I think that it would be because the spider itself comes back slightly over the BB shell.

This is probably only an issue on some BB386 and T47 frames, but out of caution I assume they've said that it's generally not compatible.

Yes, I have no issues on my frame with T47 internal BB, but clearance is minimal, so I expect some frames would be problematic: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.msg60729.html#msg60729

Where did you buy this? I see only b2b offers following that link? Would need sale to Germany.

I ordered it from TradeINN/BikeINN (Spain): https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/icetoolz-disc-brake-caliper-hole-cutter/139125461/p

It didn't take long for the L-TWOO eR9 groupset to cause drama. I posted details on the issue and the fix in the eRX/eR9 thread: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4242.msg60363.html#msg60363

For me, it's actually quite the opposite. I have easier time bleeding the calipers, especially with the additional air port. I very much prefer L-Twoo's system compared to previous 11 speed Shimano. I haven't tried the new 12 speed system from Shimano, but I'd guess it's similar.

Agree, I've bled both Shimano 11-speed 105 (R7020/R7070) and L-TWOO eR9. I found L-TWOO to be easier, the threaded bleed port on the calipers results in less mess.

I recently completed a new build based on the VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc endurance(ish) road bike frame and the L-TWOO eR9 electronic groupset.

I've only ridden it for 30km, and so far, so good, but this is no long term ride review, instead I'll focus on the build. In short, it met my expectations.

Let's start with the summary: Total weight of the built bike, including pedals, bottle cages, out-front mount for computer/light, seatpost mount for light/radar, and bike pump mount: 7.85 kg, or 17.3 lbs. Total cost for all components, including shipping, sales tax, etc was AUD 3347, which based on today's exchange rate is USD 2225 or EUR 2055.

The frame is size S in a matte black finish. I'm sure I'll regret choosing a matte finish, but for now it looks great. The frame weighed 885 g, with all bolts and attachments removed. The uncut fork was 359 g, and the seatpost was 203 g (400 mm). I didn't order a handlebar from VeloBuild.

The frame also came with thru axles, rear derailleur hanger, front derailleur mount (bolted on, not riveted), cable exit rubber gaskets for both electronic and mechanical shifting, expander plug, top cap, headset bearings, seatpost bung and cover, crank scuff plate, and a headset cover for using a non-integrated stem and handlebar. The headset ring and cover wasn't deep enough to reach the top bearing, which perhaps could be fixed with some headset spacers, but I used a Ritchey upper headset instead. The extra rear derailleur hanger I had ordered didn't come in the box, so I contacted Chris, and I got it in the mail a few weeks later.

Frame and fork quality was ok - fine - about what I expected from VeloBuild after following this forum for some time. The frame had some sharp edges around the headtube and bottom bracket shell, but otherwise it was quite smooth. I noticed some pitting inside the fork steerer and in the lower bearing seat in the headtube, but that was all the pitting I could see.

There was some paint overspray on both the brake caliper mounting holes, in particular on the fork - not a surprise. I faced these myself using an IceToolz "Shuriken" Disc Mount Facing Tool #E272 (https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-disc-mount-facing-tool-shuriken-e272/a9232) that I had ordered in advance. I didn't have a bolt with a nut that was long and thin enough for clamping the tool so I could face the rear caliper mounts, but I was able to solve it by using one of the long caliper mounting bolts and the L-TWOO adapter plate (see photo). I think the facing helped - aligning the calipers at the end to avoid brake rub was very straightforward.

The lower entry point for the hydraulic brake hose on the fork required a little filing with a round file before I could push the hose through. Again, not a surprise, but a quick fix.

I've never built a fully internally routed frame before, so I spent quite a bit of time pulling and pushing foam damper casing as far as I could into the downtube and chainstays. I even pulled the electronic power cables for the derailleurs through the foam damper casing in the chainstay and around the bottom bracket area. Enabling mechanics to use old gear cables to pull the hydraulic hoses through the frame and the foam damper casing is a great feature of the L-TWOO groupset.

For the T47 bottom bracket, I installed a cheap Lingmai branded one from AliExpress with internal bearings for a 24mm crank spindle ("t47-24i"). I also ordered a ZTTO branded one as a backup, it was identical in both looks and weight (except the logo), so they're probably from the same factory. It threaded into the shell without any issue.

I had an unused Elita One Carbon seatpost lying around, so I used that instead of the one supplied by VeloBuild. Both had a very snug fit in the seat tube, and I have had no slippage so far, using only carbon paste and torquing the bolt to 4 Nm.

Installing the L-TWOO eR9 groupset went well, by following their user manual (https://oss.ltwoo.com/download/en/eRX_User-Manual_V2.6_EN.pdf), with a couple of exceptions - see below.

The user manual refers to a "stability adjustment screw" at the back of the front derailleur, but my eR9 version didn't have this. Related to the front derailleur, I added a chain catcher for peace of mind, but so far I haven't had a dropped chain. I'm running the groupset as 2x11, with 50/34T chainrings and a 11-32T cassette.

For chain sizing, I followed the Park Tool instructions (https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing), which resulted in a slightly shorter chain than by following L-TWOO's method. I figured since there's no clutch, and the rear derailleur cage spring is weak according to some reports, it was better to make the chain shorter rather than longer, for improved tension.

To reach the mounting bolt for the shifters, I folded both the front and the rear of the hoods, and inserted the ball-end of an Allen key from the front. Make sure you have a high quality Allen key for this!

For bleeding the brakes, I followed the method in the manual of pushing mineral oil from the caliper to a funnel on the levers. I didn't do the extra step of opening the vent hole. However, after the first shake-down ride on a bumpy road, I did another quick lever bleed (funnel on the lever, brake pads left in the calipers, pump the levers). I got some more air bubbles out then, and I now have great brake feel from the levers.

Components:

• Frame: VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc Road frame. Size S, matte black. https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2023-vb-r-066-carbon-fiber-endurance-road-racing-bike-frame-disc-version
• Groupset: L-TWOO eR9. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005877073008.html
• Wheels: EliteWheels Edge Disc, 40mm, steel bearings, HG freehub. 1301 g without rim tape. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004767705476.html
• Crankset: Magene P505 Base power meter crankset, 170mm crank arms. 50/34T Magene chainrings. 783 g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html
• Pedals: Exustar E-PR4ST, Look Keo compatible. My favourite road pedals, better than anything from Look IMO. 273 g. https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/exustar-e-pr4-cr-mo-pedals/139897505/p
• Tyres: Continental GP 5000 Cream 28mm (not tubeless)
• Inner tubes: Offbondage (!) TPU tubes, the new version with replaceable valve cores. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006301489896.html
• Cassette: Shimano Ultegra CS-R8000 11-speed 11-32T. 292 g.
• Chain: Shimano CN-HG701 11-speed, immersion waxed
• Brake rotors: Shimano SM-RT70, 160mm front & rear.
• Saddle: Mixed 7D. 109 g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006324509623.html
• Handlebars: Prime Doyenne Lightweight, aluminium, 38cm. 218 g.
• Stem: Kalloy Uno aluminium, 7 degrees, 110 mm. 112 g.
• Headset: Ritchey Comp Cartridge 1.5" upper headset assembly. It came with the upper headset bearing, which I used in the build. For the lower headset bearing, I used one of the two that came with the frame. https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/ritchey-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6-steering-system/137710158/p
• Battery holder: PRO Di2 battery holder for 27.2mm seatpost
• Out front mount: XOSS Edge Mount. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006020402006.html
• Bar tape: PRO Sport Control, 2.5mm thick, but wrapped with loads of overlap for a cushy feeling.

Tools purchased for this build:

• Bleed kit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006460147651.html
• T47 bottom bracket tool for internal bearings and an oh-so-thin edge to grab on to (bring back press-fit I say): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006581207359.html
• IceToolz "Shuriken" Disc Mount Facing Tool #E272: https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-disc-mount-facing-tool-shuriken-e272/a9232

lol i'll make sure to put them on the bars first before doing any work. do you think they stretch enough for integrated aero bars?

I managed to remember putting them on for my second bike build. They're a tight fit on a round bar, you may get them to stretch enough for wide flat tops, but it'll be a bit of a struggle I expect.

Do you have version one or version two of the hoods? The early batches had sloppy hoods, the newer ones is tighter and feels more grippy than the original. I have two version of Empire 11s and the hoods on the newer ones feels much better.

These are their new version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003970724670.html there is no "graining" on the rubber, Gen 1 had the graining

My original Sensah hoods are smooth and without any grain, so I believe they're the new version. I wouldn't say they were a very sloppy fit, but towards the front they would slide forward and above the lip in the lever body itself, instead of being flush. I had the same experience both on a set of Team Pro brifters and on a set of Empire 11s brifters. I purchased both sets of brifters this year, from "SENSAH factory Official Store" on AliExpress

I have a Seaboard GR02. Been meaning to write up a longer review, but haven't got around to it yet.

In short, I'm happy with it. The main problem I had when building it was the non-standard front brake caliper mounting position. It's offset by 20mm, so set your flat mount adapter to 140mm for a 160mm disc. And if you have a 160mm-only caliper (Juin Tech), you'll need a 180mm disc - which the fork is rated for. Internal cable routing is only in the downtube and in the left fork 'leg', which makes it easy to cable - a feature in my book.

Got a size 50cm frame, which fits me well with a 110mm stem and short 70mm reach handlebars, I'm 174cm. Most bike brand size guides place me on a size M, but I'm more comfortable on smaller frames (S or S/M). I'm not all that flexible though, and I prefer a somewhat upright position.

Paintwork looks good to my untrained eyes, I have the Pearl White one. The only paint overspray was on the rear rack mounting points.