How is the toe overlap with the 707? It's horrible on my 696. Size 54 frame, size 44 shoes and even after giving up my beloved midfoot cleat position the toe overlap is ridiculous. Can't really steer at low speeds

Did you push the piston out of your caliper? If so just push it back in evenly. When the piston gets pushed out it usually fine. Just takes a lot more work to bleed air out. Also just watch around the piston for oil leaking. If it is leaking you could look for the oring(s) seal (might be a square edged orings) to replace it. Don't let your pistons get damaged around the seal. Make sure no grime is on them either.

I've reused the olive. It's not a huge deal.  It can be a pain to set a barb even with basic tools.  You don't have to replace the full hose when switching. Just cut the end with a razor, knips, hose cutter, scissors. Then new barb and olive.

I'm going to do one more ride tomorrow with the onirii calipers.  I did a ride Tuesday stopping was fine.  I just want to be sure my pistons are moving and releasing evenly.  I have tons more stop and go lights for tomorrow's ride.

Long story short: it's stuck in a weird position and I can't push it back fully or take it out

Long story long for people who want to laugh at me/not make the same mistake:
I bled the rear brake last week but *really* poked my thumb trying to push the bleed block in place because there's a stupid pin inside the caliper for some reason. 20% of my thumb is still black (I'm not). Great bleed though for a first time.
I didn't want to fight the front brake while putting in the bleed block and I thought pistons would only contract if you squeezed the lever. I didn't put the bleed block (I removed the disc from the wheel and the pads of course) but big mistake, pushing in oil also activates the piston, or at least the right one. One is still in place but one fell out. I tried putting it back in but only one side pushed in properly (used moderate pressure with a plastic tire lever, nothing major I think) 
I'll take my bike to my dad this weekend to see if he can get it out. I'm hesitant about bringing it to my LBS considering it's a chinese frame and he already told me "that's what you get for buying chinese crap" after I brought him a singular wheel that needed trueing that came from a bike HE SOLD ME.
Costly mistake. Fuck you Shimano for the sharp pin.

(The bruise is on the other thumb)

Hyped for the products you can't find on aliexpress already. If if's even a cent more expensive than ali, not interested. I rarely mind waiting a month (but it's never that long to europe anyway)

This is the reason why I prefer the Novatech hubs... Spare parts are easy to find.

What are you referrring to? The unorthodox bearing sizes DTS uses? Hambini mentions RYET uses common bearing sizes which is a plus for them

]
Hi all,
I have a set of carbon wheels on the way from China:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003750120132.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.9.493e4c49XJ1UZd&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%20510%2C82%21%E2%82%AC%20357%2C58%21%21%21%21%21%402103250d16815725585155417e0144%2112000027034959238%21sh

Does anyone know the extact type of freehub body for this hub? It hubs look exactly like the Goldix 240, but the description says its pawls system.
Thanks
[/quote]

Hey man today is your lucky day
[quote author=Rufusz link=topic=4166.msg45331#msg45331 date=1681572504

I would have for sure bought this crankset if subcompact cranks was available. I want 48-32 direct mount, powermeter and 165mm options. For aliexpress cranks, it's always pick 2 sadly 

A lot of these chinese brands have a really small chamois vertically, if i compare them to my nopinz or blacksheep their chamois are far superior especially if you get into an aero position.

I've relegated my spexcel ybyk(?) bibs to shorter rides 1 hour max.

Felt the opposite on my spexcel bibs. They go pretty much from my tailbone to above my junk. A lot more than my castelli and van rysel bibs

I was looking at portable inflators, as small as possible, and this came up today. 97 grams all in and 20 minutes to full charge. So I am guessing the battery life to be atrocious. May be good for 1 or 2 medium width gravel tires?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805147145658.html

PT did a review on it before it got launched a few months ago:
I'd be interested to try but not for that price

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805215240824.html

Zeroing crankset is selling for about $50 USD with discount. Any opinions on this style of crankset that uses this locking method for the non-drive side crank arm? Any idea on the torque specs as well for the left crank arm?



I have a similar Goldix crankset with 2 pinch bolts on the non drive side crank arm. Many of these 2 bolt Goldix cranks use M5 which is a bad choice, because M5 bolts can't be torqued as high as M6 bolts which Shimano uses (12-14nm max torque). I have mine torqued between 8-10nm, any higher and you risk stripping the M5 bolt.  Though I find this hollow style crankset addicting because of the price and lightweight design. On my 1x road bike it does quite well once properly setup.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803455977621.html

Avoid! Avoid! Plenty of stories about these cranks failing on the forums and in TraceVelo's comments