chainstay passage is pretty narrow, it took me a few attempts feeding from the back IIRC to get it through

I used another fork on my frameset so I can't confirm. Usually the newer crown races have a small gap to help open up for clearance. If not, maybe the fork doesn't need the crown race?

Did you try adding a dab of grease into the hole and gently turn the screw? Some screws have thread locker on them, so there tends to be a bit of resistance when screwing them in. As long as it's in flush, that's usually what I do with minimal issue. Caliper screws just need to be firmly screwed in, no need to over torque them.

Nothing, the seller confirmed it was normal. You will find that the lower bearing is recessed in the frame so once it's all fitted it looks and operates fine. The gap is still a bit bigger than my other bikes but it's acceptable.

With the caliper mounting bolts, do not force the bolt in even if you are sure it's threaded correctly. The bolt will break and you will have to pay for a replacement fork. The method to do this is  (and this applies to any screw/bolt on the frame and especially the T47 BB):

- With the caliper removed, apply a copious amount of grease to the bolt
- Line up the bolt so it's perpendicular and hand tighten to make sure you are on the right thread.
- Use an allen key to keep tightening until there is a some resistance (I would estimate about 3-4nm of torque).
- Back out the bolt, clean the bolt threads (important) and apply grease again and using an Allen key you should be able to turn the screw that little bit extra (maybe half to a full turn).
- Back out and repeat until the screw is all the way in (note you don't need to get the screw to turn all the way in as you have the caliper mount adaptor).

Essentially you are using the screw to chase/clean the threads. Be extremely careful when you do the BB, don't be surprised if you find yourself sitting there for a few minutes trying to find the right position to start engaging the thread (it helps if you have one of those BB tools and use that as leverage to find and start the thread by hand).

Hope this helps.

I should also add that they don't bother to mask up the BB and caliper contact points and just spray over the areas. You should be fine leaving as is but you may want to "face" these contact areas by sanding back the paint to expose the carbon. If you run into any issues aligning your calipers to remove disc rub or develop creaking in the BB area, then this maybe the cause.

I hope someone can help me with this frame build. I recently purchased the version sold by "Surprise store" on AliExpress. My issue is installing the headset where there is a gap between the lower bearing and the fork and also a bigger gap between the frame and the headcover for the top bearing - this is using the supplied headset. With the top bearing in particular, this sits flush with the frame and when you put the the compression ring on, it sits too high the the headset cover leaving quite a big gap. Any advice is appreciated.

Did you ask for a specific color and did you also ask for a spare RD hanger? Whenever I get a big purchase item from Ali, I always video record the box opening in case something happened during shipping. If it was damaged on arrival, at least you'll have video proof damage was caused during transport. If no issues are found, just delete the video. Hopefully the frame arrives with no issue! 

Pretty much all frames come with a compression plug but it's usually a pretty short one. I personally didn't use the supplied one with any of my builds but bought a longer one on aliexpress. Gives the steerer tube a little more strength i would say. Not sure if it's really necessary but i feel safer riding it with a larger compression plug.

Yep that's the correct c ring. I comes with a compression plug but like the above poster, I purchased a 80/90mm one for extra security.