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Messages - Sebastian

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1
Sure, I guess Decathlon are now just harvesting the fruits of their labor. But as far as I'm concerned, there's now nothing distinguishing them anymore from the likes of Specialized and Trek. It's just another 10k bike now. Arguably from a less "desirable" brand. Not that I care. But even with all the pro peloton credibility they got now, I don't think they're quite up there with the big boys from a brand image point of view. What set them apart were interesting and competitive bikes at a good price point. Those are still there. I just don't quite see the point of a Van Rysel at the SWORKS price point. But maybe there are people willing to buy this.

2
My only other issue is that my FD cages are showing heavy brassing. Unlike Shimano, LTwoo doesn't provide skid plates. In comparison my Shimano FD cages look immaculate even after heavy use.

I've had that, too. But other than the surface finish wearing away where the chain rubs, is that really an issue? It's really only cosmetic, I suppose. I didn't have the impression that the chain would wear through the FD cage.

3
I can’t talk about the frame clearance on this one. But I can talk about direct mount rim brakes. I got the VB-R218/Chinarello Dogma F frame. I’ve been running this with Bontrager Speed Stop brakes which closely resemble the Cane Creek EEbrakes. I’m now running Campagnolo Record brakes. I got 21internal/30external rims with 25c Vittoria Corsas that blow up to actual 29mm in width. There’s definitely enough clearance for 30mm and probably even 32mm. The limiting factor on my frame is the drive side chainstay. Not the brake calipers.
I’ve had the Ultegra calipers in the single bolt variant on another frame but those are basically identical with the direct mount calipers in design and shape. Those would easily clear 30mm tires as well.

I’m talking actual measured width as that varies wildly between tires of the same (labelled) size. Also, clearance above the tire might differ depending on where the brake mounts are exactly on the frame.

4
I have now accumulated around 1300km on these wheels. But about 50% of that was indoors, however, when there was snow and/or bad weather outside.
But I've done around 500k outdoors in just these past three weeks alone on various terrain and in various conditions: Flat terrain, very hilly terrain, zero wind as well as a very windy ride with particularly strong gusts. Here are my key takeaways so far:

The weight: This is the strong point of these wheels, obviously. Being so light, they feel amazing uphill. Even on slight inclines when powering over small crests I feel it is very noticeable that there is very little resistance to accelerations and the bike just feels extremely light footed in general.

The stiffness: The wheels' strong point is also their weak point. Obviously, if you built a rim like this with carbon spokes, it would make for a much stiffer wheel. Sapim CX Ray-spokes aren't the stiffest to begin with. Pair this with a - probably - less stiff rim and you do feel that there is some give. They don't feel inefficient. They're definitely stiff enough for climbing out of the saddle and the occasional sprint. But if you want something with minimal flex under high power-efforts like sprinting, you might want to look elsewhere. To me, these strike a very good balance between comfort and stiffness.

Durability: I'm not a light rider. My weight varies between 80 and 85kg. My FTP is usually somewhere between 300W and 350W depending on the time of the season and my training. I am not an explosive rider, more of a time trial kind of guy. I was wary of the weight limit with these and found myself nursing them down descents on bad roads at first. But I think it was all in my head. After a while you kind of just forget about it. Some of the roads in my area are really pretty broken, super bumpy, open cracks and giant potholes on descents that you have to negotiate. There's also the occasional stretches of cobbles. I've done it all on these wheels and there is no sign of them running out of true. I'm pretty confident (SO FAR) that they hold up fine.

Riding dynamics and cross wind stability: To me, these are perfect allrounders and I particularly love the way these ride in hilly terrain with short steep ramps. Being a heavier rider, these really help me power over short pinches and keep my average speed high on hillier rides. The lack of inertia makes these just go uphill effortlessly. But it is also what makes it feel slightly less satisfying on the flat. It might just be in my head because the numbers do not really show them to be much slower on the flat than my 55deep wheels. But it's just the way they feel. I definitely agree that they feel more stable in cross winds. I'm a heavier rider so I don't really have much trouble with winds to begin with. But these feel particularly unaffected by cross winds. I did a ride with super strong gusts and apart from one time where the front wheel on a very fast descent got slightly upset by a wind gust, they felt literally completely unaffected. I got 60mm deep wheels on my rim brake bike which feel much worse in those kind of conditions. However, the very light weight and lack of inertia in my experience makes them feel more nervous on descents through corners and over bumps. Less weight just means less gyroscopic force, if that makes sense? So at high speeds through corners, these wheels react more nervously against steering impulses and are easier upset through bumps in the road. You do get used to it but it's noticeable.

Conclusion: These are great allrounders which make for a worry free wheelset to be ridden on all kinds of terrain and in all conditions (on the road, that is). They seem very well made for the money. I'd only really advise against these if all you ever do is riding on flat terrain. That's where these just feel less exciting to ride.

5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TAN TAN X67
« on: March 23, 2025, 02:39:16 PM »
Surely, the claimed fork weight of 195g on the TanTan website is a mistake, right?

6
I totally agree with you, @Serge.
IMO there’s actually very few if any reason for electronic shifting other that the ease of building fully integrated bikes with it and the vanity of having less cables showing in general. Sure satellite shifters are nice. Sure, it’s a nice gimmick to be able to swap pages on your head unit with buttons on the shifters. But none of that is something that I truly miss on my mechanical bikes. Hydro disc brakes are the single biggest milestone. Whatever you may think of them, they’re just better and make braking safer. I love my rim brake bike but there’s just no denying that. Electronic shifting is nice to have but really absolutely unnecessary.

7
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Brass vs Alloy nipples
« on: March 20, 2025, 03:28:04 AM »
Brass for dirt and salty winter roads. Aluminium for anything else. If you’re using high quality Sapim Aluminium nipples, chances are that those will be just fine in any kind of condition as well. Because the anodizing is just much more durable IME. And most of the potential for corrosion in aluminium nipples comes from imperfections in the anodizing or scratches in the anodizing upon building the wheel.

8
SRAM has too much proprietary shit that I have no interest

I happily run Sram Rival AXS with an Ali cassette from ZTTO, old used carbon GXP cranks, a Magene PM, Shimano chainrings and a KMC chain. No need to run flattop chains and XDR-cassettes if you don’t want to.

9
I think Wolftooth rings are compatible with both Flattop chains and Ekar chains and they might be available in a 4 bolt pattern with 110BCD?
Anyway I'd much rather use the correct chain for my expensive cassette and mess up an Aliexpress chainring with a (potentially) incompatible part rather than the other way around.

10
I see. Still seems like a completely pointless exercise unless you happen to have flattop chains lying around. I certainly wouldn’t risk messing up my Ekar cassettes. And I found the Ekar chains to be very durable. Just like all Campy chains in fact. My Ekar chain has done roughly 6500km in pretty grim conditions with very little sign of wear.

11
Ratio components do Ekar compatible chainrings in 4 and 5 bolt versions with 110bcd. I’m using them on a Sram Red crankset combined with an Ekar groupset.

As for flattop chains: I don’t think they’re narrow enough for al Ekar cassette. I can’t imagine that this would shift smoothly. And what for anyway? Has anyone tried?

12
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Chinese cycling clothes
« on: March 15, 2025, 01:15:01 AM »
Finally some new skinsuit options - this time from Darevie:

$45 USD budget option:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008632516056.html

$58 USD premium option:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008631299458.html

Not sure how I feel about the green of the premium option but nice to see some new alternatives out there.

If only they stopped printing their stupid slogans all over it.

13

I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!

I too found the Ltwoo front shifting pretty agricultural. I made it work but it was nowhere near my Record front mech. That is a full group though so the front mech is paired with the crankset and chainrings from the same groupset. I ran the Ltwoo with a Sram crank with Zrace chainrings. Wasn’t impressed. I switched to Shimano chainrings which actually made things worse because the chainline sits even further outboard with those. Now with Sram Rival AXS it’s better but not by much. I wouldn’t trust this setup to shift well under load in a race situation. If you back off slightly and go easy on it, it’s kind of reliable. But I’ve had much better.

14
It shifts amazingly quick compared to mechanical.

I appreciate electronic groupsets. But they still feel kind of gimmicky to me.
I like the ease of building with wireless groupsets. The tunability is cool, too. But quick I’ve actually found none of them. Di2 is the quickest. I’ve only ridden 11sp Di2 though. Er9 is slower. And Sam Rival is sloooow.

I often wonder how many people riding electronic these days have actually had the chance to compare this stuff to a perfectly tuned top tier mechanical system. Compared to my Record 12sp mechanical, every electronic group I’ve ridden is slower. Particularly in the upshifts. Electronic has less chance for misshifts and is easier to build. True. But quicker it is not.

But the way that frames go, it’s a moot point anyway. Not long and only custom frames will still accept derailleur cables, I guess.

15
75mm BB drop is cool to see. That's a good way to compensate for the additional height of 50mm tires.
Also, the chain stays are very short at just 425mm considering that the frame clears 50s.
Reach is long, despite the head angle not being super duper slack at least on the bigger sizes. That could make for twitchy steering if you run a short stem.

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