Quote from: turboenterprise on March 16, 2015, 06:46:40 PM

I'd email Peter but I think he changed jobs.

Not to derail your build thread.. but huh? No more Peter? He is the contact that most use.

Peter left xmiplay and started a new company. The new company isn't totally ready yet, but he's working on it.

I don't know if he still handles the last orders for xmiplay, but you can contact him on his new email/skype:
Email: petercycles@foxmail.com
Skype: peterxu1206

I'll take one. Mine never felt secure to me for some reason.. I like the idea of being able to utilize the set screw.

The nut on my 256 also never felt secure. 9 of 10 the nut is loose after a ride. Now I made it more secure by taking an old inner tube, cut a circle with diameter of 2 cm, made an incision in the middle and put the nut in. And then I put the nut on his place. Now it's secure enough and the last three rides it didn't came loose.

It's not a beautiful solution, but it works perfect for me.

Canyon bike are very nice and good looking bike. My father in law has one. It's really good quality.
I went for a chiner bike, but if I didn't, I definitely go for a canyon bike.
A canyon bike with almost the same specs as my chiner costs almost the same.

A  picture from an earlier post in this topic.

You need some extra shims/washers between your lock ring and the top cap. I had the same issue.
Now, when you tighten up the headset, you're pressing the top cap on your frame. With the extra shims, the top cap is pressing on the lock ring and on the bearing. The top cap, which have a rubber ring beneath, should move freely. There should be little space between the frame and the top cap (with the rubber ring between).

So, find some shims, install them and try again. When you think it's okay, squeeze your front brake, lift your rear wheel a little, and move your bike, try to find the last wiggle.

Looking good!! Do you know the total weight ?

You need for the rear four 6902-2RS bearing and for the front two.
6902 stand for a certain dimension/size (15*28*7 mm) and the 2RS for two rubber seals. There are also 6902-ZZ available and these bearings have steel seals. And there are of course bearing without seals.
You need the 2RS bearings.
On AliExpress they are really cheap and maybe not the best quality but for 0,85 dollar each

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-10-pcs-6902-2RS-Deep-groove-ball-bearing-bearing-steel-15-28-7-mm-free/1756101484.html

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.