Looks like this would be the equivalent part if I wanted to opt for the fully concealed option within the Ritchey ecosystem: https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset

Based on you experience, I guess it would fit the frame. Thanks for your feedback!

Looks like it. Be aware that the Ritchey headset only comes with the top bearing. For the lower bearing, I used one of the two that shipped with the frame.

Tip: Use thicker rotors for reduced brake lever reach

I initially set up my L-Twoo eR9 groupset with Shimano SM-RT70 160mm center lock brake disc rotors front and rear. Braking power and feel was great, but I had to push the levers away from the bars by winding in the 2mm screw at the front of the levers (https://youtu.be/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ&t=11s), otherwise the levers would touch the bars when braking hard.

Winding in the screw reduces brake travel by preloading the hydraulic piston, positioning the brake pads closer to the rotor. However, winding in the screw also pushes the brake levers further from the handlebars. The result was that the lever reach was a little longer than what I was comfortable with.

I looked for some thicker rotors to remedy the problem, and I eventually purchased these Enlee 160mm rotors: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006060575685.html

They're very similar in design to SRAM CenterLine XR (CLX-R) rotors (https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rt-clx-r-a1), but with different shaped cutouts on the braking surface. I've also seen the rotors sold on AliExpress under the brands Mana, Meroca, and ZRace. They come with external spline lock rings that I'm not a fan of, but internal spline lock rings should also work fine.

The Enlee rotors are not for weight weenies, and they're a little heavier than advertised, my scales show 140g without the lock ring, and 147g with the lock ring. Thickness is difficult to measure as I don't have a micrometer, but my digital vernier calipers suggest that they're somewhere around 1.85-1.9mm thick.

With the Enlee rotors installed, I could position the brake levers closer to the handlebars by winding out the free stroke adjustment screw - success!

After bedding in, braking power feels the same as with the Shimano rotors, using the stock L-Twoo brake pads. The Enlee rotors are ever so slightly noisier - no screeching noise at all, but a sort of sandpaper-like sound. I don't live in the mountains, but I took them down a local descent on the weekend (Akuna Bay clockwise for Sydney-siders), and I didn't experience any brake rub after I got to the bottom.

A bonus is that these rotors look better than the Shimano SM-RT70 (105 level) rotors IMO.

I upgraded from 11 to 12 speed today on my eR9 equipped bike. By:

• Changing the cassette
• Changing the chain
• Adjusting the gears in the app

That's it! This is such an underrated feature of this groupset (and the Wheeltop one too).

Why go to 12 speed? I wanted to try the lightweight Goldix monoblock steel cassettes, as recommended by jonathanf2 on this forum. Those cassettes are available in both 11 and 12 speed, and I figured 12 > 11 

I can also confirm that 11-34T, with 50/34T at the front, is at the absolute limit of what the derailleur cage can handle, so max capacity of 39. And the chain length has to be spot on at that setup. One link more, and there's too much slack in small/small. One link less (which is what I did at first), and the chain runs nearly straight when passing through the jockey wheels. And my B tension screw has only a few millimeters of additional travel left.

Had another small issue with my eR9 groupset today. There was suddenly a crunching sound from the rear derailleur in all gears. Turns out that the B tension screw had worked its way out and the upper jockey wheel was touching the cassette.

Identifying the problem and fixing it was quick and easy (screw it back in), and I've applied some Loctite to hopefully prevent it from happening again. But it's not something I've experienced on other groupsets.

I replaced the unbranded blue batteries from eBay that I used at first with branded ones from DLG. Specifically the button-top variant from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html

So far, so good. I did a 35km ride today with lots of undulating hills, so loads of gear changes, both front and back. By the end of the ride, the battery capacity had dropped from 100% to 99%. The previous unbranded ones dropped more charge from shorter rides.

Bike looks great, how did the fitment with t47 and p505 go? Magene says its not compatible with the t47 BB.

In short, no issues at all. I purchased the crankset some time ago, and I don't recall seeing that warning at the time. So I set it up completely oblivious to the claimed incompatibility.

Speculation: Magene may be concerned about the gap (or lack thereof) between the inside of the spider and the frame bottom bracket shell - and perhaps also the outside edge of the bottom bracket itself. My setup doesn't have much of a gap, but it's enough clearance to not have any problem (see the attached photo).

eR9 issue and fix

I had an issue with my L-TWOO eR9 groupset today that I later fixed. It was most likely user error, and I'm posting it here in case it could help someone else in the same situation.

tl;dr
Problem: The front derailleur wouldn't shift, but the rear derailleur shifted just fine.
Fix: Ensure both derailleurs are firmly plugged into the battery, by unplugging them at the battery end, and firmly plugging them back in.
Likely reason: Poor connection to the seatpost battery on the battery end, possibly caused by vibrations by being transported in a car.
Other plausible reason: Dodgy batteries.

Situation

I was going for a ride in the morning, and I loaded my bike (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.0.html) in the boot (trunk for those of you in the US) of my sedan (saloon for those of you in the UK), lying on the side (NDS). The drive to the start of the ride took about 20 minutes. When I took my bike out of the car, the rear derailleur shifted just fine, but the front derailleur wouldn't budge.

I tried the following:

• Shift using the shifters
• Shift using the app
• Unplug the rear derailleur, wait 10 seconds, then plug it back in
• Unplug the front derailleur, wait 10 seconds, then plug it back in
• Calibrate the front derailleur using the app
• Adjust front gears using the app
• Change front derailleur high and low limits in the app
• Swap the gear shift responsibilities of the left and right shifters
• Try with one-touch shifting both on and off
• Try with gear protection both on and off
• Rear derailleur firmware update - was using version 0.1.1, no updates available
• Front derailleur firmware update - app reported current version 0.0 and latest 0.0
• Reset to factory settings - this reset all my derailleur position settings (which I fortunately had saved)

The only response I got from the front derailleur was when I plugged the front derailleur cable back in. It was a buzz reminiscent of Trace Velo's issue (https://youtu.be/32UDzOrqK2I?t=78s).

Other behaviour I noticed:

• The app reported 91% battery level.
• The app reported that I used the latest rear derailleur firmware version 0.1.1
• The app reported that I used the latest front derailleur firmware version 0.0. This was different to what it previously reported, which was 1.12
• The app would show that the front gears had changed when I used the app, but nothing happened.
• When I tried to adjust the front derailleur position for the large chainring in the app, the app showed a position of 0. This doesn't match what I saw from Trace Velo's video. The position for the small chainring showed correctly what I had set it to previously (12).

Other points of note:

• The app reports that I'm using model ES-R9001.
• The serial number on the rear derailleur starts with 250123.
• The battery holder uses coil springs rather than leaf springs to hold the batteries in place.
• I'm running the groupset as 2x11.
• I haven't ridden the bike in the rain or on wet roads, and I haven't washed the bike.

At this point I thought the rear derailleur was toast (which apparently was Trace Velo's problem in the end), but I decided to do a short solo ride anyway, with the front stuck in the small chainring. After riding for about 50 meters, I tried to change to the large chainring, and it shifted! Actually, it over-shifted, because I had lost my position settings when I "Reset to factory settings". So I stopped, put the chain back on, and tried to shift down. No response. The rear still shifted just fine. I then proceeded to try many of the steps listed above one more time, but no luck.

So I started riding again, and after another 50 meters of so, I could shift back to the small chainring. That was the last time the front derailleur shifted until I got back home, so put my rear derailleur position adjustments back as they were and did the ride in the small chainring. It was fairly hilly, so I could at least get up the hills!

After I got back home, the front still wouldn't shift. At that point, I wanted to check the connections on the battery end. So I pulled out the seatpost carefully, as I wanted to see what state the connections were. But as I pulled the seatpost slowly and carefully up and out, both derailleur cables came loose from the battery case connectors. I then plugged both of the cables into the battery holder, and immediate success! I could shift up or down without issue as before, and the front derailleur firmware now showed the correct version.

My main hypothesis is that I didn't plug the cables properly into the battery, and that the vibrations from being transported in a care shook them loose. Then when I started riding, the movement caused just enough of a connection to be established so I could shift.

Assuming that's the cause, does anyone have suggestions for how to better secure the cables at the battery end?

Another hypothesis is that the issue was caused by dodgy batteries in the battery holder. I don't have anything to support this hypothesis currently, apart from the fact that I'm using unbranded batteries from eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256250808223). They've been charging fine, and the reported charge hasn't dropped much with each ride. Regardless, I now have a branded set on order.

I'll also keep this bike for shorter trips for the time being, and be ready to pull out the seatpost should the problem reappear.

how much does shipping cost for wheels and frames to Australia, typically?

Frame shipping cost USD 106 (VeloBuild), while the wheels cost USD 53 (AliExpress).

Your airtag thing under the bottle cage is screaming airtag thing though

Haha, yeah I agree, that was the first thing I noticed after taking the photo. The AirTag has now been relocated.