I've been using csc brand carbon wheels and they've been great. Im 104kg and I've put over 1200 miles on them so far with 0 issues.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLL4TXL

I'm 5'10" with a 30.5in inseam( I think thats about a 178cm height with 77cm inseam) I'm riding a 52 and I think it was the perfect choice. Haven't had a real bike fit because of covid but my old bike was a 54(granted it had a different geo) and didn't allow for much to be changed to get a comfotable fit. I was already using a 165 crank and had the seatpost in the lowest position. With a 52 for this frame I was able to play with crank length , stem and saddle height to get it feeling real nice.

I do have to say, the ACR metron set up does look real nice. if i cared more about form over function id have gone that way but what i have works and it was great at the price i paid. (not saying the ACR setup doesnt have function , just that they both do the job)

I  may have been lucky but i have had no issues with my handlebar set up from velobuild. my compression plug hasnt slipped and theres no play in the headset.  although it does feel cheap, sometimes cheap works. I did consider upgrading to an FSA headset but decided to do it down the line if i ever have problems with mine and need a replacement since mine works well right now. 

other than the cockpit i cant imagine much difference between the frames. i think most factories are doing a layup of the carbon in the same way with EPS tech and being that its pretty much the same frame i wouldnt think one is more stiff than the other.

Does anyone have a list of torque specs for the VB-R-168? I’ve asked but received limited information. Thanks!

on my R099 the specs were listed on the parts that came with the frame like the seat post and handlebar clamp.

I don't think you're getting anything more. They're probably trying to make it seem that a higher price translates to a better quality product but from the many testimonials on this site its pretty evident that most of these frames are very much the same.

I can personally attest to velobuild as I ride 2 of them. A little over 1k miles on my r099 and $350 55mm carbom wheels from CSC and still riding great. In a few clicks you can read similar stories with tantan, ican , Carbonda , dangfu etc.

I say find a frame that you like the geo of and if you stick to some of the more popular brands here you can't go wrong no matter the price.

i never read anywhere that velobuild is trash 

although you're right you do hear more about dengfu/hongfu. in anycase, i have two from velobuild. purchased r 099 late last year and purchased their gravel frame gr01 last month( build post coming soon  ). both have been amazing to ride on

granted ive put a only a couple hundred miles on the gr01 so far but i take it down steep MTB trails, its been really fun and has held up well carrying me, im 104kg . put a lot more on the r099 , id have to double check but maybe close to 1k but in any case its been great. super fast frame and feels plenty stiff when i mess around on sprints with my buddies.

you'll read about it everywhere and its not an exaggeration, chris and his customer service has been amazing. plus i get my frames super fast from them. china to california. i think it was about 3 weeks for the road frame and 1 week for the gravel frame. i  was actually very surprised when the gravel frame came in. exactly 7 days after i paid, i went to check to see if chris had emailed me a tracking number and it was literally on my doorstep 20min later. i thought it was my super late tan tan frame but nope, was the second velobuild frame.

i really dont like advertising for companies nor reviewing anything but when you have had such extreme experiences with these companies( from my terrible time with tan tan to an amazing purchase experience with velobuild), i feel it necessary to at least provide my thoughts.  i would say save the money ,go with velobuild and ride with some peace of mind knowing its just as good as the other guys.

I'm not sure whats better
turn on one side or one both sides,

turning on both sides, seems to me to but a more constant pressure on the bracket, but maybe more risk for wedging

I used a home made press tool and it works fine. Just make sure your washers are the right size.

One thing I'd suggest is spending the money on a thread together  or thread lock BB . They have really helped provide better alignment for the spindle and  the cranks seems to spin smoother now thats I've swapped. I'm not sure if ztto makes one for sram dub but wheels mfg does.

Also, I would suggest to press one side in first then line up the other side and press that in. Or of you get a thread together BB just use the tool to screw it in

I was actually thinking of doing the same thing but when I checked you'd have to swap out the handlebar as well because the little dimple things on the headset wouldn't match up with the stem.  Unless that doesn't really matter