Hi, here is my table of weight and price.
I would like to buy a 165x40 (or 42,5) SIDLuxe with remote, but I can't find it for sale... Or a DT Swiss 535 (all mountain) with "2 in 1" remote.
The bike will be around 11kg

I had many problems with Pressfit BB on my carbon MTBs. It is never perfectly aligned, the bearings wear quickly and there is play between the parts.
Even with expensive BB. I need to change it every 3 000 km average (depending on dirt / dust / weather conditions).
With BSA, I never had any issue, even with the cheapest BB. The "new" Threadfit is promising as well...

For SL, if i remember well carbonda told me that the fiber is different on some points. The frame is as stiff and reliable both ways. But fiber and manufacturing is more expensive on super light.

In the absence of putting a longer stem and making some changes later to lighten it ... so the "carbonda" remains.

Hi, very nice build.
What do you think of the X-Fusion shock ? Is there a remote ?
Your SUntour Aion 35 is 120mm travel ?


Did somebody tried to put a 27.5 x 2.8 tire rear ?
I ride it on my hardtail on very rocky / exposed trails, it feels amazing in some situations.

What do you mean by constant ?

"piggyback" do handles heat better => on long and rough downhills (or heavy / aggressive rider) "inline" shocks can heat and the damping is not constant.

Because of your last week's comments... I'm torn between a M or L size now... Thank you so very much !

So sorry 
The conclusion was : every rider will make different choice, depending on size, type of riding, habits...
My heart (and calculations) told me to choose a L. If yours told you to choose a M... just give it a try 

Did you ever tried a longer stem on a bike with slack angle? because IMO there is a lot of bro science about geos, most important thing on a bike which needs to climb efficient (anybike at some point) is the saddle position, if you shift your saddle forward you are going to have less weight on the rear wheel and also less traction.

Stem
Yes i did try different stems on my 65° HTA bike. When stem is longer than 60mm this is a very strange sensation et poor handling.

STA
I have a custom geo hardtail 76° STA / 65 HTA / 476 reach and a 73,5° STA / 69 HTA / 428 reach hardtail Orbea Alma. The Orbea Alma offers better traction on flat tracks but less traction on steep climbs, because the weight is too much backward. The best traction is offered when the saddle is verticaly aligned with the rear axle or a bit forward. On my Orbea Alma i feel like my weight is backward the axle (i am not sure if i am clear ). PS : the vertical and horizontal length between saddle and bars is exactly the same between all my bikes. The difference doesn't come from the positionning.

XCO/XCM or downcountry ?
I understand your need. You are trying to get the "best of both worlds". Downsizing and "modifying" a downcountry geo to fit XCO/XCM geometry (old or not) is probably a bad idea in my opinion (suspension feel with your ass at 73° instead of 77°, handling with longer stem...).

The reviews don't recommend the NS Synonym for its pedaling quality. If you are into XCO/XCM you will certainly find it lacks pure pedaling performance (vs Scott Spark and Orbea Oiz for example) and moreover you will not have the benefits of the downcountry geo because downsized + long stem. Instead of "the best of both worlds", maybe it will results in "the worst of both worlds".

My need is a mini enduro bike with the weight of a XC.
Your need is a pure XC that descends better.
Maybe you are right and you need a M with longer stem and saddle backward... let's give it a try if you are not afraid of being disappointed. I hope you'll enjoy it 

When i center the pictures on the rear bike axle, you can see that the geometry, wheelbase, angles, BB height etc. are very very different.
But saddle->handlebar length is the same => same "pedaling" position



The FM936 is a modern geometry, it should be riding hard, with short stem. Take a size L and downsize your stem 

Hi guys,

I found thist threat yeasterday and I I read the whole thing because I want to order this same frame, thanks for all that cool information .
My only thought is ,wich frame size would fit me better.? Comparing the geometry with my actual Scalpel Si in L, the carbonda frame is pretty big so I'm considering downsizing to M. What you guys think?
I am 1,83m tall and I usually have my saddle height at 77,5 cm (BB to top of the Saddle).
Anyone riding a M with more or less the same saddle height?

Thanks again and keep posting those cool bike pics!

Hi,

The reach is longer but the seat tube is steeper.
What you need to look at is the distance between saddle and handlebar (horizontaly and verticaly) to have a nice riding position.
I am 1,78m with 75cm BB to top of the saddle. With a L size and a 40mm stem (what i like to ride), I have the same horizontaly and verticaly position as my Orbea Alma size L with 60mm stem.

The main difference is that on steep uphill, with the Orbea Alma, I was seated "on the rear wheel". What means poor handling and struggling to keep the front wheel on the ground.
Conclusion : I suggest you take the Carbonda L size.

Does somebody know if a DVA Topaz would fit, with the double barrel ?
Wing says no, but he also says no for 42.5mm shock, non trunnion shock...