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Messages - PaxiH

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1
I asked Wendy to buy some extra headset spacers but postage is 39$  :o  anyone found any compatible spacers?

This set looks compatible: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQFEjbt

39$ for a few plastic spacers. What a bargain  ;D

2
Actually I tried it right now and it was working after a few attempts. Seems like the fit of the axle washer in the frame cut out is really tight.

3
I also have the problem. Now i lossen the rear axle 2-3 rotations and hit the non drive side rear stay once. Then i can unsrew the axle. The head/washer gets stuck in the carbon cutout.

Second problem is the water in the frame after a ride in the rain.
I will drill a hole under the BB to drain the water. Until now i drain the water with the rear derailleur hole. Last time it was 150ml of water. The water even damaged the BB bearings.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow.
I was also thinking that it must be something like the axle stucking in the carbon cut out. I think it is the same problem with my frame.

My frame have a tiny hole under the BB for water drainage.
Did your frame miss this hole?

4
Dunno I don’t see how it could be. But if you can unscrew it the rest of the way is through the wheel axel and that should be smooth bushing.

Yes, that is what I'm thinking too. I don't understand it to be honest. Maybe the fit on the non driver side for the head of the axle is to firm, so the axle head has gone into the carbon.
I really don't know ans don't understand why I can't tap it out.

5
Is it still in the thread? If it is not then the only way is brute force it out. Possibly the axle is bend?

No, it is not threaded anymore. I can even push the rear stays away from each other.

I've tried to hammer it with some Force. But the axle is not moving to the non drive side.

I think that if the axle is bend, I would face problems while riding?

6
Now I have a problem with my frame.

I wanted to give it a good clean after yesterday's ride. But I am not able to remove the back wheel.

The axle is kinda stuck somewhere. It is turning freely, the threads in the derailleur hanger are fine. The wheel itself is moving on the axle. But still I'm not able to remove the axle from the frame. Never hat such an issue.

I can reassemble it and everything is fine. Just can't get the axle out. I've even tried WD-40 and tapping the axle with a wooden stick and soft hammer.

Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?

7
I would definitely think about getting a brand name bottom bracket like wheels manufacturing.  The BB gets the brunt if the torque and you want it to have some longevity

I bought and assembled a cheap (13€) BB from Zitto from AliExpress. Thought about testing it and if it is bad replacing it with something more expensive.

My problem was, that the T47 BBs are pretty rare in the german shops and also very expensive.

So far the quality of the Zitto BB is seems great! The bearing felt good and the cranks are spinning very, very free and well. Also no play in the crank/BB so far.

So cheap must not be bad. But I only have like 300km on the bike yet.

8
is this the ferrari red LC offers? nevertheless looks great!

This is the Ferrari Red.

9
Ahahah I'll ask her tomorrow then about mine.
Still annoyed about having chosen the basic colour ahaha. In any case judging by the comments I should have painted it here in a local shop ahah.

Keep us updated

The paint look and quality in general is good and looks awesome. It is just the missing clear coat.

The best would be to clear coat it DIY when you have the possibility for that.

Or order as raw and get it to a local painter. But this will be mich more expensive. At least at my location.

I'm sure you'll still love the bike when it is build  :D

10
Hi everyone, I'm considering buying the LCR017 but still uncertain about the color, has anyone seen what white chameleon looks like in real life ?  (Chameleon 7207 on Lightcarbon website)

Same advice as dinorello. Get a chameleon color because of the clear coat and better paint protection because of that.

I've not seen the chameleon white yet.

11
Isn't that super scary? Not sure if I would feel safe 40mph downhill on  a frame I can flex with my fingers  ;D

It's not like you can flex it much but it is possible.
On the first kilometers I was riding a little bit careful because of that. Even if I've read that it is normal for many lightweight frames.
As the bike feels rock solid while riding it I now have no worries to ride at higher speeds.

12
This looks very nice!
Which color did you use for the 'red' parts of the frame?

Should be the Ferrari Red like on my Frameset.

13
I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:

- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork

thanks

Hope that helps.

Viewed from side:
Downtube: 50mm bottom, 45mm top, width 60-40mm (from downside)
Toptube: 20mm bottom,  top 30mm, width 30-50mm (from top side)
Seattube: 45 bottom, 45 top (only the upper area)

14
Product could've been so much better with three dollars of oversight and quality control.  Guess the consumer is the unpaid test pilot

Yes, that is bad. I can't believe that the missing hole was a mistake by the engineering. That would be really stupid to be honest. Maybe it was a mistake with the manufacturing. But who knows.

My bike still looks and feels amazing and I'm so far very happy with it. Maybe they'll improve the future manufactured frames. We'll see.

15
Maybe it has to do with the batches in which the frames were made. Maybe the first set of batches didn't have it and the most recent ones have it. It's the only logic I can find (supposing it's not frame size)

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too.

I reported the problem with the FD Hanger (with Shimano mechanical FD) to Wendy. She said that she give this information to their engineer. So maybe if they think it necessary, they'll make some changes here too.

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