Hello!
These for Cube and Radon seem the same, although I can't be 100% sure if they perfectly fit, I'm just guided by the photos, I haven't checked:

                            https://www.bike-discount.de/en/cube-derailleur-hanger-2090-axh-short

                            https://www.bike-discount.de/en/radon-derailleur-hanger-10240-axh-short

In these Cube and Radon hangers, the piece with the thread for the thru-axle has a finer thread pitch (1mm instead of 1.5mm), so you would have to install the old one, or else you would have to install an X-12 thru-axle (which has 1mm thread pitch) with a flat seat (not tapered) at the other end of the axle, so that it rests correctly on the frame.

Beware!
There are these other that seems the same, but they are not:

                            https://www.bike-discount.de/en/cube-mtb/rr-x12-standard-derailleur-hanger

                            https://www.bike-discount.de/en/radon-derailleur-hanger-8651

This one is a little longer (it says "standard" instead of "short" version) and the derailleur may be too far away and may not work well, especially with 12-speed transmissions, for which the short version is indicated.

   Beautiful machines you have, men!

   Scourge: I'm so glad you found the problem and it was so easy and cheap to fix! I don't know what to tell you about the torque settings of that pivot, sorry.

If you see that some screws are loosening with the use of the bike, it occurs to me that maybe you can put a little threadlocker on the threads; But be careful! If you do, use the low strength type, and be very careful to add very very little, just a droplet. If you don't do this you may break the threads or screw heads when you try to remove them or it may be impossible to remove them.

   Anyway I'm not sure if it's convenient or not to use the treadlocker in this case... maybe I'm giving bad advice, especially considering that the quality of the aluminum and the threads may not be NASA approved... Better consult a good bike mechanic who has experience on this, I don't want to be responsible for your beautiful bike being damaged

   Hello.

   Scourge, sounds like two little noises at once to me... I don't know. I'd say it could be some lateral play or space between the lower link and either the front or rear triangle. You may have a washer misplaced, missing or that they do not fill the space sufficiently. Disassemble and go checking joint by joint moving it energetically in all directions.

   The joint of the lower link with the rear triangle must be in this order from the inside (where the wheel is housed) to the outside:

                      · Screw head - lower link with its bearing installed - washer - rear triangle; so on both sides.

   At the joint with the front triangle make sure you have a washer on each side between the lower link and the frame, resting on the inner race of each bearing.

   It could also be the junction of the front triangle with the upper link; here it must be placed from the outside to the inside in this order:

                       · Screw head - upper link with its bearing installed - shaped washer with the narrow part facing the bearing (this
                        narrow part rests on the inner race of the bearing) - front triangle; also the same on both sides.

   Another option is that the bushings of the the shock are not the correct size and leave some space.

   If everything is placed correctly but there is some play somewhere, you should add some thin washers that fill the space, but without being tight, so as not to block free movement or force anything.

I hope I explained well.

Great threeathan !! Looks good, thank you.
I need advice: I'm looking rear shocks to buy and start building the bike. I'm thinking in the Super Deluxe Ultimate, but I'm not sure if the normal version (with medium rebound and medium compression) or a specific version for Santa Cruz (with low rebound and low compression) will be better. I don't know if the suspension geometry of our frame is exactly the same as the Hightower or has different kinematics. Can anyone shed light on this matter? Weight 80kg (176Lb) without clothing.

The bearing included with the Cane Creek IS42/28.6 upper headset is 41.8mm, exactly the same measurement as the headset bearing supplied with the frame:

I can confirm that the Cane Creek spacer + 6mm with the Fox 36 Grip2 (latest version) and the Cane Creek 110 Hellbender headset lower bearing, on a size L frame it's ok: 2mm of clearance, perfect for those who want to minimize the change from the original angles

Warning for those planning to use the Fox 36 Grip2 (current version): With the Cane Creek 110 Hellbender headset lower bearing and the Cane Creek spacer + 3mm, the adjustment dial of the fork still rubs a bit with the frame (size L). I'm going to change it for the + 6mm spacer, which will already give enough space, I hope.

The inside of my bottom bracket hole looks the same, it will be normal I guess.

Has anyone thought of the possibility of making a small hole to drain the water that can enter and accumulate in the lower part of the frame? I have seen it in other frames, but I do not know if it is really convenient or not ...

I checked out the included headset bearing and it looks like it is a 45/45, whereas the Cane Creek crown race is a 36 degree seat. The included headset bearing doesn't seat well. The lower bearing will need to be changed to a 36/45 52mm bearing to make it work correctly. Or you could run a Cane Creek headset.

Thanks slo, is what it seemed looking at the photos of the spacer, that the angle was different. It's true... I didn't realize it!, being an integrated steering, don't need the complete headset, just the lower bearing