Did you try?
I've got Schwalbe Thunder Burts in that measure 52mm and there's room to spare.

Ok, i tried and they fit but there's not enough clearance to the chain stays, just about a mm (if even that) to the knobs which is not enough. Front fits fine tough
The race Kings measure 55mm on my rims btw

I replaced the fender bold at the chainstay/BB junction with a flat head bolt to make it a little easier to get the wheel on and off.

I designed a screw for 3D printing that fits flush with the frame:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6266960

I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I  used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.

Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.

I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.

I contacted Carbonda and this is the "official" way to do it. Just for the record . I decided to run full cable housing to the front mech tough as it was stated to do this in the Shimano GRX manual. This way the cable is also protected from dirt that will come off the tire at this location.

External routing - the cable housing for derailleur shifting only go up to the cable stopper on the down tube.

That's the thing, there are no cable stoppers on the down tube on the 707. Just inserts that let a cable housing pass through. It would be a clear "housing all the way" situation if not for the sliding plate for the inner cable i posted a picture of before.

Hello, I believe that the cable housing should always pass through the frame, regardless of whether it is a fully internal or semi-internal routing frame. I hope this helps you.

are you sure? I just got the chance to open up the frame at the bottom bracket and it very much looks like the cable is supposed to run without housing in the frame. See photo. I just dont get where the upper endstop is supposed to be, the ports into the frame dont seem to support a cable housing endstop.

Can anyone maybe share a picture of how they wired up their front derailleur?

The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.


For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.

what's your inseam measurement? I'm about the same height

Could any of the CFR707 owners check the frame clearance for a Stages Power Meter on their bike for me?

https://support.stagescycling.com/en/support/solutions/articles/1000137517-how-can-i-find-out-if-my-bicycle-is-compatible-with-a-stages-power-meter-
 

Leverage Ratio of the FM1001.
Source: Adam