Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - FHS

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 15
76
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 30, 2021, 01:15:07 PM »
Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr  ?

Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....

Yeah, that's the headset I use. Iirc, I torque mine to around 4 or 5nm. I beleive 6 is the max.

77
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 28, 2021, 11:11:15 AM »
I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.

78
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: December 23, 2021, 02:00:42 PM »
Thanks for the video! Nice to see our own Snacks  commenting.  ;)


79
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: December 17, 2021, 07:07:47 PM »
5' 10"/178 cm, 32"/ 81 cm.

80
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: December 16, 2021, 02:16:18 PM »
First, apologies, got the threads mixrd up. I have the TTX21/VB099.

But yeah Specialized recommends a 56 for either frame. As I mentioned, I made it fit, even with a set back seatpost, but it still seems big.

81
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: December 16, 2021, 11:04:39 AM »
Nope. No problems, but YMMV. It's a great frame. One of those "would be nice if" issues with a Chinese frame is not being able to get a bike fit before purchasing. I should probably have gone with a 54 instead of a 56, but even being on the big side, there's plenty of range to get a decent fit, for me anyway. /shrug

82
For some reason...the forum can't/won't load my YouTube URL. My apologies if this is against the rules.
Here is the title of the video: I May Have A Problem - Dengfu R12 First Look

A couple of other thoughts:
1. This was my first time building up a hydraulic disc brake frameset. It absolutely was AWFUL and thankfully all the learning lessons means that I could probably build my next disc bike in a single day....rather than over four days  :o

2. What took the longest during the process was undoubtably routing the cables and bleeding the brakes. And that's including using the Park Took internal cable routing guide tools as well as a legitimate brake bleed kit. While routing from the calipers to the lever is easier...next time I'd rather start from the levers. I initially had some brake oil leak from the levers so I'd rather have that setup properly first.

3. Having now built 3 bikes in the span of just over one year, I've learned that you really have to take your time. Watch as many YouTube tutorials as you can and don't skip or fast forward like I did haha. I originally overlooked the "burping" of the levers by tilting the bike up/down at 45 degree angles.

I'll upload a couple of finished photos later today.

Thanks for sharing your videos! I think I might have watched your PRO Stealth review awhile back before pulling the trigger on a practically new PRO Stealth carbon on EBAY for $100.

Definitely a learning curve with any bike build, but Chinese open mould frames are super special. I've also built up 3 separate frames since COVID, but I've rebuilt my Chinese frame at least three times, not including cable and hose changes which practically require a entire rebuild. Does get easier each time. The problem with disc brakes is that the routing issues make the brake bleeding much more complicated. What you think may be a bleeding problem is just a hose that's pinched somewhere because of all the 90 degree bends and choke points from the levers through the headt tube.

83
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: December 13, 2021, 12:55:33 PM »
Sorry
With a drawing I can make me understand.

Sheaths or tube brake, passage right is the red up or brown down?
thank in advance

I don't have the same frame, but the VB 099/TT X-21 is close enough. I routed them below the BB because that's where the cable guides would be, if they had cable guides anyway.

84
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: BXT Road 115 (BXT-ROAD-115)
« on: December 10, 2021, 11:00:53 AM »
The big issue with the Press Fit is creaking. I had some minor creaking issues from my PF 86/92 Wheels Manufacturing thread together BB, but when I switched over to a SRAM DUB 29mm spindle Wheels Manufacturing BB, I have had no issues across two different frames. The biggest issue was the cost of all the tools to remove and install a traditional PF. On the other hand, I had a BSA on my aluminum frame Giant road bike that I ended up stripping clean in around 2000 miles of riding. The frame was trashed but Giant replaced it, no questions asked.

Other things that get talked about are the big fat bottom areas that builders can design because the PF BBs sit flush with the frame.

Anyway, with a little research, you can read all about PF versus BSA but it all just comes down to what's cost effective and worth your time.

85
Beautiful build!

As far as the routing through the handlebars goes, yeah, it seems most of the integrated bars from China are not the easiest to route. I found that the issue isn't necessarily that the cables cannot be routed without some damage to the housings. As far as I can tell from my own experience, it's all cosmetic and the internal structure of hydraulic lines or mechanical shifting remains intact and working. They just don't work great without some really precise orientation through the bars, headset, and headtube. Any deviation from your cable/hose orientation at one spot will have knock on effects every place else. It's not so much the 90 degree bends in the cables and hoses themselves that cause most of the issue. It's any of the lines crossing over through the bars, stem, headset, and even the head tube to a certain extent, that cause pinch points that collapse the lines. Those pinch points make it difficult to route through the lock ring and all those tight spaces along the course of the routing.

Luckily, it is workable and even if you had pinch points initially, once you get rid of them, the lines are still able to function as intended. Hate to say it, but it's just one of those things that has to be managed when you are dealing with open moulds.

86
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at the moment. My bike is currently disassembled. In your original post, you said you wanted to position your front brake hose and rear derailleur cable on your right shifter. Your last picture shows your front brake on the left shifter. Looks fine through the handlebars and stem. Your front brake line and front derailleur cable shouldn't have to cross each other at all though.

Could you explain what you mean by saying automatically turns in one direction?



87
Your routing through the handlebars is fine. You'll have to cross your brake lines, but do it after they go through the top headset bearing and the space in the lock ring so that your 2 brake lines and 2 cable housings run parallel through the lock ring in the same orientation as they are through the handlebars. You should be able to cross the brake lines in front of the steerer down the front of the headtube.

88
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Frame suggestion
« on: November 02, 2021, 10:45:51 AM »
The frame has little to do with comfort. The two triangles of a frame are stiff enough for most of us.

That's an interesting thought. Are you referring to the particular range of choices in this thread, or to bike frames in general?

89
After The Ride / Re: Where is everyone from?
« on: October 29, 2021, 04:16:48 PM »
Glendale, CA. USA

90
Are you counting bikes in watts ?  ;D

...and a "batch" of 250-350? That's a start-up. ;P

Seriously, I wonder if the difference in mark-up is because of R&D for ICAN

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 15