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Messages - Takiyaki

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46
I think they are OK with being fringe as long as they can make some money. Seems like Chinertown type brands don't need OEM volume to stay in business.

47
All 4 of my EDS OX derailleurs have the removable batteries.   To date, the removable batteries last a long time, over 600 miles of riding for me with lots of shifting.

OTOH: Weird things have been happening.  Yesterday, I went out on a snow ride on a bike I haven't ridden it about a month.  The bike was shifting OK, but I though that I would swap to a charged battery to be sure that the battery on the bike might be low on charge.  I swapped to a supposedly fully charged battery.  It wouldn't shift. No lights.  Swapped to another battery.  This battery didn't shift the derailleur either.  Put the original one back one and rode, leaving the other 2 on their chargers.   Then swapped one of the freshly charged battery onto the derailleur and it worked.  Now I am wondering why 2 fully charged batteries were drained of power after sitting around on a shelf for a month after last being charged. 

Regarding the fixed battery.  I am sure you can put a routine in place where you use your Wheeltop app on your phone to check the % charge / # of shifts left.   If you see the battery is below your charge comfort level, you can top it off. 

I wonder too, if the magnetic charging cable charges the battery while the derailleur is in operation.  One could secure the charge cable to the frame and use a battery bank to charge the battery while riding.  (Anyone test this?)
Issue for me would be that batteries eventually die which would render the whole derailleur useless. I'm surprised nobody has used something like a 18650 cylinder battery. Slap a waterproof case in the down tube and put a charge port on the derailleur. Battery (or batteries) die, you go grab another one on Amazon or whatever. This is a deal breaker for me

48
There are a lot of open mold frames that... let's say "draw inspiration".... from big brand frames. The most obvious one is the SL7 and it's probably worth keeping a list of those with all their subtle differences, but I wanted to reference some others I've found and keep a thread going.

Inspiration: Canyon Endurace


Open mold versions: Velobuild VB-R-066/OG EVKIN CF-025



Notes: Velobuild available in rim or disc brake config. I think the Velobuild version is a good bit lighter than OG EVKIN's.

Inspiration: Cervelo R5


Open mold version: Tantan FM6x9 (609, 619, 629, 639)


Notes: the geometry is EXACTLY the same lmao. Also available in rim & disc versions as well as half vs fully internal cabling (I wanna say 639 = fully integrated).

I know the TT-X38 is "inspired by" the newest Scott Foil but I'm too lazy to dig all those photos up. But you get the gist. If I had the time I'd start a website to capture all this open mold data. Finding info is a real pain in the ass

49
All of these brands need photos of these frames built up (preferably in a range of colors and sizes)

50
Man this is deep. I am by no means a headset expert. But on my FM208, I loosen the stem bolts on the fork tube, then squeeze the fork and stem together with a long c-clamp (and wood block on the stem). That takes out all the vertical slack. Then I tighten the stem bolts. That has seemed to take out all the vertical slack. I admittedly did not put the bike together but I have taken the stem off a few times.

51
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TPU vs Latex innertube
« on: March 17, 2024, 07:56:39 AM »
I'm still torn. Latex is def cheaper and easier to install but for me they never held air for more than a day. I think they'd lose pressure on a long (for me) ride. I'm gonna try tubeless and see what happens

52
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TPU vs Latex innertube
« on: March 16, 2024, 03:40:26 PM »
I just realized my wheels are tubeless ready so I'm gonna give GP5K TLs a try. What's the advantage of latex/TPU tubes vs tubeless? Knock on wood I've got one flat in the last decade or so.

53
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TPU vs Latex innertube
« on: March 15, 2024, 06:18:06 AM »
I ran latex for a while (don't remember the brand but they were pink in a gray and red box). They were FAST with GP5Ks but could NOT hold air. They would deflate in about a day. I have installed extenders on all types of tubes so I don't think that was the issue but that was annoying. I have Continental butyl race tubes which are supposedly as fast but not really.

I heard something about putting baby powder between the tube and tire to reduce friction. But I may try tubeless on my next build to eliminate that extra friction entirely.

EDIT- there is a difference: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/top-3-fastest-tubeless-vs-tubes

For a slow poke like me 3W matters. And these are 17c tires (???). I'd wager the losses scale with tire size. I wouldn't want to do long rides on these though.

54
Someone squeezed a 30c in the road frame, but it's tight- https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=4245.0

And truthfully 28c is comfy enough. I'm also looking at the VB-R-066D which will easily clear 32c but isn't as cool looking or light (basically a store brand Endurace)

55
I like Tantan's fake S5 frame but I'm not sure whether to get the road version or the gravel version. I ride all road and am a recovering weight weenie so the FM6x9 appeals there. But I wouldn't mind running 30-32c tires and the higher stack/shorter reach of the GR029 has appeal. The frames look insanely similar built up as well:





I think the GR029 is about 300g heavier than the FM6x9. Again I ride all road and the roads here are pretty smooth. Looking to get wide gravel wheels that will make 28s bigger/softer as well. Is the clearance for the extra 2-4mm worth it for me?

56
This is the conundrum for me as well, though I am leaning towards a build. If I could buy a low end Canyon/Giant carbon frameset in a color I like for $1000-1500 I'd go that route. But getting a whole bike for $3K, then going through the rigamarole of selling and swapping parts... I'd rather just do a custom build. Money wise I'd wager it's the same but time and hassle wise going one way or the other is "cheaper".

Plus with Chinese bikes you can get custom paint for cheap which is increasingly important to me.

57
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« on: March 01, 2024, 08:07:01 AM »
hazzer where did you even come up with the idea for that paint job. So cool

58
It's still relatively aggressive IMO. Stack is about the same as TT length, snappy front end too.

59
I don't like proprietary seatposts or racy geometry but there don't seem to be too many options like that in the road space. Only ones I can think of off hand are the Velobuild 066 and Elves Eglath

I also don't need 50mm+ tire clearance as I don't plan on riding gravel/off road. Just want a comfy road bike. I saw the Airwolf YFR068, the artist formerly known as the CFR505 etc. Basically looking for a frame with ~40mm clearance and more stack than effective top tube (somewhere around 550 x 535, no longer than 540 ETT)

What is out there?

60
I wish the light frame had a round seat post. Tired of proprietary seat posts

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