181
After The Ride / Re: Where is everyone from?
« on: January 28, 2015, 08:51:57 AM »
West of Atlanta GA- about 30 minutes from downtown, or a little over an hour from Carbon Dude.
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182
29er / Re: Budget Build
« on: January 27, 2015, 08:42:01 PM »
You want the standard Shimano SLX M676 Double Front Derailleur- that's what I have on my IP-057. The rest of my group is XT, but they were out of XT front ders when I ordered. The SLX front der is excellent- it shifts cleanly with no jerks even when pedaling uphill.
I wouldn't give up the time I've had my Chiner, but the XT group is now almost $100 less than when I ordered
I wouldn't give up the time I've had my Chiner, but the XT group is now almost $100 less than when I ordered
183
29er / Re: John's IP-057 build - first bike build ever
« on: January 27, 2015, 09:01:20 AM »
Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon. I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods 
184
29er / Re: Budget Build
« on: January 27, 2015, 08:30:02 AM »
Not much to add, but +1. Once it's ordered it is tough to sit back and wait, but you just gotta be patient.
185
29er / Re: Carbon frame feels like plastic
« on: January 22, 2015, 11:49:34 PM »
Actually it is plastic
Well, a composite of carbon fibers and epoxy resin (plastic). The surface is all resin or a cover film, so what you're touching really is plastic.
Try squeezing the down tube- if it's like my -057, it feels like you could crush it in your hand.
Well, a composite of carbon fibers and epoxy resin (plastic). The surface is all resin or a cover film, so what you're touching really is plastic.
Try squeezing the down tube- if it's like my -057, it feels like you could crush it in your hand.
186
29er / Re: John's IP-057 build - first bike build ever
« on: January 19, 2015, 03:04:17 PM »
Great shot in the snow!
Wow, only 10 psi? Was that front or rear? I'm still a noob at tubeless, but I'd be worried about bottoming out and damaging the rim.
Any guesses on what caused the chain drop? Were you pedaling, did you hit a bump, etc.?
Edit- meaning, did anything happen that may have contributed to it jumping off?
I also have the XT 2X10 and it's been great. I think it actually shifts smoother in the front than in the rear when I'm going up a steep climb and have to downshift- it just drops right on to the little ring, very smooth.
Wow, only 10 psi? Was that front or rear? I'm still a noob at tubeless, but I'd be worried about bottoming out and damaging the rim.
Any guesses on what caused the chain drop? Were you pedaling, did you hit a bump, etc.?
Edit- meaning, did anything happen that may have contributed to it jumping off?
I also have the XT 2X10 and it's been great. I think it actually shifts smoother in the front than in the rear when I'm going up a steep climb and have to downshift- it just drops right on to the little ring, very smooth.
187
29er / Re: Budget Build
« on: January 12, 2015, 12:48:28 PM »
I don't have any of the other iplay parts, but several folks on here do- with some digging or Google-fu you should be able to find reviews.
If there's any way you can fit carbon rims into your budget I think that would be the way to go, but that may make it impossible to keep it under $2k since the wheels will be at least ~$650.
I don't really have an opinion on which is the most important, but with ~$1200 to spend on the group, fork and wheels you'll just have to see what you can find that fits in the budget. You could save a lot of money and weight with a rigid fork, then add a suspension fork later if you like.
If there's any way you can fit carbon rims into your budget I think that would be the way to go, but that may make it impossible to keep it under $2k since the wheels will be at least ~$650.
I don't really have an opinion on which is the most important, but with ~$1200 to spend on the group, fork and wheels you'll just have to see what you can find that fits in the budget. You could save a lot of money and weight with a rigid fork, then add a suspension fork later if you like.
188
29er / Re: Budget Build
« on: January 11, 2015, 05:59:48 PM »
Yes- you won't have superlight parts, but you should be able to get a very good bike for less than $2k. It won't be 20 pounds, but I think you might hit 25.
I plugged in typical numbers for all the other parts- you may be able to do better, or get lighter parts for about the same price. You could actually go quite a bit cheaper on the wheels, but I put $400 in there to show that even with a pretty good wheelset you can come in under $2k. If you can't get or don't want the Tower Pro fork, you should be able to find another air fork at around $400 - 450.
My build cost me around $2400 (at first ), but I had the frame painted, went with an XT group, a Rockshox SID, and got name-brand carbon parts for the handlebars and seatpost. I put together a spreadsheet to compare the cost and weight of different options- this will really help you decide where it is worthwhile to spend a little more or where to save some $$$.
You'll need some tools as well, but you should already have a lot of what you need if you do any maintenance on your bikes- bottom bracket tool, cassette lockring tool, etc. You don't have to have a repair stand to put the bike together- I did it without one, but then I bought a stand afterward- having one will make it easier.
| frame | 2.86 | 500 | ip-057 including shiping and paypal fees |
| fork | 3.74 | 270 | Manitou Tower Pro is on sale at Pricepoint again, but it looks like only in 120mm QR http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Manitou/Manitou-Tower-Pro-29er-Fork.axd |
| group | 7.50 | 380 | SLX full group, including brakes http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-slx-m675-2-x-10-disc-brake-groupset-58862.html |
| wheels | 4.63 | 400 | |
| tires | 3.96 | 60 | |
| handlebar | 0.55 | 40 | |
| stem | 0.37 | 25 | |
| seatpost + clamp | 0.68 | 40 | |
| seat | 0.50 | 25 | |
| pedals | 0.58 | 50 | |
| spacers | 5 | ||
| grips | 0.20 | 5 | |
| paste | 10 | ||
| total | 25.57 | 1810.00 |
I plugged in typical numbers for all the other parts- you may be able to do better, or get lighter parts for about the same price. You could actually go quite a bit cheaper on the wheels, but I put $400 in there to show that even with a pretty good wheelset you can come in under $2k. If you can't get or don't want the Tower Pro fork, you should be able to find another air fork at around $400 - 450.
My build cost me around $2400 (at first
), but I had the frame painted, went with an XT group, a Rockshox SID, and got name-brand carbon parts for the handlebars and seatpost. I put together a spreadsheet to compare the cost and weight of different options- this will really help you decide where it is worthwhile to spend a little more or where to save some $$$. You'll need some tools as well, but you should already have a lot of what you need if you do any maintenance on your bikes- bottom bracket tool, cassette lockring tool, etc. You don't have to have a repair stand to put the bike together- I did it without one, but then I bought a stand afterward- having one will make it easier.
189
29er / Re: Rim tape for 30mm carbon wheels?
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:47:14 AM »
But seriously, what's your build list? Can't remember if you posted in another thread. A carbon fiber saddle could drop about 200 g if you currently have a heavy one, but it might not be worth it if you can't stand the feel.
190
29er / Re: Rim tape for 30mm carbon wheels?
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:38:50 AM »
Anybody got any ideas on how to shave another 2.9 lbs?
Ride more- if you're like me, you should be able to drop a couple of pounds easy
191
29er / Re: Rim tape for 30mm carbon wheels?
« on: January 08, 2015, 02:36:05 PM »
fwiw, the 1" Gorilla tape weighs about 20 g for each wheel. If you had a narrower wheel and had to trim the tape it would be more difficult, but it is still pretty easy to cut the tape to width while it is on the roll.
192
29er / Re: Rim tape for 30mm carbon wheels?
« on: January 07, 2015, 11:44:42 PM »
1" Gorilla tape is pretty much a perfect fit. I didn't have any problems getting it to seal on my 30 mm iPlay rims.
193
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Brake sound question
« on: January 07, 2015, 01:44:08 PM »
Sure, but with the right technique I'd never crash at all
194
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Brake sound question
« on: January 06, 2015, 05:09:31 PM »
Thanks guys- they are centerlock, so I guess that's 10 fewer things to get loose
Torque should be good on everything. The power stops are probably good to get a feel for just how hard I can brake before going over the bars.
Torque should be good on everything. The power stops are probably good to get a feel for just how hard I can brake before going over the bars.
195
29er / Re: What framesize?
« on: January 06, 2015, 07:21:32 AM »
I'd also vote for 17. I'm 178 cm with around an 82 cm inseam, so slightly taller but with slightly shorter legs. I have a 17.5" IP-057 with a 70 mm stem and it fits well- I've certainly never thought it was cramped or too small for me. The standover for the Chiner hardtails is quite a bit higher than my old 26er- with my Chiner I only have a 2-3 cm clearance standing on flat ground, compared to 6-8 on my old 26er.