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Messages - Serge_K

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481
Hard to tell apart from the VB GF002. I've built and ridden 2 of these, flawless.
Happy riding

482
Such a bummer that it doesnt take 32C tyres. It looks like a factor ostro, which takes 32C easily.

483
non integrated + stiff + narrow + cheap, you have aluminum. Wont be aero though. But i have a lot of friends who refuse riding carbon handlebars.
On aero, alu 36 or 38cm will probably make the whole system (you + bike) more aero than an aero 40cm bar. I dont think the drag of non integrated handlebars, given you have exposed cables anyway, matters too much. It would probably matter quite a bit with an integrated cockpit & full cable integration.

484
Yes, I am running the housing all the way to the R7000 FD. The cable housing is pushing against the FD stopper (as illustrated in the image documentation in my above post and my attached image here).
This is exactly the same principle as the Rear Derailleur, but the Rear Derailleur has a tension adjuster but works with similar principle; the housing is pushed against the RD cable housing stopper.

You just need to make sure to remove all the slack from the Front Derailleur cable before you tight it down.
Don't think too much about it. Just try it. It works guys!

This only works with Front Derailleur with a built in cable stopper like the Shimano 105 R7000 front derailleur.

Excuse my dirty bike in the images.

Wow, this is awesome. It means that the hole in the frame barely matters anymore. I spent so much time tinkering with the FD on these 4 bikes. Had i known, i'd have used your trick right away, and bought 4 of these 105 R7000 FDs. Also, apparently (as per some YT video), the SPCycle SP-053D has a weird FD hole, so your technique may also help that frame.

Bottom line, thank you, and you may consider posting a dedicated thread on your FD hack, because i believe that a LOT of people on this forum are having issues with setting up their mechanical FD when they get their new chinese frame.

485
I attached the price table for wheels from Lightcarbon too.
Does anyone here have experience with?

I have ordered 7 sets from Farsports over the years. I would suggest you speak with them, I think they're cheaper, and really doubt they're any worse. I've ridden their wheels in many situations where i'd straight up die if anything went wrong. They have been making great wheels for many years :)

486
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: June 19, 2023, 05:29:13 AM »
Will this frame clear 32c Panaracer GKs or GK SS?

Various comments on the forum saying 32C on the 177 is very sketchy. Which is a major bummer for me. I want to run 32C Conti 5000 on 32mm wide rims on my next road bike. I've ridden 28 and 32mm back to back, difference is very material, yet peak torque showed on YT there's no penalty using 32C, either rolling resistance or CDA, proving you're running wide rims (32mm)

487
Well, as title suggests, I'm right now between two wheelset, carbon spoke wheelset but with rim (nipple) holes vs standard Saphim CX Ray but without rim holes, so which one do you think should be stiffer and more responsive?

Carbon spokes will be much stiffer. And presumably, responsive.
My wheels use sapim cx ray, because i'm 80kg, i like comfort, and i'm the limiting factor, not my gear.
Bear in mind that carbon spokes are much more likely to break, changing them may be an adventure, and so on.


488

For the 105 R7000 mechanical front derailleur, what works for me with these frames is running the cable housing all the way to the FD's cable stopper (see attached image for reference). Then I use any of these clips from Amazon or AliExpress for the cable housing/frame body interface.
I use the 105 R7000 FD for all my mechanical build no matter the RD or crankset. Cheap and very easy for me to work with.

Hi, do you have pics of actual builds? Very curious about your method, because i've built 4 chinese frames recently, and the FD has been far the biggest issue every time. I thought the housing had to push against the frame, then comes the cable. But it sounds you're running the housing all the way to the FD.
Please enlighten us, i think a lot of people are having issues with their FDs
Thanks!

489
Current build plan is:
-standard Seka frameset+bar+Token BB (1054gr frame, 370gr fork, 325gr bar, 165gr post, 105gr BB)
-LTWOO R9 Disc carbon (11-speed) groupset (1167gr brifters+derraileurs+calipers, 200gr cables+housing)
-Magene P325CS powermeter crank (730gr)
-YBN SLA-110 chain (249gr)
-SROAD one-piece CNC cassette (230gr)
-|||PRO brand rotors (308gr)
-ICAN Aero 35 disc wheels (1355gr)
-GP5000s tires (280gr x2)
-Specialized power S-works carbon saddle (160gr)
-No-name Supacaz imitation handlebar tape (50gr)

According to my calculations given quoted weights for everything is estimated at 7100 grams. We'll see about that! I'm guessing going from a M to a L will add ~200g+, and the accumulated error on quoted weights will add up to over ~300gr, so I would be very happy if it was anywhere close to 7.5kg dry.


You're probably missing thru axles (not trivial), headset bearings & compression plug (measured mine at 122g) either tubes (80x2 for latex, 30x2 for TPU) or sealant (100+x2), maybe tyre insert, tubeless valves. Not all frame sellers include headset bearings & thru axles. Wheel sellers typically dont include thru axles.

490
Im running 25’s. I got PLENTY of room. Probably could run 32’s comfortably, but i have no desire to find out as its a road bike.

Having ridden back to back Conti 5000 28 and 32 on similar spec wheels, i'd say, don't dismiss 32C. Peak Torque has tested that assuming your rims are extra wide (32mm, presumably), there's no aero penalty, and no rolling resistance penalty to running 32.
The difference in comfort is so stark that i'm looking for a road bike that can comfortably run 32C.

How's the bike been holding up? I like the design, Trek is one of the rare brands that's not making "everybody else's frame".

491
Very pretty paint job & bike, congrats!
How much did you pay for the frame with shipping?

492
Very nice. Looks indistinguishable from a VB GF002, doesnt it? How much did you pay for the frame w shipping?

493
E-Bike Frames & Builds / Gravel Bafang mid-drive e-bike frames?
« on: May 22, 2023, 10:43:20 AM »
Hello pretty people,
Are there gravel frames that take a Bafang mid drive motor?
I'm thinking 40C tyres, relaxed road bike geometry, Bafang BBS02 or similar mid-drive motor, and the battery somewhere.
I don't want an electric mountain bike, but i'd like a road bike that can take 40C tyres for comfort & versatility.
Thanks!

494
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Scott Foil replica
« on: May 16, 2023, 05:33:44 AM »
I mean how likely is it that they would produce Syncros branded bottle cage bolts for a fake frame? Can’t be sure. But I think the photos are showing the real thing.

if i were making fakes... it's one of the cheapest ways to make your stuff look legit. Or maybe the bolts are legit. I was in China eons ago, there were shops selling branded paper bags and branded logos in various formats. Some with authentic spelling mistakes, it was hilarious. There's also a big market for authentic branded bags and boxes, precisely because it's cheap, but gives a veneer of authenticity to the fake product.
Thieves are often creative people.

495
My 5 cents. Aero road bikes now look very similar, with maybe Trekk as an exception. Look at Spec, Cannondale, Scott, BMC, their aero all rounder road bikes look alike.
Henceforth, I'd say buy a velobuild type frame, like the 177. It's heavily inspired by current trends, but it doesnt parade as a knock off. It's illegal in most places afaik to buy fake goods, but you can't be blamed for buying proven engineering. Customize your frame however you want, but don't slap a Specialized logo on it.
I wouldn't buy a frame that is marketed as fake specialized or a fake pinarello, because it's illegal, and maybe more importantly, you shouldn't trust thieves & crooks, so why risk your life riding something crooked people sold you?
I also believe it is very clear that the fake frames are NOT the same as the real deal, they dont just happen to be extra units, all else equal, from the same production line. While that might happen sometimes, most of the time it's going to be different QC, materials, moulds, factories, and so on. 

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