No problem here at all. The half ring sits perfect. Did you connect the half ring properly to the top bearing cover?

I think this may be an issue with TanTan frames, with small differences from one frame to the next, maybe. My issue was never with setting the ring correctly. The TanTan ring would snap nicely into the TanTan bearing all the time. My problem was the stack height for the bearings + crown race + ring was never right.

I actually have two different headsets, the TanTan supplied one and an FSA ACR. The bearings are all 1.5 36 + 45 and all fit into the frame's 1.5" inch integrated cups snugly, without play, but they are all different heights. Between the 4 bearings, 2 rings, and 2 crown races, the stack height can be all over the place. Using any combination of pieces, I either had a stack height that locked up my steering against the head tube before tightening the headset, at the top cap or the forks, or even both, or just wouldn't allow tightening the headset at all.

Those spacers I got from my lbs were just the trick. They allowed me to dial in the stack height of the top bearing and ring. I just had to have a bottom bearing and crown race that fit well enough to not lock up the steering at the forks after tightening down the headset. All good now.

I think if you use the thicker TanTan bearing at the bottom, and the thinner bearing at the top, you can adjust the height at the top cap and still have enough space at the forks.

Hope thate makes sense.

Hi all,

Have you had experience with play on your frame? If yes how did you resolve it?

I had an issue with the headset, as it didn’t matter how tight I made it,  the sort of half ring that stays in between the steerer tube and the top bearing seemed a fraction to small, causing the play that become extremely noticeable when I assembled the bike and used the front brake to rock the bike back and forth.

Cheers

Yes, this was an issue from day one. I went to my lbs and the tech set me up with a set of head set spacers. They are super thin, .25mm each. They sit on top of the lock ring, the half ring, that sits on top of your bearings. A stack of three worked for me, but I bought an FSA ACR headset awhile back, hoping to fix the problem that way. 

To make a long painful story short, I could tighten down the headset, but then the steering would bind, with the fork rubbing up against the head tube at the bottome, and the top cover rubbing up against the head tube at the top. I tried an FSA ACR headset, but that didn't solve the issue completely, but it did help. I ended up using one of the fatter ACR bearings at the bottom, and the fatter TanTan bearing at the top, along with the fatter FSA Lock Ring at the top, but I couldn't completely eliminate the play withing binding up the steering.

These spacers worked like a charm. No headset play at all and butter smooth steering. Yuo'll have to cut a notch in the spacers for the cables, but that's pretty simple, and you'll just have to play with the amount of spacers it takes. They come in different thicknesses.

Good luck!

I'm running my xcadey spider power meter on Shimano XT m8100 cranks with a 1x 104bcd  dekas ring.  I'm only using this setup until my Magene P325 CS arrives ( Works great, fantastic PM. App is good, power reading are as expected, smooth and responsive. I don't think this is what you are looking for but it's a good brand imo. I ordered directly from their website.

Thank you for the input! Is that an xcadey, or a Sigeyi? I actually have thought about the Magene full crankset offering as well. At this point, I think I'm backing off the Zrace crankset. I really like their website and they ansewer emails really quickly. They say shipping and delivery will be reasonably fast if they have stock. I just think I'm leaning toward keeping my Shimano 24mm set-up.

Thanks again!

Fred

Hi,

I think we are literally building almost the same bike!

Seems like a popular choice these days!

What do you think about the powermeter/crankset?

Took me awhile to sort out all the issues with my TanTan TT-21 build. All due to my lack of build experience, not anything noteworthy wrong with the frame.

I'm thinking about this next....

https://www.sigeyishop.com/product/zracesigeyi-rx-power-meter-crankset/

Everything I've read about the power meter has been mostly positive, positive enough for my use anyway. Does anybody have any experience with the crankset though? I'd be swapping out my Shimano 105 R7000 crankset and would be happy with performance that is close to the 105 anyway, with regard to stiffnes. I'd also have to switch out my Wheels MFG BB86 threaded pressfit, which I love, for a DUB BB92, which concerns me about compatibility. I welcome any thoughts.

Thanks!

How did you all choose between the TT-X23, TT-X24, and TT-X21? They all look similarly priced. Did you all pass on the TT-X3 because of the BB386 bottom bracket?

The TT-X3 was my first choice. It was out of stock when I ordered back in November. Back then, they told me it would be available in March. My second choice was actually the TT-X22. That would have been my first choice, but it cost twice as much. I went with the TT-X21 because that's what they said was in stock and ready to ship, and I didnt have to pay $599 for it.

If I had it to do all over again, I probably would have gone with the Velobuild 099 if I'd know about it. It's costs even less than what I paid for the X21, with way cheaper shipping charges. Now that I have my bike build and have been riding it for a few weeks now, I don't have any regrets though about going with TanTan and not knowing about Velobuild.

This is the integrated handlebar and stem that came with my frame.

http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=623

Here is the top cap from TanTan, on my bike, along with the compression plug that I'm not using. The TanTan top cap works with the compression plug that came with the FSA ACR headset. There is a rubber cover that fits over the bolt, but I stopped using it and can't seem to track it down.

Regarding the headset bearings, I've run them both ways. With the thicker, red in my case, bearing up top, I had to rreally crank down on the top bolt to take the play out of the steerer tube, but there was no effect on the steering stiffness at all. The headset felt decent though.

With the thinner bearing, black in my case, up top, it only took less than 1 and a half turns on the top bolt to practicallly freeze the steering, but it still left more play in the head set.

I did try the FSA headset for a minute, but it didnt feel much different than the TanTan headset with the black.
 up top and red down below. I'm running the TanTan now with black top red bottom because it's the last combo I tried and I got tired or messing with it. It's a bit flexy but it is fine.