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Messages - Patrick C.

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76
29+ & 27+ / Re: Can 29er MTB frame assembled with 27.5er wheels?
« on: April 29, 2016, 08:31:47 AM »
Tire is holding pressure fine this morning.  Looks like I need a larger syringe or some way to get the chunks in there- I'm using the homebrew blend from this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/best-tubeless-brew-406115.html , but the syringe I use to put it in through the valve won't suck up the largest chunks from the auto tire slime. 

77
I got good service from Bike24 on a recent order of hubs, spokes, and tires.  Prices are very good, and they let you order individual spokes for about the same price as other places that only sell by the box, so you can get the exact sizes you need and not have to buy extras if your wheels are less than 72 spokes.   Shipping to the US is around $20 and it took a week, but the shipping cost was more than offset by the savings on other parts. 

78
29+ & 27+ / Re: Can 29er MTB frame assembled with 27.5er wheels?
« on: April 29, 2016, 12:32:24 AM »
First ride was good-  I started with around 18 psi in the front and 20 in the rear, which was a bit too high as the bike was still too bouncy over roots and rocks.  I got a bit of tire rub in the rear after I hit the first rough section, and had to stop to re-true the wheel.  There is almost zero margin for error- I don't have a good set of feeler gauges to check, but I probably have about 1 mm on each side of the tire.  After a couple of adjustments I had no more problems with rub, and after lowering the pressure a bit it felt better going over roots and rocks- it's still rough, but the extra air volume definitely takes the edge off and smooths out the ride. 





The bike felt great- handling and grip were awesome.  Control is excellent- it feels very similar to the 29er wheels, but just a bit heavier to steer and lift the front wheel.

For the second ride (today) i decided to drop the pressure to 15 f /16 r which might be too low for me (200 lbs).  It felt great for the first two miles or so-  I was definitely taking rougher lines that I would have before.  So of course, I cut the rear WTB tire.  I did it on this rock, riding over the top of the three instead of going beside them.  As I hit the last one it didn't feel that bad, but I felt sealant spraying my leg right away.  The tire has a small puncture on the tread and a small cut on the sidewall near the bead.  There was no damage to the rim, but it looks like the tire got pinched all the way up to the rim.  I walked back to look at the rock and it doesn't look that bad- it has a bit of a sharp edge, but I must have been going at just the right speed over the wrong section.   







The tire wouldn't seal and I wound up walking back to the car, but it was less than a half mile so it was easier to just walk back than to try to put a tube in.  It held air, but any time I pumped it above 5 psi or so it would start leaking again.  Neither hole looks too bad, so I'm hopeful the latex will seal up overnight or the tire can be salvaged with a patch. 

So far I think the mid-fat tires are a nice change, but I'm not going to get rid of my 29er wheels.  They do look skinny to me now, though :)

79
29+ & 27+ / Re: Rode a 29+ Trek Stache
« on: April 22, 2016, 10:20:29 AM »
Nice!  Now I'm worried I'll have to buy a plus frame or bike :)

80
29+ & 27+ / Re: Can 29er MTB frame assembled with 27.5er wheels?
« on: April 21, 2016, 10:50:45 PM »
Forgot to add, service from Peter was excellent as always.  I received the rims 2 weeks after ordering.  Well packed and protected.

81
29+ & 27+ / Re: Can 29er MTB frame assembled with 27.5er wheels?
« on: April 21, 2016, 10:45:51 PM »
Well, they are definitely fatter, but I have not had a proper ride yet so I can't tell how much difference it makes.  I ordered the HR740C rims from Peter at xmcarbonspeed.com and built them up with XT M8000 hubs and DT Swiss Revolution spokes.  Front tire is the 2.8 Nobby Nic, and the rear is the 2.8 WTB Trailblazer.  I got the hubs, spokes, and NN tires from Bike24.com- good prices and everything was correct.  Shipping time was a few days longer than a US store would have been, but it didn't delay anything. 

I considered using DT Swiss 350 hubs for these wheels like I did on my first set, but in the end decided to go with the XT hubs.  The M8000 freehub is 36 POE and about 30 g heavier than the DT Swiss 350; the XT front hub is also about 30 g heavier than the 350 counterpart.  Of course the big difference is price- the pair of XT hubs was under $70, or a little less than a DT Swiss 350 front hub.  The trade off here is about 60 grams for about $200.  I have not taken the hubs apart yet, but I plan to open them up and make sure everything is greased properly before I take a real ride. 



Building the wheels was about the same as the first time- this is only my second set, with about a year and a half in between.  It wasn't fast, but I can brag to everybody at the trailhead that I built these wheels.  (of course, I won't be bragging if I'm walking back :) )   I didn't run into any problems.  The given ERD number of 545.6 is good (though I question the significant figures)- I measured it at 546.  I had to dig quite a bit to get all the measurements for the XT hubs, but eventually found what I needed in Shimano's online manuals.  I used the DT Swiss calculator and ordered spokes before getting the rims or hubs in hand so I was taking a bit of a risk, but all of the given measurements were correct so the spokes fit.  I used 1" wide Gorilla tape with a couple of inches overlap on each side of the valve.  This leaves a bit of a gap on the edges, but it completely fills the center channel.





The rims both weighed in at 455 g.  The hubs were 170 g and 320 g, finished wheels were 790 g and 945 g, or 1835 for the set.  Tape, valve stems, and skewers brought them up to 865 g and 1025 g.  The 2.8 Nobby Nic is 825 g, the Trailblazer is slightly more (a little over 900) but apparently I didn't write it down. 

The 2.8 Nobby Nic is tight in front with a 2014 Rockshox SID.  Same in the back with the Trailblazer- your wheels better be true and dished properly.  Getting the tires on the rim was hard, but not unreasonably so.  No swearing was required.  They take A LOT of sealant- I put about 4 oz/100 ml of homebrew sealant in each.  I started with 2 oz in the NN and it wasn't holding, but 2 more seems to have done it. 



Geometry seems to be pretty much the same- I'm not confident in my BB height measurement, but it is very close.  The front fork angle (measured with the level on my phone) is the same with the 27.5+ in the front and the 29 wheel in the back as with both 29 wheels, so the final tire circumference is very close to the same.

Continental 2.4 X-King and 2.8 Nobby Nic comparison-




It started raining before I could take a quick ride through the woods- maybe tomorrow.


82
Sales & Classifieds / Re: 256SL Frame * with problem *
« on: April 18, 2016, 07:53:08 PM »
Did you have to pay for the replacement frame, or just shipping and customs?

83
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: April 18, 2016, 11:58:05 AM »
The more I ride it, the more I like mine.  I have not done any rides longer than an hour and a half, but I had no soreness or other issues after that ride and it included a decent climb on a gravel road.  Shorts slide around easily on the smooth surface (no bunching up), and the edges don't bother me as much as they first did- there's no rim on the edge, so if you lean your leg against it to control the bike all the pressure is in a thin line (not sure if I just got used to it, or if I'm not leaning on it as hard).  I did have to torque down the rails quite a bit though- at 5 Nm I still got creaking and popping and had to tighten more.  I don't have a good torque number for where it's at now- not super tight, but definitely more than 5 Nm.

84
29er / Re: Can I get a complete bike?
« on: April 14, 2016, 02:10:50 PM »

budget is my priority.



carbon wheels


Ummm.... These two are just a bit at odds.  :) 

There will always be tradeoffs, but if you want a complete build on a budget I think your best bet is finding a closeout deal from an online seller.  You won't have any options on the build, but it probably will be the least cost route. Several have popped up over the last year or so.  Dengfu and a few other Chiner vendors do complete bikes, but I don't know how their prices compare or if you have any options on the build. 

85
29+ & 27+ / Re: Rode a 29+ Trek Stache
« on: April 12, 2016, 10:17:07 PM »
Even if the bike sucked, you could offer moustache rides to every lady at the trailhead :)

86
29+ & 27+ / Re: Rode a 29+ Trek Stache
« on: April 12, 2016, 01:18:43 PM »
How was the 27.5+ so different?   Not as easy to roll over stuff, or something about the geometry?

87
29er / Re: BLDG 29er for 800?
« on: April 12, 2016, 08:50:53 AM »
I think $800 is possible if you have some donor components to swap from another bike, or buy a lot of bits used.  If you want to buy everything new, you can probably get close to $1000 and probably come in around 25 or 26 pounds with a Deore groupset and decent wheels.  It depends on how long you want to look around for good deals.  You can always upgrade the wheels or components later, and the 057 will be a huge step up from a mart bike. 

88
Vendor Discussion & Reviews / Re: MTBR Forums Hacked
« on: April 08, 2016, 09:10:01 AM »
I too see an ungodly number of ads clicking in the MTBR forum.




Oh wait, it is working normally for me.  Just the normal barrage of ads.


edit- Spoke too soon.  I went direct to a forum page from my history and it worked, but now if I try to click anything else I get the popup spam.

89
29er / Re: CS-057 Gravel Grinder Build
« on: April 07, 2016, 09:59:43 AM »
I think I got some air in my rear brake line when I installed it- there was no resistance on the first 'pump' of the brake lever, but after a few squeezes it felt normal.  As long as you don't lay down the cable and let all the oil drain out, this is the worst thing that can go wrong- you wind up having to bleed the brakes at the handle, which is pretty simple for the Shimano ones.

90
29er / Re: CS-057 Gravel Grinder Build
« on: April 05, 2016, 10:10:34 AM »
On mine, I went with BSA (and 135 QR rear end to be totally retro :) ).

Routing the brake line really was that simple.  Some frames come with plastic "guide" tubes installed, but mine didn't.  I had no problems feeding the line through from the rear.

The shifter cable is setup to only use the outer sleeve outside the frame.  I did mine this way, and have had no problems with shifting for nearly 2 years now (XT front and rear, the 'end pieces' fit snugly in the frame, and you could seal them with silicone or similar if you like).  Others have drilled out the entry to run a full length housing, but unless you are always riding in mud and never wash the bike I would try bare cable first.

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