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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTwoo rim brake / mechanical 2024 refresh
« on: Today at 05:47:18 PM »
A pity there's no sign of increased cassette clearance. I'd like to see a 2x which gets to 36 at least.
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc!
« on: December 14, 2023, 10:26:47 PM »Got it. Funnily enough the thumb trigger on LTwoo is what caught my fancy. I have Shimano and SRAM.. And this looked different.
Like you, really like LTWOO/campy style shifting. they are (as far as I can tell/tested) completely shimano compatible (10/11/12) and mix well with them. I have tried Ultegra RX with LTWOO and worked just great as LTWOO has limited cassette range compared with Ultegra RX.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
« on: December 11, 2023, 04:52:14 PM »
I am having issues with my Erx- randomly working/not working and being slow to respond (it's been very wet here) while working fine with the app but not the brifters (which have new batteries in them and the system is fully charged). Would you be able to describe in more detail what you did with the duct tape? Did you wrap a small piece around where it plugs into the mech or ?? I'm not quite sure how to follow your suggestion and I would LOVE to have a working set!
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
« on: October 05, 2023, 06:37:42 PM »
YOu can disconnect the brifters from the lines and no fluid will come out- just do it with the levers not installed on the bars so you can orient their position relative to the calipers and keep the connection pointed towards the ceiling as you disconnect. Removing the brake pads and putting in spacers is key as is not squeezing the lever when it's disconnected:)
Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.
Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it. Screw in finger tight.
Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid. Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly. Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.
Now comes the important part! It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes. The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system. Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel. Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension. Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.
Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper. Now undo the sryinge and you're done! Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps. Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).
Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.
Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it. Screw in finger tight.
Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid. Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly. Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.
Now comes the important part! It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes. The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system. Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel. Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension. Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.
Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper. Now undo the sryinge and you're done! Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps. Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Mechanical flat mount brakes
« on: September 30, 2023, 08:13:08 PM »
Juintech and noncompression housing is the way. Use them on many bikes, always reliable, zero maintenance except for pads. Still on my og housings after 3 years (just used sealed, noncompression cables). I ride hydro also and prefer the juintechs for really much better feel on our super bumpy/potholes, gravel rides.
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