. my fork and one piece handlebar/stem will also be painted to match.

Does anyone knows how long the shipping time takes? My frame is send (first update at 5h of April) to The Netherlands bij EMS. Light Carbon told me that it would take 3 to 4 weeks before I would recieve the frame. Any experience with this?

I ordered both frame and wheels. wheels were sent first, they took 18 days to arrive (in the US) from date of first shipping notice from LC. my frame shipped on 4/15 and I hope to receive it in early May - it has already been sent from Hong Kong to the US so just waiting for it to hit customs now.

I need some help please. I'm trying to take my lcfs911 apart to get it painted.
Im able to get the trunnion bolts apart, no problem. However, bit the lower pivots as well as the upper pivots are stuck. The bolt says 10nm and I'm struggling to lever more power on them.
To be more precise, both the upper and lower pivots, I can unscrew the nut, but the bolt remains stuck.
Have any of you dealt with this and how did you solve it? I'm thinking of heading the bolt as I assume there's some kind of loctite applied.

10 Nm is the recommended maximum tightening torque to be applied when assembling the frame. To disassemble it may require more force to break free the thread locking compound. Unfortunately it's not unusual for the frame to come from the factory with the suspension pivot bolts torqued significantly higher than they should be.

All told, disassemble the suspension pivot bolts with a regular ratcheting wrench that you can get sufficient torque on to break the thread lock. If the nuts are off you should be able to push out the bolts by hand or very lightly tap them out with a rubber mallet and punch.

Reassemble the suspension pivot bolts with a torque wrench set to 10 Nm and fresh thread lock on the bolt threads.