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Messages - FHS

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106
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Integrated Handlebar
« on: September 20, 2021, 04:30:44 PM »
Hi guys,

I've got the VeloBuild HB011 bar (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing-300) and am looking at getting the OG Evkin CM005S computer mount (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005002400491495.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.6.45fcccbey2vOGK)

Can anyone recommend if this should work out of the box or if any other parts (maybe spacers?) will be needed for the bar and computer mount to play nicely?

If anyone has other CM recommendations please feel free to drop them in here  :)

**EDIT** If anyone is interested, my 90/400 HB011 weighs in at 304g, and measures 390mm at the hoods and 400mm at the drops

Yeah, gonna need spacers for sure, and I don't even see the bolts needed to mount it to the bars on the package list. I'm sure it has to come with both or it's unusable out of the box. Can you contact the vendor to ask?

107
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: September 16, 2021, 04:34:53 PM »
Hi! I'm new here. I have ordered this frame from velobuild, and it is going to arrive any day. My question is for any of you guys who did a sram etap axs build. What bottom bracket did you use? I am reading that bb86 frames mixed with dub crankset is less than optimal do to the necessity of using thinner bearings. I'm looking at the token ninja vs the sram dub. Any negative experience with the dub cranksets in this frame? Thanks

Hi! Grats!

I have a pressfit Shimano on my frame, not a Velobuild, but the same BB specs for all intents and purposes I imagine. I installed a DUB BB for my Quarq crankset. I believe its the same as SRAM Force. No problems, no creaking, shifts just like the Integra crankset it replaced. Probably has around 2000 miles on it now.

108
I'm really curious to hear about how it rides and if how it compares to other frames.

109
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 28, 2021, 07:04:40 PM »
Now I'm wondering if the FSA ACR stem will work with the Carbonda integrated headset and spacers. I have those coming with the frame and if the stem will work with the Carbonda spacers, I may choose to use them.

Here's the FSA ACR headset cover. I'm assuming any compatible stem is gonna have the matching holes to help lock the stem in place. The second picture is the bottom of the cover. The lock ring definitely has the holes, but it works fine with a generic headset cover without the pins.

If your headset cover has pins that dont match the ACR cover's pins. It might be problematic.


110
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 28, 2021, 11:33:27 AM »
The FSA ACR ships with *no* spacers. They have to be purchased seperately. The headset cover that ships with the headset is only compatible with their spacers, which are all only compatible with stems and bars compatible with the FSA ACR system. No worries though, the headset and lock ring will work perfectly well with any headset cover.

Just to clarify your stem height. My experience has been that the stem cannot be cut so that the top of the expander plug is flush with the bottom of the top cover. The entire system needs space above the expander plug for the stem to be compressed by the top cover bolt to load the headset.

Othey than that, I agree with fattyrice. Everything about the FSA ACR just works more reliably than the generic headset. Yoy may still have to be ready to make adjustments to the headset stack height, but that's trivial and is probably goibg to be true for any headset you choose to usr.

111
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TanTan TT-X21 frame
« on: August 27, 2021, 01:59:10 PM »
Good site. I would have loved to have gone SRAM at the outset, but availability was a serious issue back then. Now, I'm just heading down the Shimano upgrade path. Thanks again!

112
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TanTan TT-X21 frame
« on: August 27, 2021, 12:25:12 PM »
Hi All,

I'm seriously considering going Shimano Di2. I have 0 experience with Di2 a part from a couple of general information videos. My understanding is that ill need to install a couple of junction boxes, a battery, and some cables, along with the shifters and derailleurs.

My understanding is that the TT X21 is already set up to run Di2 and that the front junction box has the mount in the downtube. Is that correct? Where would the other components, the battery and the second junction box go?

Am I missing anything? Any tips?

Thanks!

113
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 26, 2021, 09:41:56 AM »
I'm not sure why it would loosen either. I do my own weekly maintenance so I probably remove my rear wheel more than a lot. Never had any problems with that piece. I did lose the little screw that keeps the through axle piece on the front fork though. My guess would be road vibration. I check the front piece all the time now, guess I'll add the rear derailleur mount to my weekly checks.

114
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: August 25, 2021, 12:46:42 PM »
Great update Niels, thanks!

115
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 23, 2021, 01:50:04 PM »
you can test that very quickly, the Ahead cap never comes into contact with the expander



 Is your expander that far down the steerer tube below your spacers? Is the top of your steerer tube above the top of your stem? How long is your top cap bolt?

116
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 23, 2021, 11:31:29 AM »
Yeah, the steps are easy, but the devil is in the details. Things to watch for.

1. Steerer tube length. You have to cut the tube at least a few millimeters below where the bottom of your top cover is going to sit. They say a couple of millimeters below the top cover, but it really does depend on the depth of your top cover. If you don't have enough room under the top cover, you can't load the headset because the top cover will bottom out against the top of the compression plug. In the video, I seriously doubt he cut the tube short enough.

2. Compression plug slippage. This one killed me. I couldn't get the stock compression plug to stop slipping. The FSA plug works brilliantly.

3. Bearing stack height and crown race stack heights. This is where the micro spacers come in. There are so many different stack heights for the bearings and crown races, I don't know how it's possible to have an exact match for a frame.


117
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Integrated Handlebar
« on: August 23, 2021, 10:31:53 AM »
I can't remember who exactly I emailed. I filled out their contact form on their website and somebody responded, then referred me to one of their service/tech/sales guys. Communication was terrible once it went to the service/tech/sales.

The Cable Box system is designed to run the cables and brake lines through the handlebars and through a hole in the back, then through the stem, then down the front of the steerer and into the head tube, just like the FSA ACR system. Their super expensive integrated handlebars is basically hollow through the bars and stem. Their separated handlebar/stem combos come in different flavors of alloy and carbon fiber, but they all work the same way. Some of the Chinese manufactures like ICAN used to ship frames with the ACR FSA system. I'm sure they would work with the Token, but there wouldn't be a reason to move away from the FSA ACR in the first place.

I think the system will work with the generic Chinese integrated handlebars. The magic is in that sweet compression ring that separates the cables and brake lines. The only question would be if there is enough space down the from of the Chinese stems for the lines and cables to separate. I seriously doubt the Token Spacers would work with a generic Chinese integrated handlebar and headset cover. That was the issue. The point being, Token didn't even give me a chance to try the headset bearings and compression ring with the Chinese headset cover and spacers.

FSA, on the other hand, was super helpful. I'm running an FSA ACR headset with my generic Chinese handlebars/spacers/Headset cover. Works great.

118
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Integrated Handlebar
« on: August 23, 2021, 08:43:56 AM »
After checking with frame brand, they told me that I could use the Token Cable Box also as reference, it means. ACR will work with the ICH system but it looks weird (ACR stems are larger than spacers I already have at ICH) and Token Cable Box is much more similar to ICH.

Are you thinking about going with the entire Handlebar/Stem/Headset set-up for the Token Box?

I went back and forth with those guys for over a month. I wanted to just try to see if I could get the headset to work with everything that came with my frame, they said it wouldn't work, and basically would not sell me just their headset. Fine I said, I'll put in and order for the entire set-up, told them which compatible handlebar and stem I wanted to go with, but they never got back to me about how I was actually supposed to purchase it.

Maybe if I had chose their $600 handlebars...

119
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 22, 2021, 01:43:59 PM »
Hmm, never seen a piece like that. Looks like a thick micro spacer. Where it is now, it looks like it will it will interfere with your internal cablelibg through the head tube.

120
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Ogevkin frame suggestion
« on: August 19, 2021, 05:46:26 PM »
+1

Their handlebars are great. I think I'd give one of their frames a go if they had something I was interested in.

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