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Messages - SportingGoods

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61
I still can see how the head tube can be cracked like this during shipping. It would take a massive blow as frames are always packed with thick layers of dense bubble wrap (I have received 3 frames from China). This is not good. I mean that with such a strong hit you can't tell if there are other internal, hidden, damage.
What I can't explain is the scratching on that same hit. With bubble wrap you can crack the frame but it can't be scratched. That would tell me that the hit happened before packing.

All that said, this is not acceptable. I would not be happy with a partial refund. I would only accept to change the frame (even if I had to pay again for shipping).

I also want to mention that I really recommend American Express payments. I know this is rarely an option with Chinese vendors but they offer the best protection I've seen. I've been fully re-credited of what I paid for crap carbon rotors when the vendor ignored me. Banks are powerful (too much!), they just took the money back from the vendor :)

62
After The Ride / Re: Can my daugther have your vote please?
« on: January 05, 2017, 02:29:46 AM »
Done!

I had the same question recently. My son is almost 11 now and still a lot slower then me (running, biking), but I really wonder how long it will take for me to fall behind. It's tough for him cause I really train hard these days :)

63
I use to snowboard over Christmas break but there is still no snow here... so I've been cycling! It was really cold (frozen road over bridges, and even a nice icefall), but it was really nice cycling in a different place (road bike).






64
I've pulled the trigger on a jersey/short  :)
As you mention, sizing is difficult! I looked at buyers' pictures and most show something I consider way too large. I like my jersey and shorts to stretch on my muscles ;D so I picked a size down from their recommendation (something that fits the measurement of what I use).
I'll post a picture, if I dare, the model I picked is a hit or miss. It could look odd if fitting is poor (no, it's not the skeleton one  :P). If it looks good it will most likely be my next Strava picture  8). If not that's only 25$ down the drain (or a gift to someone I don't like).

I also noticed many Jawbreaker sunglasses for 15 bucks, 5 lens included. If I didn't already get 2 pairs of cycling sunglasses I would try one pair!

65
29er / Re: Help! XC Full Suspension build frame choice
« on: December 22, 2016, 09:19:24 AM »
"Aggressive" is confusing to me. Please clarify so we can help. Do you mean aggressive steering, very lively and dynamic bike? Or do you mean a bike that can handle aggressive trails, stable over high speed downhills?
This would be two very different direction!

66
I've tried pedals. As you mention they are knockoff, not brand product relabelled. They are lower quality and 3x cheaper.
I've tried Ti rotor bolts. For about 1$/piece they are just fine to me. You can't really tell there is something wrong till they break :)

I think in general, all those Aliexpress parts are lower quality. Lower quality materials, lower grade of mechanical tolerance.

I consider now some jersey/shorts. Less then 25$ the pack!

67
Alpha was never clear about pads in their communication. Before purchase I could only read they recommend "ceramic", "ceramic-organic" and "no metal". The problem is that "ceramic-organic" does not exist (at least I've never seen such thing), "ceramic" contain metal most of the time (so it is no good).
After purchase they finally replied to me, ignored my questions and just sent me that:
Quote
1-The Alpha RS disks are compatible with ceramic or organic ceramic pads; they should never be used with neither a metallic or synthetic compound nor Kevlar.
2- The disk was created to be used exclusively in six lock systems.
3- The disk can be mounted in any direction, although it is advisable to follow the instructions on our "use and rotor rotation" video.
4- The 6 screws applied on the disk must be of a tightening torque of up to 6 Nm.
5-When installing the brake pads, make sure the brake pad covers the entire ceramic track length.
6-For a safe installation and maintenance, make sure you keep your fingers away when the disc is operating.
7-Like any brake disk, it may reach high temperatures, be sure not to touch the disk when you get off after driving, note the disk can burn. To handle the brakes, make sure the disks are cold.
8- Before driving, check the disk and the braking system to assure all breaking operations are working properly.
9- When the disk is worn and it is 1.6 mm thick or less or when it is damaged or broken, the disk must be replaced.
10-Before driving, make sure that your brake pads are 0.5 mm thick or more
11- We suggest replacing the disk after 3 years of use or when observing a wear like the mentioned in the point 8.
12- Keep the disk away from grease and dirt, since these can cause the brakes fail.
13- It is advisable to use the brakes simultaneously and only when it is necessary, never
overheat the brake pad.
14-it is mandatory to use ventilated pads to ensure the proper operation of the disk.
15-Always perform a test drive when the pads are recently installed, we recommend to drive at least 40 km.
16- It is dangerous to jump with the brakes applied before reaching the ground, it can cause some damage.

So, now you see #14: ventilated brake pads are mandatory! Even more difficult to find. Impossible. So I emailed back, sending a link to 2 pads (on a Spanish website to make sure they understand). The first one (ceramic, not ventilated), the second organic and ventilated. They dropped one line to say I need to use the second one. Oh... so now, organic is recommended ?!?
I also ask a link to the video mentioned on #3. They never replied to me.

Also, they never got back to me since I asked for my money back. I had to ask AE to block the payment.

Honestly, whatever the pad you use these rotors will fail. Looking into these in more detail, they are not ceramic discs. Ceramic brakes, it does not delaminate.

A Spanish MTB website has also tested the rotors, same results after 2 rides!
http://esmtb.com/2016/12/16/discos-espanoles-ultralight-carbono-demasiado-bonito-para-ser-cierto/

These are just good for the trash. I believe it is made of carbon sheet and resin (maybe simply epoxy!).

68
Thanks for the link to potentially working Carbon discs but... I'll look into metal disc for now :)

I just want to mention that I recommend American Express credit card. Just got them on the phone and they have already locked the paiment. I just need to email them proof of communication with vendor and proof that the product is dangerous and they are going to contact the vendor on their own. Anyway, I keep my money!

69
Test is over, and I've already requested my money back  :-[
For those who don't speak Spanish they can use Google translate.
http://www.foromtb.com/threads/discos-de-freno-de-carbono-alpha-rs-cuidado-con-ellos.1366597/

Not taking any risk. Lucky I paid with my American Express card, if they don't send the money on their own I'm protected 90 days past the purchasing day.

70
Test completed. I don't recommend Carbon rotors.

Not a catastrophic failure but I understand now why rotors are made of metal. That's because metal can be bent. As I mentioned and showed in my pictures, the rotors are perfectly flat, on the table. But once mounted on the hub they are out of true. I used my torque wrench to tighten the bolts evenly at 6 Nm (recommendation from Alpha). Could be that my hub is not perfectly true or that when you compress the rotor the constraint causes warp. Don't know. The only thing I know is that because it is made of Carbon you can bend it. You just can't fix it. Period.

They don't rub badly, but they do. I could certainly massage them to stop rubbing (by a perfect alignment of the caliper and some magic spells) but this is not a robust solution.

Then, they seem to stop me (tried the front brake of my son's bike). I guess there is some breaking in that needs to happen, but they are a bit noisy (dry) and vibrate. Hopefully this is just because they are new.

So, again, I don't recommend Carbon rotors. Never, ever would I use these on a MTB. You hit a rock and they most likely break, leaving you w/o brake. I'll try to fit them on my road bike once I have my carbon wheels built, but if I had the option to send them back I would.

71
After The Ride / Re: unno bikes
« on: December 16, 2016, 03:14:16 AM »
Soooooooo nice. These are not Chiners and the cost matches the beauty of these frames. Love the Full Sus but it's over my budget.

72
So... last night I got started to prep everything for a quick test today. I pull out the rotors, torque wrench, T25 fitting. I take the front wheel off the road bike and... Oops, those are Centerlock  :-[
I get 5 pair of wheels at home. 3 are centerlock hubs (I prefer this design, but moved away because the offer is not as large as 6-bolts). 2 are 6-bolts: the hubs to build my carbon tubular (un-built) and my MTB wheels. One more with my son's bike (24" MTB).

So, I get 2 options to test. The rear wheel on my MTB (front is 180 mm), or my son's bike  :o
You already know that this test will be poor, at best. I'll try anyway, not sure yet which test will tell me more about the quality of the rotors. Or... I mount my son's wheel on my road bike. It would fit (remember it's a 29" MTB frame :) ).

73
Hold on any purchase till I confirm it is OK! I have just received the rotors. I plan to test it tomorrow, but it's so cold and the road are so frozen that I don't plan on hard braking  :o
So far so good, rotors came very quickly from Spain (1 week), they are perfectly flat, nicely cut and they weight 41 g (160 mm) as announced. The big question now, do they actually brake!!

Nice box


Interesting marketing claims on the back of the box (I hope it is 100% true!)


The rotors!


Close-up


As flat and true as can be


1.9 mm thick, as announced


82g the pair



74
29+ & 27+ / Re: New CarbonSpeed 27.5+/29+ Frame (CS-496)
« on: December 12, 2016, 04:03:03 PM »
Sorry I got confused on the cranks, the frame needs BB92 bottom bracket. There are so many standards that it's really confusing! not sure what you call PF92 cranks. A BB92 BB takes any standard crankset (the same as BSA 68 and 73 mm), it's just that with BB92 the bearings are inside the frame when they are outside for 68/73mm BB.

Then, I'd say that you will not want to use regular 29" tires on such a frame. Don't entertain this possibility. Once you'll get into the + size you'll just stick to it, trust me. Pick whatever rims width you want but not for such a wrong reason.
For your reference, the Trek Stache 9.8 uses wide rims: 41mm internal 46mm external.

75
29+ & 27+ / Re: New CarbonSpeed 27.5+/29+ Frame (CS-496)
« on: December 12, 2016, 02:36:29 AM »
Good choice!  ;)

Which wheel size do you plan? 27.5 or 29?

    carbon rims: 40 or 50mm? Peter recommended 40mm. With 3.0" tires and Boost Fork I'd be tempted to go 50mm. The reason I picked 40 is because I started with regular axles (front and rear). The only reason to pick 40 mm now would be weight. Other then that 50 mm would fit better with 3.0 tires.
    crankset: do regular PF92 cranks fit? I have a 180mm X9 PF92 lying around here, as I'm 193cm tall, I like long cranks. Don't know! I use BB86.
    tires: which 3.0 tires are good, price does matter ;) I like Nobby Nic. But I've tried Maxis Rekon+ that are great rear tires if you don't have too much mud.
    drop seatpost: same question, price does matter ;) Reverb Stealth, what else?!

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