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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: August 18, 2021, 10:16:37 PM »
I have it liter....
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122
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: August 18, 2021, 02:35:52 PM »
Yeah, I know the piece you referring to. I don't know that it's sold separately from the hanger, but my replacement came with bothe pieces. Like I said, I have old bent hanger but the other piece is undamaged, if you just want to PM me.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: August 18, 2021, 12:20:41 PM »
You can try TanTan, just ask for a derailleur hanger for the TT X-21. I have my old one that I bent. That piece is fine though if you want to PM me.
124
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 13, 2021, 11:15:28 AM »
I would agree that your headset preload doesn't have to be dialed in for a bike fitting. If the headset is too loose, however, it can rock back and forth a good few centimeters which could possible throw off your fitting. If you don't have any major issues with your frame or headset stack height, setting a correct preload is pretty trivial. I would hate to find out that there are issues, though, at the same time I'm trying to get my bike professionally fit.
Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?
Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?
125
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 13, 2021, 10:58:49 AM »
This is what I'm using now. Never had a problem with it.
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32977481818.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.16.15325a175LSHTl
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32977481818.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.16.15325a175LSHTl
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 13, 2021, 08:20:46 AM »
Wow, it looks like the stem is twisting, or, even like the stem hasn't been tightened. Never seen anything like that from the couple of Chinese integrated handlebars I've used.
127
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: ICAN triaero A9
« on: August 12, 2021, 10:41:18 AM »
I've never worked with SRAM, but does the front caliper have different adapters for different fork setups?
128
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 11, 2021, 02:16:36 PM »
I use Finish Line Premium for everything that requires grease. It's carbon fiber safe for sure. If you are lubing anything for installation near your brake discs, be super careful not to get even a bit on the discs. They will squeal like crazy, cleaning them is a pain, you'll have to replace your pads, and you'll hate life in general.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about your headset bearings at all, other than to seat them with grease and do your best to keep water and grime out of the headset.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about your headset bearings at all, other than to seat them with grease and do your best to keep water and grime out of the headset.
129
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 10, 2021, 02:53:01 PM »
Once you have the set up, it will all make sense. The hex to tighten the compression plug/expander is definitely bigger than the top cap bolt, because #3 screws into the expander as shown. It doesn't take too much torque on the top cap screw to load the headset. If you have to tighten it too much, something is wrong. I can snap a couple of pictures once I'm home in a couple of hours.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 10, 2021, 12:51:14 PM »Thanks.
I'll expose my ignorance here, as I don't understand this.
As far as I know (not very far), tightening the hex nut on a compression plug expands it so that it grips the inside of the steerer, and that's all tightening it does. It's tightening the top cap on top of the stem that draws the steerer upwards, preloading the bearings.
What am I getting wrong?
Apologies, you are absolutely correct. I don't know what I was thinking. For sure, that's how the FSA system works with the integrated Chinese handlebar set-up on my frame, tighten the compression bolt, set the preload with the top cap bolt, then lock everything down with the stem bolts. I can't say for sure, but I can't imagine that it would work differently with the FSA top cover given the way the compression bolt works.
131
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 10, 2021, 08:48:15 AM »
For the FSA ACR system, the top cover is cosmetic. You'll adjust the pre load using the hex nut on the compression plug.
Yes, the center hole on the bars is where you'll route your lines through the stem. I use an FSA ACR headset and compression plug on my TanTan X21, but I've never used the complete ACR system. I'll just say that any 90 degree bend is going to be problematic. If you have a 1.5 to 1.5 headset on your frame, it should, for the most part be compatible, but YMMV. None of the bearings I used, the ones provided nor the FSA ones fit exactly. ID and OD were not the problem, they are all a snug fit. The stack height varies a lot between bearing sets. Microspacers took care of that issue though.
Yes, the center hole on the bars is where you'll route your lines through the stem. I use an FSA ACR headset and compression plug on my TanTan X21, but I've never used the complete ACR system. I'll just say that any 90 degree bend is going to be problematic. If you have a 1.5 to 1.5 headset on your frame, it should, for the most part be compatible, but YMMV. None of the bearings I used, the ones provided nor the FSA ones fit exactly. ID and OD were not the problem, they are all a snug fit. The stack height varies a lot between bearing sets. Microspacers took care of that issue though.
132
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: August 09, 2021, 06:01:57 PM »cme, I have another hydraulic routing question.
I understand that with internal routing the line for the front caliper runs from the left lever into the handlebar, through the handlebar and stem, through the holes at the front of the headset spacers and top cap, into the hole in the steerer tube, down inside the left fork leg and then exits above the caliper. Is that correct?
What I don't understand is the routing for the right lever/rear caliper. How does the hydralic line get from the spacer/top cap holes to the down tube?
Since it doesn't go into the hole in the steerer, does it just wrap around behind the steerer and exit the head tube and into the down tube? Is there no issue with the steerer rubbing on the hydraulic line?
Apologies if I've missed anything, since I haven't been following the thread too closely regarding cabling.
But, yes, on a typical integrated installation through the usual Chinese handlebar/stem, the rear brake line goes through the spacers, through the notch in the lock ring, into the head tube down the front of the steerer, then wraps around the steerer into the down tube. You'll get some rubbing, but it won't be enough to damage the hydraulic lines. It shouldn't be wrapped tight enough to restrict the steering. You'll have more issues getting the hydraulic lines and shift cable housing down through the spacers and lock ring.
133
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 01, 2021, 06:37:27 PM »On a traditional headset those microspacers would help. In this case the cables get in the way so the spacers don't cleanly slide over the steerer.
Those microspacers are easy to snip to fit an integrated headset.
134
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: July 21, 2021, 09:44:22 AM »It is aero vs climb (according to Chris) but just marginally so.
Presumably part of the weight gain comes from aero shaped tubes. The seat tube appears narrower from front, with a elongated profile resulting in the cut-out.
The stack is slightly lower, and reach slightly longer for a more aggressive riding position.
The smaller rear triangle contributes to better aerodynamics from airflow passing over the rear wheel.
In the end, marginal aerodynamics are harder to achieve than than marginal weight losses (unless you are already optimal weight for the sport). And let's face it, most of us (not all) who can afford this hobby could always lose a pound or two. Instant watts!
Reality: I kinda liked the look of the 168 a bit more. I was sold when I found out the geometry is exactly the same as the Tarmac SL7. Also, I could put the $50 saved towards a fancy schmancy chameleon Paint job.
I would choose the 168 as well. I'm a huge Venge fan boy and the fact that Specialized killed the Venge in favor of the redesigned SL7 and one all around instead of two competing bike designs says a lot about how they feel about the SL7 aero ability. The 168 geometry is identical to the SL 7.
That being said, I don't think we really expect SL 7 performance from the 168. The payoff is in the lay up, etc. I would just be happy with a stiff decently aero f4ame.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: various questions about custom build vs brand road bike (cost, issues, warranty)
« on: July 05, 2021, 08:11:39 PM »
It'll either completely change, or completely affirm the way you ride. Highly recommended if you are goal oriented.