There are better designs but I wouldn't consider it a flaw.  I ended up tapping the upper link and the bolts tighten without washers, that is a QA problem.  Do they stay tight? Yes.  Do I like that the carbon is a bushing? No.  I still ride it 2-3x per week as-is, excessive flex and all. 

Yours is, this is most likely a QA issue again.  Mine shifts super smooth but I also checked it while building and have had to straighten it twice.  I ordered a few extra with the frame and you can grab them from Ali, I wouldn't write it off until you replace it or straightened it if you haven't already.  I know, it is money you shouldn't have to spend and you can try to push Eddy to send you a new one.

I paid for the new triangle, I'll be the guinea pig.  If it makes the frame great then it is still a bargain at 1/3 the cost of a Hightower CC.  If not, I (we) gambled and lost.

If the bearings are still pressed in from the inside with no way to retain them,, and there are 2 bolts, one on each side, then there is still a design flaw even if lateral flex is reduced.

It doesn't seem like as many people are having shifting problems, but the derailleur hanger is built outside of Sram's 12 speed design specs. For some it may shift ok now, but I have to think it could be better if within specs. And what will happen once things start to wear? I don't know, but I do know mine doesn't shift worth a....hoot, and no combination of adjustments will make it any better.

I gave the frame a chance and would love it if it worked as intended, but I will not be spending any more money on it when I still don't know if I will have a rideable bike.

Well,

Fortunately/Unfortunately I will not be building the frame. I have accepted a job in the bike industry with bike rebate so I'm selling my frames and the components I bought with it.

I made a post in the classfied to not spam here. It's a small if you're interessed

Someone made a 3d print that was wider and longer but is only really practical when screwed in.  I'm not brave enough to rivnut the seat tube, or anywhere on these frames really, to get a little sample fender.  I bodged up a version without the screw holes that could be attached with double sided tape but it is heavy.  The original - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4853311

Other than looking like a SC this frame has nearly nothing in common with any model.  That said though I do think the muckshield made for the Tallboy/Hightower/Megatower would fit and be pretty neat.  The M5 version isn't available yet but I think a crafty person can work out how to make something similar.

https://www.phizcycling.com/the-muckshield

Gents, a 'sticker foam' for the chain stay has been included in my frame, if anyone else has received, which direction did you apply it? 

Here comes the answer to my trouble: I installed the cane creek spacer and then the stock headset, it looked unstable; then I tried adding on top the stock spacer ring, better but still unstable; so I blamed the stock expander not pulling enough, today I will receive a star nut, but the reality as said above is that the angles don't match. So I will need a cane creek headset or a different bearing that probably isn't easy to find. Again time and money waste  .
This project isn't a breeze, when I built another bike I made everything in one day and half with no issues. Here every day comes a surprise  .

I am in the same situation of slo, I bought a shimano XT 8100 crank instead of 8120, so maybe the chainline it's too inner; I found a 2,5 mm spacer for spindle, it's an option but it will probably make the QR asymmetric, even if for very small amount.
I will see later, now I'm fighting with BB; press fit really sucks, I regret I didn't order the BSA mod; I fitted the BB but something went wrong with inner tube alignment, so now I have to buy a pulling tool and remove it, and I hope I won't damage anything.
Fork update: manitou mezzer barely scratches the M size frame, so I bought the cane creek spacer: it works and it is compatible.