It appears I may have asked the question too soon:

I tightened from the front of the bike to the back and it seems much better.
- Front two screws under the headset.
- Top two behind the bars.
- Then the headset screw to complete.

I will have it double checked by another person to ensure there is no movement.
 
My only other issue is on the brake leavers end I don't have enough flex in the cable to move more than a a bit over an inch so the brake lines need to be cut off right at the exit out of the bars.

I grabbed a pair of "pace" shoes. They have been out for 10km today.
Thoughts are:
- Very fast shoes, the carbon plate really does push you forward, good improvement of at least 5 sec per km. It was hard to drop the pace back to my normal speed.
- They are not super comfortable in the toe box area, it took about 3 kms for my foot to get use to running in them. The carbon plate felt like I was running on hard plastic (which I guess is to be expected).
- Size wise they are an exact size match for ASICs in the wide, not extra wide.


Overall they are a great shoes for speed work or short runs. While I might change my mind I am not planning on running anything over 10kms in them. Just not enough comfort for the longer runs. I am concerned about hot spots around the ball of the foot.
Attached is an image of the shoes I am talking about. Also got a free pair of insoles which I replaced from the ones that came with the shoes and some socks.
The socks are super comfortable and I will be using them on my longer runs.
The replacement insoles have a noticeable bridge which could impact some people. The original ones the bridge was not as noticeable in the shoe.
Hope the review helps someone.

i picked up a velobuild VB-TT-023. Still waiting on my wheels to turn up but most of the bike is put together. Only issue I have seen with the frame so far is the water bottle mount to the seat post wont fit a screw due to the hole not being round. A little bit of sanding should fix this.
The crank alignment was as perfect it required very little force to get the crank installed in the BB.
The headset is a little tight to get the cabling through. I am using SRAM wireless so only need to worry about two cables but even those took some effort to get around the bends.
Brakes all mounted up fine on the threads. All bottle holder threads are nice and clean.
Not tried the seat mounting yet.
When I tightened the hanger on the back the alignment of the thread is slightly off, ie: a little harder to hand tighten but nothing of a concern.

All in all I am very happy with the frame but until my wheels turn up I wont know how it rides. Attached is a picture of its current state.

These "onemix" brand of shoes look interesting, I can see the Nike similarity in a few of the shoes. About to pull the trigger on a "pace beam" pair. Just waiting for some new years deal to start. Will be nice to compare them to ASIC Nimbus shoes which have a similar solid section running down the middle of the shoe.

I am 55 years old and overweight, I ride slowly uphill, on climbs from 9% upwards I use 34/28 at a very low cadence, 65rpm, do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

A recent comment from my bike fitter as I am almost in a similar position as you. Move to the 165 crank (I am currently running a 175 on my TT bike), it will allow for smoother rotation and less stress around the hips in the aero position. She was being nice without saying the gut would no longer get in the way as the knees don't come up as high and would allow for a much more aligned stroke. You may not touch the gut with your legs but it will cause still your butt to wobble side to side on the seat during the stroke (can't remember the term). The shorter peddle will reduce that allowing for more direct power. My new bike has a 165mm but not tested the theory yet.

Just kicking off a thread to document the frame build. Parts used pictures taken an links to videos as I upload them. Hopefully it will help some other novice frame builders in the future to solve build issues or get a closer look at frame parts before pulling the trigger on purchasing this frame.

Extras in the box. 3 water bottle cages and extra screws for a taller towers. But no extra spaces. I will design and 3d print if I need to increase stack height.

The frame is a standard matt black in M with 420 bars and L rest bars (I am 175cm tall with a slightly longer trunk than the average person), here is a picture of all the bits out of the box a picture of the fork in place pre-cut and post cut with the stem attached.

I plan on getting some youtube unboxing video's up this weekend. Will add to this thread as I upload things. Expected completion date of build end Dec as I am time poor.

Teaser photos

Thank you, I will give it a go tonight and hopefully it solves itself.

Was looking at putting together my lexon crank today with the xcadey power meter. Everything fits into place nicely. But when I hand tighten down the PM spider onto the crank there is about .5 mm to 1mm of play.
IE: I can rattle the PM on the crank. Do people normally put a spacer between the PM and the crank? If so which side of the PM and what size spacer? I would assume the charger side of the PM. It feels important as the side the spacer is on will impact the chain line, not by much but you never know.