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Messages - Tijoe

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1
E-Bike Motors, Batteries, & Components / Re: conversion kit
« on: March 31, 2025, 11:10:37 AM »
Like Serge_K, I have not found many E-bike retrofit kit offerings through Aliexpress.   I am getting older every year, and keep riding analog bikes.    The last good thread that included a sub discussion discussion on a BB retrofitted motor was in this thread about the Lexon Spirit FS frame.  (Go to the 5th page, post #65)

https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3758.msg44357.html#msg44357

I was thinking of going down this path back when this thread was active, then forgot about it.

2
I have 3 versions of this light and have been extremely happy with them all over the past 2 years.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804558555808.html

I purchased one of these a couple of years ago. Mine flickered too much and I didn't like how it mounts too close to the handlebars.  I need and use this area of the handlebars for other cockpit items.

After purchasing most of the lights sold on Aliexpress, I ended up being the happiest with several of the X-Tiger lights.  My QD-1301 doubles as a battery bank. To date, I have purchased these QD-1301, QD-1101, and QD-1401(Least favorite of these 3.) 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801127497663.html

I have purchased many different light mounts such that I have various ways to mount a light/s away from my handlebars, so this area if free for other usages.



3
Looks like a slightly altered MagicShine light.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKg6ex9

One of LED light bars is an offbondage labeled light, it’s pretty rad.
If looks could kill....

4
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Juin Disc Brakes
« on: March 28, 2025, 11:27:48 AM »
FYI,  Back in 2021, I went down the route of purchasing Juin Tech GT-P4 cable/hydraulic calipers.  I though they were the way to go and be able to use my existing cable index shifting levers on my gravel bike.  Turns out I was wrong, very wrong.   Although they have great stopping power, I had 2 recurring problems that ended up with me pulling them from the bike and migrating to full hydraulic.

1.  On long descents, the calipers would start to overheat, causing the pistons to expand outward onto the rotors, adding more heat by rubbing.  A few times, I had the brake and rotors completely overheated and locked up.
2.  For me, the recommended pads wore really fast,  I found myself constantly having to adjust the clearance between the pads and the rotor in order to maintain good stopping power.   As the pads wore out,  stopping power relative to brake lever pull quickly became an issue.

Not wanting to be to harsh, I ended up hating them.

5
I found a 29er hardtail with very similar geometry to the Cutthroat.   Except...    It does not have boost 148mm rear hub compatibility. (it uses a 142 rear hub), and its weight is a bit too heavy for what I am looking for.

It is the Trifox bike MFM200.  A frame design from 2019/2020 timeframe.

https://www.trifoxbike.com/carbon-mtb-hardtail-frame-mfm200?srsltid=AfmBOoowJJx-uqFd8q1AGPMPs1wGULA7vA2HBrsOCRINZXqp5aUcM_aS

I wrote them and they have no interest in updating this frame to fit a 148mm rear hub.  It appears they are still trying to sell off this older production run.
(Their 2 other newer hardtail offerings are a lot longer wheelbase frame, but these frames are in the 1000g or less weight range.)


7
I figured out how to get the derailleurs working again.  (Some input from the Facebook WHEELTOP Official Group.)

For several attempts trying to perform an "initial Calibration"  The app would state that I had reached the "travel limit"  and the derailleur would not move.

I rebooted the Wheeltop App several times.  Eventually, I was able to use the initial calibration features for the front and rear derailleurs and gradually/incrementally move the rear derailleur down to the 1gear, and the front derailleur onto the large ring.   Then I had to fine tune the gears back to my settings.

This is the bigger question:  Why did both derailleurs lose their calibrations such that the rear derailleur thought that the 7gear was the 1 gear, and the front set its travel limit to the small ring on the front derailleur.  (Just because the front button batteries had low voltage? )   I wonder how much pain and suffering I would have experienced if I had been on long ride, or somewhere remote, where I was sitting on the side of a road, or trail, trying to figure this problem out.

Does Wheeltop make the assumption that SHI* like this wont happen to the end user?   As far as I know, they haven't published anything to recover from this type of problem.   2 more demerit points!

8
I have to admit that I need some help concerning the EDS TX system I am running.   I can't figure out anyway to recover from this problem.

Yesterday, 17 miles from home after climbing a long hill I turned around.  When I tried to shift the rear derailleur, nothing!  I tried the front derailleur. No shifting!   I stopped and pulled up the App.   I could shift the rear derailleur a few gears using the app, and the front wouldn't shift.   I coasted down the hill in a lower gear.  When I stopped,I checked all of the battery levels.  50% rear derailleur, 80% front derailleur, 2.99 volts front derailleur shifter, 2.92 volts rear derailleur shifter.  (I replaced the rear shifter RH lever battery with the spare I carry. )
 This allowed the rear derailleur to shift and I made it home.  (Both lever batteries died at the same time?)   

This morning, I replaced both lever batteries with brand new Duracell ones. (3.3 volts)   Front derailleur light turns green, and I hear the motor buzz, but it wont shift.  The rear derailleur thinks that 5gear is 1gear, and it wont shift any further down to a higher gear.      When the rear derailleur is in the 3gear on the app, it wont shift down to the 1 gear to try to perform an initial calibration because it says the front derailleur has to be in the big ring.  But the front wont shift.   I've spent over a 1/2 hour trying to get the derailleur to move to the actual 1 gear position.     DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO RESET THE REAR DERAILLEUR DOWN INTO THE 1GEAR POSITION?   ANY IDEAS WHY THE FRONT DERAILLEUR WONT SHIFT?   Thanks.

I can't find any recovery features in the current version of the app to be able to manually move the rear derailleur back down to the 1gear (Highest cog on the cassette.)  Am I missing some feature in the App I can't find?   

9
29er / Re: Drop bar mountain bike recs
« on: March 24, 2025, 02:03:09 PM »
Love the DIY rack--what did you use for the axle to mount?
The Robert Axle Project axles.  Purchased from Old Man Mountain (Other shops sell them too.)  You have to measure and select the correct thru axle type and length for your bike.

https://oldmanmountain.com/product/12-mm-rear-thru-axle-1-75-mm-thread-pitch-and-167-174-mm-length/

10
Hi, I am a cycleholic.  My addiction has existed for over 50 years.   It became much worse in 2015, when I discovered Aliexpress.   I've experienced many intense years of thereputic riding and nothing seems to help.   Perhaps my only way out will be when the $800 De Minimus exemption is eliminated, resulting is a financial reduction in my purchasing power.    I am not looking forward to the associated withdrawals.

Please, don't go down this path of addiction.   It has caused great angst over the years, suffering through many Aliexpress sales, collecting coins, playing the app games, searching out coupons, all for elusive bike frames and parts. Such a wasted life, placing order after order, so I can stay motivated riding in my old age.

11
29er / Re: Drop bar mountain bike recs
« on: March 23, 2025, 11:32:01 AM »
Is that a tailfin rack copy on the bottom pic there?

No, it is based on a significantly modified $12.00 Ztto rack with side supports I machined on my mill, and a front seat clamp plate I kludged together.
* it weights about 1/2 the weight of the original rack.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807174905398.html

12
Hey guys, which carbon bottle cages do you recommend?
I have 8 of these on 4 different bikes.   My road bike (Bottles have never bounded out.) on 2 hardtails (Only 1 or 2 bottle ejections on super bad impacts)  and on my Full suspension bike. (No ejections yet.)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800060566674.html

13
From what I have been reading is that they believe that the updated customs process will be based on enhancing the "CBP Entry Type 11" process for items valued less than $2500.   I've read that what they are working on is; any country that has a tariff in place will be required to prepare paperwork (all online) that will clearly state the harmonized 10 digit code for the item and pay the associated fees and tariffs upfront* before the item/s off-load to pass through CBP.  All of the Tariff required packages with pass through an updated informal type 11 process.     
The De Minimis process will remain in place for all other countries of origin that do not have trade restrictions.
(One thing I read is that they are working to figure out how to restrict 2nd and 3rd country exporters from taking packages sent from Hong Kong and China and forwarding them to the US under the guise that the items originated in their country.)  Stiff penalties if these countries are caught doing this and perhaps tariffs added to all of their exports.

* I laugh at this because the current administration will claim that China is paying for the Tariff, rather than the consumer, because the tariffs are being paid for ahead of time by the shipper/Seller.   (In reality, the buyer will pay 20%+ or more upfront for the item they purchased from an Aliexpress store.)

14
Depends how hardcore you want to go. The RF25/G056 is more than adequate to handle a few days bike packing in areas here in California like Catalina Island, Death Valley or Joshua Tree. Also I prefer a gravel bike that has more in common with road standards making it easier to swap parts with. I've bumped into a few Japanese cross-country bike tourers and those guys are just on simple Surly steel frames that are fully loaded while towing a cart!
I guess that that "bikepacking" needs to be better defined by the OP.   In the original definition/meaning of "Bikepacking" is an event where the rider is attempting to ride and achieve the BKT.  (Best known time)  The distances are usually 500KM  to 1000KM.  (500 miles is a typical bikepacking distance in the USA.)  The distances have to be long enough that the rider should spend a minimum of 2 nights sleeping somewhere on the course.

These days, the more common meaning of bikepacking in the US has become "any multiday ride you ride where you camp and ride on mixed surface roads, and trails.
- You wrote "bike packing", and to me this is the proper way to write that you are not participating in a timed multiday event.

I can state that this is one reason I have 3 different bikes I can use for rides that require camping.   Gravel, 29er hardtail and my custom TI frame slacker for heavy duty off-road camping and distance riding where comfort is king over speed and weight.  (The 4th sub category of this is known as "CC" multiday riding.  "Credit card" rides where you sleep in hotels, warm showers, hostels and carry a minimal amount of gear on the bike and riding speed is your primary objective to cover long distances.

15
29er / Re: Drop bar mountain bike recs
« on: March 22, 2025, 11:21:17 AM »
I just saw this thread.

Use the Salsa Cutthroat as your baseline for frame geometry.   Then go to this website and find the Aliexpress/Brand frame you are interested in and compare it to the Cutthroat.  This will give you an Idea of what hardtail frame will work well with drop bars

https://bikeinsights.com

I am using my Spcycle M05 for my bikepacker these days.  It is a longer frame and slacker than the Cutthroat, but I am still able to run drop bars as needed.   This being written, i evolved to where I use a set of "H" bars on this bike rather than flared gravel drop bars.   The nice thing about this is I can reconfigure the bike to flat bars in about 20 minutes, often swapping out a rigid carbon fork with a suspension fork.

Edit:  The nice thing about "H" bars is that you can run mtb components/levers on the "H" bars because they are the smaller mtb flat bar diameter.  With Gravel bars you are stuck using integrated gravel/road brak/shift levers, adding a lot more cost to your build. 

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