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Messages - Joelk

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46
I have a Surly Bud in the front, and put quite a few miles on a Surly Lou in the rear.  For about the last two months I have been using a Vee Snowshoe XL in the rear.  All on Nextie 90mm rims.  The Snowshoe XL rolls better than the Bud, but the Bud has more traction and handles better.

Did you ride Wharton with Jim and his fatbike group last weekend?  I ride with them most weekends that I am in town.

47
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Wide road / Cyclocross rims
« on: February 25, 2015, 08:53:51 PM »
Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated.

http://www.mtbonline.co.za/downloads/Rolling_Resistance_Eng_illustrated.pdf

Seems to suggest wider and lower pressure are the way to go? I wonder if someone has done similar in mud?

If that were true, my fat bike running 3 psi would just about ride itself.  Guess what?  ;D

To be fair, I do run lower pressure on my road bike, sometimes as low as 80psi with 23mm tubeless tires, lower when I'm running the 28s, and it does feel nice, and doesn't feel slow, but it's still going to be a balancing act. Run what you want (except when rules dictate otherwise) and it's really not going to be a huge difference.
I think it all comes down to the surface.  I have found that my fat bike (4.8" tires) rolls easier than my 29er with 2.4" tires over areas with lots of wrist to forearm sized roots, or fist sized to baby head sized rocks.

I ride two rooty trails, one of which is very rooty where the fat bike is actually faster, and one that is relatively rooty where the times are the same on both bikes.  Of course the 29er is faster just about everywhere else.

I also live close to the Delaware river and I ride the sandy/rocky shoreline at low tide.  On the soft sand only the fat bike works, on the firm sand the 29er can move, but the fat bike is still faster.  Gravel sized rocks both bikes go about the same.  Fist sized the fat bike is faster/smoother.  When you start getting into baby head and bigger rocks I have trouble even riding the 29er while the fat bike keeps going until it gets really big/jagged when I do not have the trials skills to continue.

Thus, I would say look at where you want to ride.  The rougher the wider rim/tire I would run, on the other hand if it is smooth I would choose a more moderate rim/tire width.

48
29er / Re: Ip-036 build help
« on: February 25, 2015, 08:03:13 PM »
I have used Stans, Orange Seal, and Slime Pro.  Of those three Orange Seal sealed the best/quickest, and Slime Pro lasted the longest/dries the slowest.

So I have been setting up my tubeless (8 29er wheels and 4 fat bike wheels so far) with Orange Seal, but topping them off with Slime Pro as needed.  As long as you don't let it get all the way dried out this has resulted in no Stanimals, clumps or strings.  The only thing it has not sealed was a bad sidewall cut.

Edited to add: Sorry for the thread hijack.  I am going to say you will end up in the 24-25 lb. area.

49
Fat Bikes / Re: New IP-N019 fatty
« on: December 28, 2014, 10:45:45 PM »
That looks like a great frame!

It fixes all of the issues I had with the previous Chinese fat frames.

Now allwe need is a picture with it fitting a Surly Lou tire in the back to make sure.


50
Fat Bikes / Re: Crank for 120mm fat bike frame bottom bracket
« on: December 28, 2014, 10:30:38 PM »
120mm bottom bracket precludes the use of 1x 170mm next SL cranks on a 190/197 rear like I, and many others, have been running on 100mm bb frames (Borealis 190qr, then Borealis 197ta, frames for me).

ETA:  Sorry, I saw this in active topics and did not mean to post in a 120mm bb thread. 
That said, I think that the frame makers would be better off making 100mm bb frames as they can be spaced to 120 or used at 100.  I looked at Chinese fat frames and gave up as the 100mm bb frames did not fit 5" tires, such as the Bud and Lou, and the 120mm bb frames could not run 170  1x  cranks like my Borealis frame.

51
After The Ride / Re: Instruction video's and tutorials
« on: December 23, 2014, 03:30:19 PM »
If you ever order from Art's use code "save15" for 15% off of many items.

52
29er / Re: List of 29er Hardtail Frames
« on: November 27, 2014, 02:01:36 PM »
73mm

53
I just used a dab of clear silicone caulk.

54
29er / Re: IP-256SL Winter Build
« on: November 22, 2014, 03:23:20 PM »
On my 256 the top dropped right in and I was able to press the bottom in with firm finger pressure.

55
That's good! When will we see 29+ 256SL frame to match?
I like that idea!

56
29er / Re: Salsa fargo or Surly ecr frame
« on: November 12, 2014, 10:07:30 PM »
I would love to try a Chitanium 29+ but am afraid to be the first to try to explain 29+ to them.

57
29er / Re: Color thoughts for 057
« on: November 12, 2014, 09:48:40 PM »
Some of the bright colors look great, but just realize that they do not always hold up to uv/sunlight.  This thread has a lot of great color examples, but the linked post shows the potential downside http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/nextie-bike-carbon-rims-890669-post11519378.html#post11519378  With that said, I have dealt with Nextie four times now and have been very happy (Brian was my point of contact, but I always just ordered UD matte stuff).

58
One nice thing about the 100mm bottom bracket is that it allows me to use the Raceface Next SL crank for a 170 hub on my 190 hub bike with the 1x direct mount chainring flipped for good chain alignment with a lower Q factor.

60
I hope they eventually come out with the IP-010 in a 21".

I have a Borealis Yampa that I like, but I keep having trouble with the QR rear hub shifting and causing the tire to rub the left chainstay.  I would like to try the IP-010 so I could move to a through axle rear at a reasonable price (I could probably sell the Borealis frame and cover the cost).

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