Thanks!

First ride done!! I really need to invest in some carbon assembly compound!!! I was having issues with my handle bars and seat post moving around. I tried tightening them but they kept moving. I stopped 5 times on my hour ride to adjust my bars. I just ordered some of this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GSOPBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had my tires set to 30 PSI and it was way smoother than I thought it would be. I had been riding my other bike with the shock locked out for the last 3 weeks to get an idea how it would feel. I do have a little less clearance with the rigid fork, and the longer crank, 175mm.  My hard tail Giant has a 120mm shock and 170mm crank. The Giant is the only other mountain bike I have owned.

I will be able to give a better review when I get the bars and seat post problem solved.

It is nice to finally see the bike dirty!

That is a very nice 1x combination!

Could you please describe the different parts?
Cassette, derailleur and chainring.

As a european, I'm not fond on golden chains, but this may interest some others

I have been using this specific 1x combination for about a year now on my other hard tail.  The only difference is the crank, on my older bike its been converted from 3 chain rings to one narrow wide chain ring that mounts where the middle chain ring use to be.  I ordered the Race Face crank with the 32t narrow wide chain ring already installed.

Other parts are the 42t one up cog that works great!.
XT 11-36 cassette
Wolf Tooth 16t cog that works much better than the free one that comes with the On Up 42t cog. They were both the same weight.
I use and XT clutch derailleur that has been modified with a RAD cage. The RAD cage helps keep the derailleur close to all the smaller cogs on the cassette so shift feel is  very close to stock.
Threw on a few aluminum pulleys that were half the weight of the plastic ones.

Check out On Up and Wolf tooth web sites.
MTB forum has a HUGE thread on this very topic: http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/11-42t-conversion-oneup-vs-wolf-tooth-897313-62.html

This 1x10 setup is all I need. I have not dropped a chain since I started using it.  Love it!

I am interested in hearing about the Next SL crank...if not for price, I would get one in a heartbeat.
Not sure of your goal, but if WW -- you could lose 1/2 lb + still
What spokes are you going with? - depending on that, you could have a 1400g wheelset there...and I like going with 32 hole for more strength on lighter rim..(depending on riding isn't necessary though)
Are you going with any color or design...I personally like the 'murdered out' look.

I will be riding it this week, hopefully Wednesday. I went from a 170 to 175 crank, will be interesting to see if I can feel a difference.
The gearing is the same as my other bike.

I should of researched the spokes more. The wheel builder had 3 options in stock so I picked the middle weight spoke. They were DT Swiss but not sure what model.

I was thinking about paint but the all black looked really good when done. 

Single speed, no rear rotor?

I am still working on it. I was really thinking it would take longer to get the parts from IPlay so I took my time ordering all the other parts. From the time I sent my first email asking about a price list to the time I had the box was 7 days, that has to be some kind of record!

Another problem I ran into was the rear hub. The hub was 12 mm but only 135mm wide. Of course I only notice after I had the hub laced to my new rim, taped, and full of Stans sealant. I called Bike Hub Store and they admitted they sent the wrong size. They also said I could keep the hub on because the axle can be changed with the proper 142mm size.

I received the last of my parts on Saturday.  Monday they will be going on the bike!

Looks really nice! How much do you weight if you don't mind me asking?   

Go tubeless you'll never go back!!

I purchased the IP 256 SL frame.  This is my first time dealing with internal routing, and I had a few questions.

Are the plastic tubes that come on the bike just used to guide the brake and cable lines?

It looks like the entrance hole for rear derailleur cable is on the same side as the shifter. Is anyone using the front derailleur hole instead? I won’t be using a front derailleur.

Thanks for any help. Pictures on what you guys did for you routing or a link to your build would be great!!

Jason