I would install a rigid carbon fork and all your lock out problems will be solved!

I purchased this a while back and use check the alignment any time my shifting is off or have a crash. I love it, super easy to use. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Derailleur-Hanger-Alignment/dp/B0028YWHPW

Just found my old iplay clamp, looks like 34.9mm.

I have two of these.  Also 10g, verified.  They are a local San Diego company, so I'm ok spending a couple extra bucks to keep it local, as they sponsor races, etc.

http://www.loadedusa.com/products/binder-clamps/xlite-fixed/

One is on my carbon bike, the other my Alloy Santa Cruz with dropper post.  No slippage issues on either, not sure if past was required, but I applied prior to use.

I will definitely try this clamp. Does anyone know what size I need for the IP 256?

I was using hope hubs for a long time. I tried the BHS 32H hubs when I decided to build a rigid IP-256, and love them!

The higher POE was not a factor in my decision, but after using them made a noticeable difference in some riding conditions. The Hope hubs always had a slight pause and then a clunk when engaging on single track riding where I was always between costing and pedaling. Its nice to have the feel of instant engagement when bouncing around a rigid IP-256.

I have had the BHS hubs for about a year with no problems. Most of my rides are in the 1000 to 4000 foot climb range. I am 220 pounds, without any gear.

Good topic!

I have to do the foam trick for the internal cables. It makes really noise.
For the rear shifter cable, I didn't use the internal cable guides, but I'm running the full hose through the frame. I drilled out the back and front cable stop to get the full hose through. This way it make no sound at the back (but in the top of the down tube).

Got a small noise issue when steering really quick. The solution for this was to put some extra shims between the headset cap and the lock ring. Started with grease, but that didn't workout.

Seat post noise issue is easy to solve: clean up the seat post and frame. If the seat post wiggle (?) a little bit, use some hair spray to make it a little bit thicker (three spray sessions). And then use some carbon paste. Tighten the seat post clamp with 4 nm, with a max of 6 nm. This works so for good for me.

My wheel set made some rubber on rubber sound. Couldn't find it in the first place, but when opening the hub, getting of the conversion adapter, I found a small rubber closing ring. I putted some grease on it and now it's silent.

Creaking crank needs definitely some grease or a new bottom bracket bearing.

Always clean up before greasing.

I think the Foam in the down tube did a great job at quieting down the cable noise, but I think it is messing with my shift quality. I think with the bare shift cable resting on the foam I am not getting a consistent tension on the shift cable causing gear change problems.

I think I am going to have to drill out the cable stops like you did.

I was trying to find a black, sticky on one side, rubber/foam piece. I would use it between the head tube and brake line, shift cable. The cables make a really annoying noise when it gets bumpy. Any recommendations?