If VeloBuild can somehow provide a similar level of unique design, QC, fit and finish with future releases as they've done with this CX frame...this will solve a lot headaches and perhaps even regain customer trust.

Bike build and first official ride video below.

YouTube Search Title: My VeloBuild CX-002 Is FINISHED! - Total Winner

The Fuse is a relatively slack hard tail. What specific geometry measurement drove you to a M? Was it wheel base only?

I have ridden my hardtail a lot this spring and it is a size smaller than my 936. One thing my riding buddies noticed is that I take less risks on my hard tail. I take the B line a lot, navigating around obstacles or high consequence features.

The 936 wants to go straight. It begs you to feather the brakes and seek the apex at speeds you would never even consider on a hard tail. You want the longer wheel base to provide confidence in cornering. To provide the counter balance to your body getting really low and into the bike.

Get the Large.

Before you cut the bars, move the grips and all of the controls in 10mm on either side and go for a ride. Focus on keeping your hands on the new position and see how it feels. Once you've cut them, you can't go back.
I presume your seat is already as far back as it will allow?

Partly I agree, but cutting your bars is a bad advise if people have a wonky feeling, it will get worse. When tight corning is your problem sizing up won't help either, it makes it worse. Probably it's your skills...it needs to be turned more like a motorbike in titght cornes, lay the bike down instead of you.

And other thing, light compression damping with your length could also be an issue if you're +++kg's. The wont be supportive in cornering, so maybe using less sag?

Good luck

It is built !







From a quick tour around the block, the first impressions are great.
Feels light, stiff, agile to turn and I love its ultra-flashy look compared to my other black bikes

Some doubts or issue I had during the build:

• Straight pull hubs & spokes:
  I thought the hubs were two cross, while they were 3 cross.
  The ERD was 593mm instead of the 590 announced, that would have made a difference too.
  So I had to return and reorder a set of spokes.
  They were the easiest wheels I ever built.
  And the lightest at 1218g(Ultralight 29er rims from Peter, CX-Ray spokes, SAPIM alloy nipples, and Novatec hubs D411CB/D412CB.
  The rear hub freewheel is dead silent ! And without a front derailleur, this is a very silent bike. Will need a bell !
   
• Tires:
  One of the most complex choice to me was about the tires for a gravel.
  There doesn't seem to be a best solution.
  Either you want to ride more on hard or soft terrain, and need appropriate tires.
  So in the end I took them light and mixed. The Maxxis Rambler 40mm.
  They were surprisingly easy to setup tubeless on the internal 19.6mm rims.
  Mount. Inflate with the compressor. Pop/Pop. Done.
   
• The axles:
  I ordered a pair of Hardlite axles on ebay.As another Carbonda owner did( although poorly detailed ).
  They looked good but in fact were not compatible.
  The front 15x100 was an MTB one. Road ones are shorter, 125mm long axle.
  So I took a ROCK SHOX Maxle Stealth 15x100 with 1.5mm pitch.
  The rear drive dropout is not threaded, but need a nut, like the DT Swiss E-thru axle.
  I have a temp solution for now, but will find a M12x1.5mm nut somewhere to put on the Hardlite rear.
   
• SRAM Red Etap:
  Using etap without front derailleur, is not a problem.
  11x36 cassette(CX1 Cassette PG-1170) with the wifli version of the rear derailleur is not an issue either. The capacity of the derailleur is 28T.
  The conversion of my two ring crank(with hidden bolt) to a single CX1 chainring went without issue.
  The Titanium bolts are from Ali. And used the hidden screw that came with the ring. The 2mm washers were useless.
  I rotate with 3 chains,  the SRAM PC-1170
   
• Brakes:
  I didn't have the bleeding edge tool to bleed the brakes(damn SRAM to add yet another nozzle).
  So, I was extra careful when cutting the brake hose and route them through the frame.
  And not add air to the system.
  Setting the lever to have the nut vertical and adding some DOT liquid in it before remounting everything.
  It worked.
  The internal routing was very easy. A white tube was there in the frame to guide the rear hose. And there are holes in the fork for the front.
  Unfortunately I cut the front hose a tad to short( my first road bike bar... ), it is quite ok but sad.
  I was scared by taping the bar too, but it went well. I hesitated a long time between black and the yellow, but returned the black.
  And I didn't receive the brake disc from Ali yet, so I've temporarily put some used ones I had.
   
• Design blues:
  Just for the aesthetics. When I see now all these useless black holes and screw, I could have ordered the frame without them. I saw later it was possible.
  Carbonda provide a set a various plugs/end caps but they didn't think as minimalistic as this build. No plug at the rear derailleur exit cable. No second rubber plug for the right shifter hose entry.
  Not sure I will ever use mudguards. And I replaced all screws with vinyl ones for now.

For the ones who care about this: it weights just over 7.4kg as it is on the pictures, and feels very light when holding it and riding it