Agree, typically 180/160 is a popular combination.  Although, I do know some people who don't want that much braking ability on the front wheel for fear of going over the bars.

Really, these people need a training in the basics of a mountainbike.
When using only your front brake, it takes 1/3 of the braking distance compared to only using the rear brake. For those that don't believe this, try it at home. Go to a green grass field, put a pion/pilon on the field. Ride/race towards the pion, use only your front brake (blocking wheel isn't bad). then again, with the same speed, ride to the pion, use now only your rear break. Now you'll see the difference. Now you can imagine what it will do with you braking distance when using both brakes.
One remark, when using your front brake, put have to put your ass after your saddle (basic technique) otherwise you will make a faceplant .

It's so much easier/nicer to ride when you possess ( <-- correct word?) the basic techniques (climbing, braking, surplace, taking drops, etc)

Looking good!!! Like the stealth look. Duh, got the same look on mine.
Wondering, why are you riding 160-160 rotors? Here in the Netherlands, it's common to ride 180mm rotors on the front and 160mm on the back. It gives so much (overall) brake power.

Found Art's Cyclery on youtube and wanted to share this with you.
There're some nice and clear instructions about:

How (Not) To: Lube Your Bike


How (Not) To: Internal Cable Routing (really useful tips)


How (Not) To: Quiet Creaky Bikes with (VitalMTB)


How to Adjust Shimano Rear Derailleurs (very complete explanation)


etc etc

Video overview: https://www.youtube.com/user/wwwartscyclerycom/videos

Please don't worry, Peter told me last week his wife is pregnant and he need to take care of his wife and that takes time and got higher priority. Please understand that. But you can also contact Jason or Bert if you can't wait. They're also available on skype.

Okay, next (big) problem.

It's not very clear in the last picture, but the FD is in the lowest position. In this position, the chain should be on/above the smallest chainring, but it is now on/above the biggest chainring.
I looks like I need some spacers on the crank And that's not what I want, because the chainline would be horrible, It already make noise when the RD is on the biggest cog and on the front on the biggest chainring. It would be worse.

It now time to going to sleep. Take a good look tomorrow. ... not happy now ....

Well thanks for keeping us updated.

I was a mod on a forum long ago and I remember how crazy the spam got sometimes. Extremely annoying! And quite a bit of work to keep up with.

Thank you, it's almost a full job to get rid of this junk.

Thnx, coz 32t is to small in the Netherlands Otherwise I'll just ride with a double, but I would like 1x because of the weight....

If you go for a double, you need a SRAM XX S2 direct mount down pull front derraileur. The Shimano XT works, but doesn't very nice.
See http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=296

Nice update ! It's always a pleasure to read your extensive updates (in this topic and in your Barn Burner 2014 topic).

Or maybe drill out the stops and run a cable housing throughout add others have done. I'm nervous to try this though.

Don't be nervous, it's not that difficult. The only difficulty is getting from the rear to the bottom bracket because there're some blocks on that way. You have to put some effort in finding the right way for the hose, but it's not impossible.

The highlight of the day was the hipster at the next tent over telling me just how light his SS, rigid bike was at just above 19 lbs and how his titanium frame has been awesome and had only cracked twice (!).  I thought to myself, I have gears and a suspension fork and my bike is only 1.5lbs heavier!

Smile! And you had more fun with building you bike