A couple of answers for you in no particular order.
My current full squish (Evil Following MB) climbs better than my hard tail on 90% of the terrain I ride. Anything that isn't smooth, and the FS does better. Lots of rocky, rooty and rutted technical climbs where the FS does much better because it is so much better at maintaining tread contact. Set the suspension up correctly and I doubt you'd miss your HT on anything but the smoothest climbs.

 I have never used the lockout, even on the street or smooth fire roads. However, my XC racing buddies use remote lockouts and both swear by them.

Carbonda shows 150 g difference for the SL in size M. I doubt you'll get 200 on an XL and even if you did, you could probably save more weight spending that money elsewhere.

This bike will shock you with how much better it feels going down than the typical XC HT. The geometry gives it so much stability. It's not an enduro, but drop the seat and point it down and have fun.

Thanks a lot for your input! Just as i thought it would be. Anyway, I'll stick to the lockout for asphalt roads and finish line sprints
It will alredy help a lot if i feel confident to try on my "i dont dare"-Passages. I think that's what i can expect from this bike. If it shocks me, i'll be ok with that.
Only tight corners might remain a problem, but one can't have everything.

In conclusion, i guess i will wait for my 300 h overwork to be payed at the end of the year and convert that into a new bike
Until then, i'll think about a nice color to have the frame painted. I remember some some candy red anywhere in this thread...

Finally, you won't hit 11 kg with a dropper unless you have lots of really lite parts already, friends who will sell you really lite parts on the cheap or you spend a bunch of money. Limited budget and lite weight don't really go together.

Limited budget is a relative term I thought about 3500€ (~4150 USD) and if it gets 200 bucks more, that's no big deal.
Also keep in mind that i don't think about a mini-enduro to do huge bikepark airtimes. So there's no need for bulletproof-style components.
With SID/SIDluxe, 1400 g wheelset based on chiner rims, Sram GX groupset, Shimano XT Brakes, OneUp Seatpost and Stuff like Handlebar, Saddle and Pedals coming from AliExpress, my spreatsheed says 3600 € and 10900 g at this point. Even with tubeless milk. Only thing that's missing by now is the shifting cables.
So i think it's not impossible - and i don't cry if the result is 11.1 kg.

Currently i wonder if Gripshift & Twistloc will fit with current Shimano brakes... i saw some Pics that don't look too well. Looks like trial & error, i guess.

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

Yes, i am totally aware that the FM10 has more travel and is heavier than what i think of. But, by now the only suitable frame i found is the ICAN P1, wich i dont like too much. So i'm thinking about alternatives Maybe i will go for 150 mm instead of 130. Better having without needing something, instead of needing and not having it.
(in case i opt for a trailbike, it will be a budget build anyway... so weight cannot be my fist concern)

60 Bucks for a colour other than black sonds like a nice option. I'll keep that in mind.

Hi arrkaye,
how much does a paintjob cost additionally? 

In general, i see that Tan Tan and Seraph both claim a D-Type Front Derailleur can be mounted. But i don't see a mount für that purpose on the pictures. Is there some kind of adapter included or do you think it's wrong information?
And, if you choose to use 135 mm rear travel... does it still require a 150 mm fork or a shorter one? 150 mm is too much for my purpose, i think. I am merely thinking about building a ~130 mm Trailbike, but didn't see a fitting frame so far. Maybe take the FM10 and some lighter components?