Hy Draz,
Thank you. I know a few of the Al Frames with downhill geo… but i search for Carbon and was surprised don‘t find any.

My point is with that much of front travel you may need a rear suspension, if you want to go carbon.
AL should give more compliance, better suited for long travel hardtails.

You are basically looking for an XC carbon frame with enduro type head angle which should be quite rare.

I have a 65degree AL hardtail and carbon full sus.
As an engineer and a rider, I just don't recommend stiff rear and trail size fork.

Of course thats just an opinion but the fact that AL version offered in that geo is way more common, kinda backs my opinion.

Enduro seems to be the standard for MTB. Like FullCarbonAlchemist said they are specifically for MTB. In my quest for searching for bearings NTN seems to be another high quality brand but they are not bike specific.

Is that a picture of the lower shock bearing? Which frame do you have, 1001 or 1002? If reading the numbers correctly that's a 6902 which is 15mmx28mmx7mm.

I have LC947 thats the rocker arm and dimensions are correct. I'm interested in bearings tho 

The bearings should be full compliment (usually called max in the bike world), that's the most important for frame bearings. The hardware store ones are usually with a cage.

I did a quick research about the bearing type and kinda have conclusion for bearing.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Caged bearing for faster where there is not much load.

Full compliment for load and slower bearing can also take some shock.

LLU for full contact, better seal and more drag.

LLB for non contact, slightly less seal spec hence less drag.

For pivot bearings LLU and full compliment seems to be the right choice then.

I don't have any play either, the shock bolt sits tight in the frame and on the shock, actually so tight the coating on the bolt has shaved a little from pulling it out. I haven't ridden the frame yet so I don't know if its something that could come later tho.

I guess you purchased the frame recently same as i did, that means LC knew the issue and improved on the previous bolt. I ridden the frame and still no play, not yet at least.
Mine also looks slightly scratched, but thats only the paint. Better than being smaller i guess.

That seems to be the best choice, you can also install oval chainring 32T. Just check the maximum ovality of the chainring. However, I would stick with the normal chainring tho, that seems to be easy on rear derailleur, clutch system.

That frame is 34T compatible but, 34T oval chainring usually have the ovality of 32T-36T. So you are exceeding the max chainring size. If you install spacer to BB just make sure your bb shell has enough width. Problem is your chainline will change in favor to harder gears. Easier gears, big cogs will be harder to achieve. Obviously this is for 1x set up.

I finally finished the build and here is the Green Pine.

I was delivered by national post office just 16 days after i made the payment. Amazing work followed by Jim from lightcarbon.

Full build album is in the link.

https://imgur.com/a/lX4lcHO

Frame:
Lightcarbon LCFS947 -Large-

Build

Fork: Rockshox Lyric Select 170mm 42mm with 2 tokens

Rear Shock: Rockshox Deluxe Ultimate 185x55 159mm travel with factory tokens. Found 190€ new on bike24 so no piggyback..

Drivetrain: Shimano XT8100 shifter / SLX7100 Rear derailleur / SLX7100 crankset 32T 170mm/ SLX 6100 Chain & cassette

Brakes: Shimano deore 6120 with metallic pads

Rotors: Slx RT66 203mm F - 180mm R

Handlebar: Nukeproof horizon v2 - 35mm- 25mm rise- 770mm

Stem: Nukeproof horizon 35mm

Wheelset: Nukeproof Horizon v2 102T

Headset and seatpost clamp: Nukeproof

Dropper post: Brand-X 170mm 31.6 going to swap with a friend's 150mm. This frame works allright with Oneup v2 150mm only!

Saddle: WTB volt

Tires: Maxxis Aggressor / Dissector / Assegai on rotation 2.5/2.6

Going to give some ride feedback soon!

Just finished painting and I have to say it's a real pain in the O.

Notes to the initial thoughts.

Preparation
I will cover all the pivot points which can be scuffed with the movement, bb, headset, seatpost. Wet sand the UD fiber layer with 600 then 800 grit.

This is probably the most important step take your time and make the masking perfect.
A bit of imagination is required to create a stand for the main triangle.
Also manufacturing tolerances were lot less than anticipated, I ended up sanding some pivot points.

Primer paint
At this stage I'm between getting my own primer or supplied from auto industry.
Options are Spray max 2k epoxy primer spray can OR generic brand 2k primer + thickener + thinner with a spray gun.
Wet sand the primer with 800 or 600+800grit after 24hrs.

It wasn't really an issue, just some elbow grease to smooth the primer i ended up only sand with 800 grit.

Base coat
This is actually the easiest options since I will be quite happy with my jeep's metallic silver.
I can also use some extra shine for the color, for deeper metallic effect. Any idea would be appreciated.
However I'm not sure about 2 color coatings or 1 coating?

Base coat aka color, this is where things get excited to look at.
I didn't participate this stage but according to the painter it took about 3-4 coats to hide the primer.
All coats applied on each other 10 minutes interval.
I find a paint shop and made a custom color paint, but it looked different than what it should.

Clear Coat
I decided to go with auto industry clear coating since it is pretty durable and spraymax 2k clear coat cost a lot compared to auto spray gun option.
Also Does this stage require 1 coating or 2 coatings?

This is, I believe where paint guy fucked up the whole process. They didn't put much attention and fucked up the looks. It took 5-6 coats to make it reasonably good look. Always one spot was missing... This was due to the poor preparation no stand just hanging the pieces and it was either too low or too high.

Visually it is 7/10
Smooth finish 3/10
Durability 9/10
It took more clear coats than it should and arguably it's more durable.

Aftermath
It only cost me 30$ but i would pay 100$ for better finish.
Second choice i would completely DIY the project and do a proper job.

I added a sneak peek of the color will add more pictures later