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Chris from velobuild just got back to me.. it was 10 bucks to send 2 out.. I guess we will see.
That's annoying.
Aliexpress is full of different versions of cable stop inserts. Not sure whether all these will fit this frame, though. But the clip in variants should work?
Also, somebody in this thread posted a 3d-print-file for exactly this part. Try and look it up. That might be the quickest solution for you.
Wasn't this supposed to be a gravel bike?
38C slicks - I didn't even know they come that wide!
Whoa, looks like they've cut even more weight from the mixed steel/alloy road cassettes. Now they're all coming in at sub 150g that's even including the 11-36t cassettes in both 11 and 12 speed. Personally I wouldn't use these cassettes since I spend half my ride time on the big cogs, but I could see these being great for those who don't climb often or for race specific purposes.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807440536685.html
I would do the pink cassette though:
I reached out to them via their Alibaba store and inquired about purchasing just the cassette and chain (since the chain is spec'd to be 14S).
Good stuff! I'd be interested in the model of that back box when you're happy with it
Still on my list to do:
- get a between the arms bottle
- print a rear box, similar to what the guys at 4-frames do. First protoype is done already (see 5th picture)
- ride more
- get a TT frame (project for next winter)
Hi JonMS, these might actually fit - but I suppose you'll also need some kind of rubber adapters.
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Are we doing update posts? 3000k update from me! Still working like a charm. I have put some "skateboard" grip tape on the seatpost wedge, as it wanted to reduce the torque on these bolts after what I've seen in this thread. Seatpost now holds with 2nm on the bolts.
And I can confirm you can actually ride TT on this, if you are brave enough and have a 3d printer, lol. A bit sketchy, but I wanted to try out the TT position for a bit before I pull the trigger on a new frame
Since this thread is back from the dead, I thought I might as well give an update. More than 8000k done. No issues. Still the first headset with no signs of wear which is a pleasant surprise. I wasn’t too confident in those bearings. This is the bike with the race wheels on: 60mm deep/1300g with 28mm tubulars. These feel soo nice when accelerating and the cornering feel is insane. I’m still in love with the handling of this frame and the super quick steering response.
As I said I was not into headset shenanigans but thanks to kind people like you explaining things I think I finally understand it and it makes sense now.
Both caps were kind of shit, the VB one broke before even applying 6 Nm, the carbon one withstood that force but developed cracks probably because the countersunk head screw didn't fit the cap really well.
I now ordered caps together with screws declared to fit 100 % so I should be good now.
Thanks again everybody for help.
Your image is not very helpful as it's a star nut inside an aluminium steerer. Carbon steerers use expansion plugs.
I don't really know how big the gap should be. Dogma manual says to cut the steerer 5 mm below the top of the stem, which I did and it looks like in the image.
VB top cap is shit. Not only is it made of fragile aluminium that breaks easily, it's also very thick - double the size of a carbon cap I got with additional spacers I bought. No wonder you had to sand it down if you didn't want to cut the steerer so low that the top grub screw would push into air instead of into the steerer.
- The cap on top of the stem I tightened with low torque (around 2,5 Nm) as I believe that's just for the cap to not move and it's not important for the headset itself or am I wrong? (The manual for Dogma says to preload to 2 Nm and then 6 Nm max, but I seriously don't understand why, as the cap is installed as a last part to just cover the stem, so why even preload it? I think the expander plug has to be preloaded before installing the stem or am I wrong again?
