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Messages - frnchy

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1
Seconded on the compatibility, they'll definitely work. However I would advise that you seek out a set of jockey wheels with narrow-wide tooth profiles, as in my experience the shift quality goes up by a small but noticeable amount. I'm running Pass Quest ones but there are cheaper options out there, I put a 12/14t set of these Fovno wheels on a friend's bike and they're much nicer than the stock GRX ones with crappy bushings. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803243188250.html

2
Hey, I have another question for G068 owners: what's the height of the chainstay on the NDS? I want to make sure that I have the correct caliper bolt length.

Brake mounts are 25 mm thick, so use whatever bolts correspond to that. I'm using 35 mm Ti bolts into Shimano calipers for a 160 mm rotor. Remember that the rear brake mount is for 160 mm rotors natively so that might change bolt lengths a bit.

3
I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol

The battery doesn't go in through the BB shell, it goes in through the headset (either upper or lower, depending on which is easier to get it into the downtube) then pulled down with the connected wires until it's near the BB. Cutting carbon isn't much of a problem but drilling is a different matter, even if it's in a location not so crucial to safety, I'd be worried about delamination from the drill bit. Might be worth it to get that seatpost you linked, or a Hylix one (or if you have a spare 8-12 months and several hundred bucks, Darimo is an option...  ::) )

4
I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.

The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.

My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?

If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post!   ;D

You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662


5
I got a G068 to accomplish exactly this, and it works fairly well. Not as good as a pure road bike on the road, nor as good as a slacked-out gravel bike with mtb tires on more technical terrain, but it’s quite good at occupying that middle niche I want. Since the geometry is the same as the canyon grail, its decently long and low, so I was easily able to get a position pretty close to my road bike. I posted more detailed info in the 068 thread, check it out if you’re interested.

As long as you have the same cassette ratios between wheelsets, and hubs that are within tolerance, you shouldn’t need to realign shifting. It is likely you’ll have to shim out the rotors, I had to go 0.25mm out on one of my wheelsets to get them aligned. But after everything is set up it’s not a pain to swap wheelsets, usually takes me about 2 minutes, including taking out and putting away my bike stand.

6
Frame just arrived. I've tried putting in the BB and fitted the PES Magene onto it. Everything seems to be working fine. Crank was rotating freely.

Do note that I only did a quick test fit, seems adding a bit extra spacer on the drive side will help add clearance in case of mud or dirt.

Btw, anyone know what's the strange part in the bag for? It has the word DS068 labeled on it. Seems like a bending tool for hoses?

I'm also tempted to replace the headset Clamp. Anyone had issues with the default one?

That’s the seatpost wedge, very crucial! Put it in before the seatpost, with the front of the frame tipped down so the wedge doesn’t fall into the seattube.

7
Hey all what the heck is up with the sizing difference between the G068 and the G058? Is bikeinsights accurate? If so the G068 is stretched out to Taiwan and the G058 is a beach cruiser.

Don’t compare size-for-size between the 068 and other frames, since spcycle copied the Grail size nomenclature which runs WAY bigger than almost any other brand (for example, my road frame is a 56 cm Tarmac, and I’m comfortable on a size S 068). If you know the 058 would fit, then go through the list of 068 sizes to find a more accurate match.

8
I need your help again ;D
My fork/headset came with a compression ring I have not seen before and I'm unsure if I use it correctly. If i put it right after the upper bearing It doesn't look like the stack will be without a gap.
Even if i compress it by hand, it dose not seem to be flush.
Any idea how or what i should do?

Thanks!

That's the crown race that sits on the fork, if it's not built into the fork already. Review integrated headset installation, there's many good videos on the topic, or written articles if you prefer that (here's a decent one by Cane Creek: https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/ ). The compression ring for the top will be a much thicker C shaped ring much like the one in the pictures you posted previously.

This is worth getting correct because it's absolutely critical for safety, and with fully internal cable routing it's not easy to adjust/fix headset issues. It's much better to take the bike to a shop if you don't feel 100% about it.

9
I assume the new fork is still 31.8 mm in diameter? I was thinking about mounting a Canyon gear groove cockpit. But I guess thats not possible.

??

New fork should have a standard 1 1/8" steerer, like the other fork option; Canyon is the one with weird standards but even they went with a 1 1/8" steerer on the new Grail, so their cockpit should work just fine.

10
Metal Frames / Re: Experiences with Chinese steel frames?
« on: October 30, 2024, 12:18:30 PM »
Quick plug for Marino steel frames: https://www.marinobike.com/categoria-producto/custom-frames/
They're in the same price ballpark as the ones you linked, but these are fully custom made in Peru to your geometry and specs. Their cheapest custom made gravel frame will run you about 350 USD plus shipping.
Their Reynolds 520 house gravel frame is only $379 plus shipping.

I have one of his custom gravel frames and can happily recommend. I don't think you can match this price point and quality for a custom frame.
Here's a quick shot of mine. It was 665 USD made with Reynolds 853. I think the price includes paint as well, but I took mine unpainted. Shipping was 145 USD. About 7 weeks from time of order to delivery.

Looks pretty good, but I must say I would've chosen a different picture than this to showcase a full build.... unless backwards forks are the new trend that I'm unaware of


11
Yup, I made a post a while ago about the method I devised to stash the battery at the bottom of the downtube without rattling: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662.0.html

I've since used the same method on my new bike build, but I forgot the zip ties before putting it into the frame, so I stuffed a bunch of bubble wrap in there to wedge it against the frame, and it doesn't work as well. Don't forget them!

12
Vendor Discussion & Reviews / Re: Best source for spare rims?
« on: October 22, 2024, 07:43:48 PM »
Light Bicycle, Farsports, Nextie, BTLOS, etc. Not sure if they might do a discount for a bulk order, you should ask.

13
@frnchy How do you like riding quality of the frame? Is the power transfer ok? In other word is it stiff enough to build a fast bike?

I'd say it's definitely stiff enough for whatever fast build you'd want to do. No BB or other frame deflection that I could feel or see evidence of when I did some sprints on my first few rides to test it out. My handlebars are pretty flexible though so muscling around the front end gets a little squishy, but that's build dependent, if you put on a super stiff handlebar I think the front end would keep up. Stiffness aside, the frame rides fine, there's nothing remarkable about it either positively or negatively in that regard. Ride quality is so much more dependent on contact points, wheels, and above all tires, and it's definitely more comfy with the 50 mm tire 650b setup than with my 30 mm 700c wheels. If you want more detailed and better-written analysis, seek out reviews of the newest Canyon Grail, the geometry is the same and that has a lot more impact on ride feel and handling than frame stiffness.

14
Is this your bike?
What kind of rack is that on it?

Nope, as stated in my post, it's landboard's bike from the 068 thread here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4875.30.html (my build is a couple posts down on that thread). It's the same size as my frame though so the measurements are the same for both. I'm not sure what the rack is, I thought it might be an Ortlieb rack but I just looked at their lineup and didn't spot any matching rack, so you'll have to reach out to landboard if you want to know for sure.

15
It is on my short list. However SPCYCLE stated that it only takes 46T:

Interesting - that's got to be for a road chainline, and even then I'd say that's REALLY conservative. You got me curious though, and I just did some measuring:

-Distance from tire centerline (most convenient proxy for bike centerline) to the outside of the outer chainring: ~47.5 mm (+- 1 mm or so)
-Outer chainring thickness: ~2.7 mm

So the chainline of my outer ring is approximately 46 mm, which is 1.5 mm inboard of the WIDE 1x chainline, and at their closest point there's almost exactly 8 mm of room between the tip of the outer chainring's teeth and the chainstay. A 48t chainring would 100% fit (that's what my outer chainring is), and you could probably fit 52t or even a bit bigger before getting close to the chainstay, at least with a WIDE chainline.

Actually, in the G068 thread, landboard posted his build which, counting teeth, looks to use a 46t chainring with room for a large glob of mud right behind it. I don't know if this is a WIDE crank but even if so, it gives pretty definitive proof that 48t would fit.


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