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Messages - FHS

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151
Haha, I love Youtubers. Great stuff and super informative.

FWIW, I ended up going with a Quarq Dfour DUB. Had to fork over some funds for a DUB crankset, and ended up keeping my Shimano chainrings, but In The Know Cycling has a code that saved 10%, free shipping from a local vendor, and a delivery time that had the set-up installed and working on my bike 3 days after I ordered it. No installation, fitment, or functioning issues. Would have loved to go with a more budget friendly option, but considering everything, I think it was a wash.

152
I am looking for a jig to cut the steerer tube. Anybody knows the diameter of the tube? Tx!

There are some nice specialty jigs out there, but, unless you're cutting steerer tubes on multiple bikes multiple times, it was difficult to justify the price. I had one of these in.my tool box so I tried it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAK72Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7RYW9ET805XHCBWYMMYN

Worked fine. Probably took a  bit longer to cut, but after some sanding and clear nail polish, it looks great.

153
Can you update on this, I'm curious!

Yeah, it works, no problems! I fit the bearings and the lock ring, used the FSA compression plug, and tightened it all.down with the TanTan headset cover and handlebar spacers with no issues. I had to use some micro spacers with the lock ring, but that's not an FSA fitment issue.

154
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-186
« on: May 03, 2021, 09:08:09 AM »
Hi, how do you lead the cables from the fork and rear brake through the Headset?

the cable from the front brake comes out of the fork on the right side and has to go to the left side,
if i lead the rearbrake on the left side of the fork it scratches when i turn the handlebar

any idea or picture how it works best?

thanks a  for an help

added a picture which i think should work best

Is that Token's Cable Box headset?

155
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: April 25, 2021, 07:35:22 PM »
The image I posted was for the Falcon Pro AR55 rims and wheelsets.

 It is listed as being 28 mm wide, but since it's U shaped, it's actually 30 mm at its widest point. If you are following the 105 rule, it makes a difference running the 25mm Conti 5000 TLs. The 25mm 5000 TLs pump up to around 28mm wide and sit flush with my AR 46s. Looks nice and tidy, but apparently not aerodynamically optimized.

I

156
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: April 23, 2021, 11:17:47 AM »
Hmm,

Seems I was mistaken about the width of the Falcon Pros. I would prefer at least a 60 deep rim, but the width is good.


157
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: April 22, 2021, 12:39:03 PM »
Yeah, I have nothing but good things to say about Light Bicycle's service. I ordered mine through the North American Wherehouse. I just wish they had a wider selection of their road Falcon Pros. If they offered 30mm wide deep section road rims, I'd order a set.

158
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: April 22, 2021, 09:25:04 AM »
Do you mean Light Bicycle wheels? If so, did you get them hookless, and how was the fit of the GP5000 tubeless tires? I ask because some bike brands claim these tires do not yet conform to the ETRTO standard for hookless rims, and thus are not compatible with their wheels.

I currently run Light Bicycle AR 46 hooked wheels with 25mm Conti 5000 TLs. Before that, I ran the 28mm Conti 5000 tubed tires. Continental itself warns against using it's 5000 TLs on hookless rims, not sure why. They are tough to mount, though. I struggled trying to mount the tubed version and had to take them to my LBS. When I switched to the 25mm tubeless, I was better prepared and I was able to mount them myself with a Crank Bros lever. I feel like not having to deal with a tube made it a bit easier. Once mounted, they seated pretty easily with just a floor pump. Great tires and if I could get them mounted and sealed on Light Bicycle rims, I have to believe anybody can.

159
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TanTan TT-X21 frame
« on: April 12, 2021, 09:50:50 AM »
Echoing what Carbonazza said. I'm 178 cm with a 81 cm inseam. My choice was between a 56 and a 54. I went with a 56. Either would have been fine for me personally, but I don't have a lot of flexibilty. I can run a reasonably racier stance on a 56 with just a 100mm stem and just one 10mm headset spacer. I'd could have run a longer stem but I'd need a few more spacers.

160
Apologies, my tendency to see everything in USD.  ;)

It is nice to know that there is a cheaperish option. Heck the more I read these A9 threads, though, the more I think that the only way I'm going to scratch this itch is to just get an A9.  :o

161
Hmm. I did another search but couldn't find it in the $200 range. I think I mistook another model for what Rolling Stone calls their FSA ACR compatible "Hider" handlebars. The Hider is listed for $350 ish.

162
There is a store on AliExpress called "rolling stone" selling the exact same handlebar for around £200.

I saw that. I was soooooooooooooooo tempted. Still tempted. Maybe, by thr time i need.to replace hoses.and housinh. Hoping the price drops.

163
Well, I have the FSA ACR headset so I can't say if that's what comes with the A9. If the A9 set-up is not the same, the genuine FSA ACR headset is a worthwhile $50 investment. The FSA compression plug doesn't slip and is definitely longer than the TanTan plug, which is most likely the same as the Velobuild set-up. The FSA plug supports the stem better than the stock plug. I feel like all the FSA materials are just higher quality than the stock TanTan components for sure.

Way more important than the individual components, though, is the way the FSA headset/Metron handlebar system works together. Instead of trying to cram all the the tubing and cable housing through one narrow choke point through the compression ring, the ACR system routes the front hydraulic brake tubing through the top of the stem, over the top of the steerer tube, through the compression plug, then down through the tube/fork. I have to believe the FSA/Metron system is easier to work with and won't cause the same problems with tubing/cable routing.

I'm just not willing, at this point, to fork over $400-$500 dollar's for a set of Metron handlebars to fit on my $550 frame and budgetish build. Along those same budget lines, I suppose if you're gonna go with electronic shifting, it won't matter as much as far as I'm concerned.

164
The extra money also goes to a much nicer handlebar if you opt for the same one on my bike (same as a ACR vision metron) which alone is worth the price difference)

This.

I have the TanTan version of the Velobuild 099 and, If I had it to do all over again knowing what I know now, I probably would shell out the extra cash for the A9 just to get the ACR Metron set-up out of the box. The HB-010 handlebar/stem, or whatever Velobuild calls it, is a real pain in the ass. Having installed just parts of the ACR headset as replacements for the stock headset parts, it's already a better set-up than stock.

That being said, I like the frame, but, I have no basis for comparison to the A9 as far as racing goes.

165
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TanTan TT-X21 frame
« on: March 31, 2021, 09:10:24 AM »
I found a fitting that allows the housing to leave the frame.

Where did you get it? The stock fitting is a pain.

The 105 shifts flawlessly when it's adjusted correctly, really nice, but mine had a tendency to need readjusting every few rides. Might have had something to do with the fiddly cable fitting. I switched to Ultegra and have had fewer issues with adjustment, but I also spent a lot of time securing down the fitting when I switched out the mechs.

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