"#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around."

Just a note specifically for #4...

Yeah, TanTan sent the same red and blue bearings, but I can't remember which one was thicker. I did notice the different thicknesses though, but just ran with one combination, I think thicker on the bottom and thinner up top, before switching them around.

In the end, it didn't matter. It was still pretty sloppy either way, which is why I tried different headsets with different bearing thicknesses. Just wish I would have known about microspacers from the get go. I finally took it in to my LBS. The tech there suggested the microspacers, thankfully.

I wonder if crescent shaped "C" shims are easily available to purchase. Regular shims are fine for externally routed cables, but obviously won't work with internal cables without disconnecting them first. Beings able to simply "slot" them in place would be a game changer.

I also posted this in the VB-177 thread. Figured a brand new topic/thread would better raise awareness.

I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.

#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap (dust cover).

#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap (dust cover) too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the dust cover, make all the difference.

#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap/dust cover will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.

#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.

The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.

Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap

EDIT - From the Carbonda 1056 thread: "In general these washers are between the slotted ring and the dust cover.
When you compress the bearings, the dust cover sometimes rub the top of the frame.
Adding one or more washers add some space to have only the seal making a light contact with the frame."

Having also used both carbon-bladed spokes (Hyper 65s) and Sapim spokes (Farsports Ventoux and Scribe Wheels)...

I can say yes carbon spokes are lighter and marginally stiffer, but aren't as readily available if you need to replace a spoke. And like 1Sigma said most people don't ever push their frames/wheels to the limit to actually benefit from the marginal gains.

Hello Patrick, can you give a comparison of your experiences between the Dengfu and the Velobuild?
Thanks

The design and execution of VB-177 is focused on being super lightweight, while the Dengfu R12 is an aero frame and essentially a clone of the SL7. Different frames for different uses.

I'm happy to answer any specifics questions, as I've found this helps potential customers more than broad general comparisons.

LoL has anyone else been harassed by them on Instagram yet? I think they've gone quiet.

The classic headset play issue is with the separate handlebar/stem combo, because the stem's top cap design is flawed.

Is there also a known issue with the integrated handlebar too?

The wheelset is all good and fine, but what's with the creepy doll in the background?

Ah, you must not be American and/or not have a female in your home. Samantha Doll by American Girl

These wheels are quite lightweight. My Dengfu R12 (size 54) now weighs only 7.4kg without bottle cages, pedals, or GPS mount. Are they expensive? Yes. Do they perform well for the money? Absolutely. Are they overkill for a $600 USD Dengfu frameset? Probably only if you aren't planning to use these wheels for their ultimate intended purpose.

Farsports Ventoux C4 EVO Wheelset
Depth: 45mm
Internal Width: 19mm
External Width: F28/R26mm
CeramicSpeed Bearings
SAPIM CX Spokes
The hub is very similar to DT Swiss, except stiffer laterally (according to FarSports marketing team).

Advertised Weight: 1440g
Real World Weight: 1372g

YouTube Review: Farsports Ventoux C4 EVO - Calling All Crit Racers