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Messages - zilcho

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1
Slack HT / ST angles generally means you're sitting back and more upright. More comfortable and stable but not as manoeverable, maybe not as fast. Downhill mountain bikes take it to the extreme.

Boost rear axle - basically a different frame standard with wider bottom bracket shell and wider pedal spacing to allow wider tires. If you get a boost frame, you need a boost crankset, as a road / gravel crankset will be too narrow. Boost is fairly common though in the mountain bike world so finding parts shouldn't be hard.

HT and ST change independently based on the frames intended use. HT angle does not change the riders position nearly as much as ST angle. Downhill takes slack HT to the extreme but not ST, modern MTB is slack HT and steep ST.

Boost rear axle standard states what the axle width for the wheel hub is and is independent of the bottom bracket. It was introduced to increase wheel stiffness and improve chainline for wider BBs but does not dictate the BB standard.

2
Do you mind explaining what you mean by ST and HT angles and boost rear axle i'm new to a lot of this. I understand the concept of having adequate stack/reach in the context of a bike fit (being comfortable on the bike), but I don't understand how other aspects of geometry impact ride quality or experience.

Most of the Chinese hardtail frames that I'm aware of are based on older MTB trends. This means they have a slacker seat tube (ST) angle and steeper head tube angle (HT), along with longer reach than drop bar (road, gravel) frames. Using this for a drop bar build would result in the rider sitting farther rearward over the rear tire, not great for climbing, having a worse angle of attack for rolling over obstacles, and likely require a short stem which could impact handling characteristics. All of this is hypothetical and you may not be bothered by any of it, but modern frames in all disciplines have moved in different directions. Quick general notes on more modern frames: modern hardtail (and full suspension) MTB - steeper ST, slacker HT, still long reach; road - steep ST, steep HT, reach varies but usually long from Chinese brands; gravel - steep ST, slacker than road HT, shorter reach than road.

The boost axle spec has been used on MTB for a while now. It has a 148mm rear hub and 110mm front hub. Road and gravel disc use 142mm rear hub and 100mm front hub. Depending on your choice of fork (likely a rigid MTB paired to the hardtail frame) you would need to use MTB wheels.

3
This is starting to show up at some events, and could be a lot of fun to build and ride. But, comes with tradeoffs. They're not as aerodynamic as gravel bikes, both bike and rider position, so you will lose a lot of energy trying to hold a speed of 30 or 35km/h. But option of front or full suspension and truly wide tires 2.4" - could be huge fun too for singletrack or rough roads.

I think here in the gravel forum the best approach would be to pick a 50mm clearance frame from the list, and install 650b wheels per above. These bikes look aweseome too.

650b is not the answer. They have their place but it is not the same category of bike for someone trying to hop on board with the current trend at the pointy end of racing.

4
So would it make more sense to get a MTB frame, install drop bars and a rigid fork?

I believe the geometry complicates this solution. A combination of less than ideal ST and HT angles, reach, boost rear axle, and Q-factor, maybe some other features as well. The few I've seen were geared towards bike packing, which could work, but anyone trying to make a modern MTB tire gravel bike seemed to be dissuaded. Modern hardtails and the most modern, cutting edge gravel frames are areas that Chinese manufacturers have not moved to, and honestly are pretty niche markets even in the West.

5
Does anyone know how good Carbonda's paintjobs are and if they do somewhat complicated jobs? I am usually relatively picky with such things and I would rather go with their unpainted black version than getting something that I don't like in the end. On top of that I did find a couple of posts reporting that the paint chipped easily in certain places. The paintjob would be based on the Cube Nuroad C:62 SLT Design (see image ). I wrote to their salesteam but didnt get an answer yet.



Their paint is pretty good considering the price and seem to have no issue with more complex designs. However, unless things have changed recently, they also just buff out matte and glossy paint and only put a clear coat on metallics. My 505 from 2018 with just a single glossy color has held up well with minor scratches in the paint but no real chipping.

6
Was this WITH the Garbaruk cage @fhold mentioned he was planning to get or standard ? I have seen the testing as well and it was ALWAYS with the standard cage.

 Also, as far as cranks go I have had both the wide and narrow on my G056. I think I like the wide for the extra Q factor but that is all. You need extra spacers to shim it out is the only difference mounting. It uses the same internal bearing BB.

I was using a stock Rival XPLR as that was what I had seen videos and comments about. Investing more money for the Garbaruk cage on the chance that it maybe works seems silly to me when the GX just works out of the box.

7
great, thanks for the inside. So I will go down the GX AXS route. What setup are you running specifically now?

Rival AXS shifters, GX AXS rear derailleur, X01 10-50 cassette, X01 chain, Force Wide 1x crank with 42 tooth chainring and Sigeyi power meter on a LCG071.

8
After conducting further research, it appears that at least some people have successfully fitted the Rival AXS eTap derailleur with a Garbaruk cage, making it work with an 11-50T cassette. My plan is to start by using the SRAM-compatible version of the Garbaruk cage and 12s normal chain (YBN SLA e.g.). If that doesn’t work as well as expected, I can still try switching the pulley wheels.

I found probably the same videos and forum posts suggesting that you can use an XPLR derailleur with a 10-50. I would highly advice not to waste your time and money. I was able to make it work a few times in the bike stand but it was never consistent and would not work when riding. Save yourself the trouble and just get the previous generation GX AXS derailleur.

9
I feel like SRAM in general are just a bunch of d**ks. I reviewed many of their patents and they even filed patents from interns. They're using the broken US patent system to stifle any and all innovation and then lawyer up. One of my bike buddies was complaining how one SRAM RED shifter cost almost $700 USD, and I told him both my gravel and road LTwoo groupsets cost less than that!   ;D

The system is absolutely broken but SRAM is just playing the game at this point, they're all multinational corporations trying to turn a profit. Shimano did this for years and has some equally asinine patents. They're the reason SRAM double tap exists and why lower tier brands were stuck with thumb shifters.

10
29er / Re: Carbonda FM909
« on: December 19, 2024, 08:34:37 PM »
On the German MTB forum more people are using the 909 for marathon-type riding and 936 for more trail oriented riding. Though there were some voices more recently saying that the difference may be smaller than initially made out to be.

I am leaning towards a 909 because I prefer the shock placement, cable routing, 2 bottle holders, and I don't like the looks of the seat mast in size XL on the 936.

I have both and would suggest the 909 for the same reasons you settled on. My 936 is from early 2020 (pre 120mm rear) built on a budget with 120mm fork and 42.5 shock. Its robust and have no complaints, I just wanted a lighter, fancier build with two bottles. My 909 was built as 120 front and rear with lighter components throughout. It is certainly faster and more nimble but does have some flex in the rear triangle. Some of that might be the lighter frame but I blame the super light wheelset and my relatively skewed burst power to weight ratio. A note on fitting two bottles, for a size large frame I could not fit a 750ml cambelbak podium in the vertical position and had to size down for the second bottle. Not what I was hoping for but still better than just one bottle.

11
My current gravel bike is a LCG071, and previously rode a CFR505, as well as owning multiple other frames from both Carbonda (FM909, FM1001, FM936, CFR505) and LightCarbon (LCG071, LCR017). Both brands produce high quality frames and are easy to deal with (you can ignore the nutjobs in a particular road thread, even that frame has resounding positives with a few outliers). Carbonda finally updated their website and maybe that helps streamline some of the process.

The CFR707 is a longer frame but assuming you can fit either I would decide based on aesthetics, in which case the LCG071 wins for me. I doubt you will notice a meaningful difference due to their tire clearance (you really don't need to jump on the MTB tire trend unless you're racing for the win in Lifetime Grand Prix events, in which case why would you be here?). Running 1x on gravel can have limitations but when out exploring or riding solo it doesn't bother me, I mostly notice it when riding on pavement with someone on 2x and have slightly unsatisfying cadence matching. For your own ease of upgrading maybe look at a GRX build that lets you just swap crank and FD instead of a full 105 swap, plus 105 will come with a different set of limitations in easy gears if this is really meant for big gravel.

I really like my LCG071, and want to love it, but it does have some caveats. I'm 6'2" and have the size 550 with a 100mmx400mm integrated handlebar and the fit is great but there is considerable toe overlap with 42mm tires. I really only notice it when doing a U-turn on pavement and haven't noticed it when riding, even on mild single-track. Most concerning though is death wobble. On two occasions when riding downhill at speed on pavement I had removed both hands and the front end instantly began violently wobbling back and forth. It happened so quickly that I immediately grabbed the bars again, but in hindsight it seemed stable just very concerning. As a gravel bike it has been great.

With those considerations I think you would be happy with either bike for gravel, go with what fits you or looks exciting to ride.

12

LMAO -  it's a Spanish gravel now

Check new Ben Delaney video on YT

Mondraker Arid, I recognized the frame as soon as all of the influencer reviews popped up but couldn't remember the source. Seems like they added downtube storage and removed the dumb caliper aero covers.

Edit: on second glance there is a lot different, just shares the skeletal chainstay. Complete rework before production or a different frame?

13
29er / Re: DIY Carbon -DCB F140 Frame
« on: November 14, 2024, 09:51:23 AM »
It looks to be same frame as Carbonda FM1001 discussed here quite a lot :-)

It is the FM1001, and Vortac acknowledged that in another standalone thread they made about the DIYCarbon version. Still coming from China with a middle man when no one seems to have an issue dealing with Carbonda directly. Curious what DIYCarbon will actually offer that is different. Seems like their US presence doesn't actually mean anything if the frames are painted and shipped from China.

14
29er / Re: FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame
« on: November 14, 2024, 09:48:42 AM »
IMHO 150 fork is a must-have for this bike to be proper tail bike. Stabiliy at speed & confidence in steep is step up. Also stack is quite low, so 150 and high riser bar help here. Does anybody ride FM1001 with 160 fork? The only reason why not to it is higher BB and reach robbed by another 5mm.... HA 64,5 is absolutely fine, SA slackedned to 77 still acceptable...

Why not go for the 1002 at that point? It already has a 64.5 HA with the suggested 150 fork, and 160/135 on the 1001 is getting to be quite uneven for the use case. I run a 150 on my 1001 and agree with your positive points, but I think it negatively impacts the bikes ability in steep, technical climbing.

15
29er / Re: Any recent experiences with DIY Carbon?
« on: October 02, 2024, 10:21:14 AM »
Because they have the frame I like with with the geometry I’m looking for.  Already researched Ican, hongfu, tideace, spcycle, Airwold, dengfu, et al…

Their DCB F140 is just a Carbonda FM1001 but they claim different rear travel for the same shock sizes. Identical geo charts

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