Second try

I finished my build. I took my time since this is the first time I've ever built up a bike. I did it entirely through watching YouTube videos, and I had fun doing it. There were some learning moments, but all and all it wasn't too tough. Thanks to everyone on here who gave advice and answered questions for me. And thanks to Eddie for giving a good deal. This group buy is what convinced me to try this project.

I am a budget mountain biker that is always looking for a good deal. This build reflects that. It done with budget parts. My build:

Frame: large in orange matte
Fork: Suntour Durolux (had the previous model Durolux and it was amazing. Hope this one is as good)
Rear shock: Manitou McLeod (got a great deal on this shock, always wanted to try one)
Drivetrain: Microshift Advent X (can't wait to try this on the trail)
Brakes: Shimano Deore with 180mm rotors (got these brakes cheap on AliExpress)
Dropper: PNW Loam dropper
Dropper lever: cheap one off AliExpress. (Kind of like the Wolf tooth knockoff I bought off there on my other bike)
Handlebar: Iveke carbon 780mm (I went 31.8 hoping it may be softer on the hands than 35mm)
Stem: Hussefelt 40mm (I had a brand new one from a long time ago sitting around)
Wheels: Silt AM
Tires: Specialized Butcher up front and Slaughter in the rear (wanted a fast rolling rear. I hope it has enough grip for around here)
Cranks: cheap Chinese IXF cranks. (There were knobs on the inside of the cranks that were hitting the rear triangle. I had to hacksaw them off to get it to work)
Chainring: Chinese oval ring (my first oval ring. Should be interesting)
Headset: used the on that came with it
Bottom bracket: also used the provided one
Seat: a Chinese knockoff of a Specialized Power
Pedals: Chinese knockoff of Kona Wah Wah 2 composite
Grips: ODI Dreadlocks (these are my favorite grips so far)
Frame protection: Lizards kind downtube protector and chainstay sleeve

That's it. Built with budget parts. Can't wait to see how it rides.

I posted on here how I was going to route the rear brake externally because I messed up and had to cut some taped up cable left in the seat stay. But I tried again and noticed it wasn't blocking, so I have the internal routing a go again. I bought cheap internal route kit off Amazon for fifteen bucks. It was a life saver. I don't think I could have got that brake cable routed without it. I wasted hours figuring out the other internal routing on my own with an magnet and a paperclip. It was brutal. The kit mad it so easy. I really wished I would have started with it.

I also couldn't get rid of play in my headset using the stock equipment. I had to buy a star nut and that solved the problem right away.

I learned a ton from this build.

Looks awesome. Nicely done. I'm almost done with my orange build.

I've run into one issue. I was trying to route a cable through the seat stay for the rear brake line. The plan was to route a shifter cable and then use it to guide the hose over it, then pull the cable out. I thought this may be asked than just doing the hose by itself.  But I was having trouble even getting the cable through. I got it through the front triangle fine but couldn't get it to come out the seat stay. The magnet I was using wasn't very strong, but it's all I had. I came up with the dumb idea of feeding another cable from the seat stay exit. So I had two cables coming from opposite directions, both meeting at the exits by the rear shock. The plan was to tape the cables together and then pull them both out the seat stay, then unhook them so I'd have one continuous cable through the frame to guide the brake line. I actually did this when routing the cable to the derailleur and it worked out great.

Well, I must have used too much tape or something when connecting the cables, or the exit hole in the seat stay is at a weird angle, because I could not get it to exit. I just could not get it out. I tried guiding it with a paper clip. I got a bit not the tape out and pulled it with pliers thinking that was it, but the tape just broke away in pieces. So, it was right there, and I figured I just had to pull harder. I pulled so hard the paint and a little of the hood by the seat stay exit hole snapped. Then I tried filing the hole a little bigger. No dice. Tried to go back out the other way, and it wouldn't come out that way either. I pulled so hard eventually the cable frayed and snapped. So I didn't want to damage the frame and eventually gave up. I clipped it off as short as I could.

So now I guess I'm going to go with an externally routed rear cable. That doesn't really bother me. Externally routed cables bother some people, but I've had several frames with them, and I don't even notice them looks-wise. I guess I could get a stronger magnet and try again. Maybe the cable will pass by the cut wording there. Maybe not. I just hope it doesn't rattle when I'm riding or I'll be looking for something to stuff in there to quiet it down.

It was a little stressful because the file was just long enough to where the handle had to go in the seat tube just a bit. So where I think I needed to file, I kept catching the handle on the top of the tube. Add to that the fact you're just hoping your filing the right spot way down in there. It wasn't fun, but I finally got it.

Can't wait to see it.

I saw those. I bought some .1mm shims. I'm guessing it won't make a difference if I use multiple .1 shims instead of one .3mm. at least I hope it won't make a difference.

Here are some 0.5mm thick:

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eyelet-bearing-kits/6mm-8mm-thru-bolts/SS8x17x0.5.html

The tabs on the frame might flex easily to take up the (very?) small gap. But if you start tightening the hardware and the tabs resist movement then you should find a shim, just depends how the carbon is laid whether it wants to flex or remain stiff.

You can also make your own fairly easy and they used to sell shim stock in various thicknesses but I don't know where you find it these days. But you can use a soda can cut open and laid flat, or copper gasket material, or even tar paper. Then use a hole punch to cut the inside and outside diameter, for the most professional look, though scissors can also be used if you take your time. If you don't have or can't find the right size hole punches, you can also find metal pipe with the I.D. of the hole you want to make. Then grind the outside circumference at a 45 to 60 degree angle until you meet the inside and form a sharp edge. Then use this to tap on the end and cut the material.

I also have 22.2mm spacer and should have the frame Monday and can see how well it fits and let you know if you don't have yours yet.

Frame flex shouldn't matter. The 22.2mm is the lower  eyelet that connects to the metal linkage. That thing feels solid. I don't think its going to flex. The .5mm bushings you sent in the link look good, but I think they may be too big. People have said 22.86 works, so 22.2 plus another two .5mm shims give a us 23.2mm. I'm thinking that might be too thick. The shims ar only two bucks so I may order some to try. Your soda can idea is interesting.

Thank you cybr