Hi everyone,

I have been lurking this website for couple months now. I was wondering if 12 Speed Wired Shimano 105 would be a bad choice for this frameset with integrated bars. Would that be too much kinks and cabling for good shifting performance?
I am thinking about getting a used groupset but having major doubts. I am good at building bikes, wheels but want to be certain before pulling the trigger.

Appreciate any ideas.

Thanks

I used a frame with fully integrated routing and a mechanical groupset and the shifting was good, no issues after 5-6k. But routing process itself was a pain. The mechanical disc brakes weren't so good, but still better than rim brakes with carbon rims.

I have Juin F1's and hoping to fit them to M frame. I just don't want to go downsize to 140 mm disc. Hygge seller did confirmed that frame supports 160 rear but that also depends on the caliper build. Generally full hydros are smaller in size then cable actuated hydraulic calipers. And ZTTO hybrids and TRP's look much bigger and beefier than Juin F1's. Keeping my fingers crossed they'll fit my frame size!

Here the similar issue that i saw in aliexpress reviews
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158720

I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...

Had the same issue, but solved it by apply a thick layer of grease and the clicks disappeared. But after your post, I think I'll to sand down that part.

I just can't get my head around one simple thing. Why the F those companies keep sending early version of their products to PT without even doing a basic quality check before ?!

I think that is because the chinese companies doesn't have deep understanding to whom they send the product. they just want to gain popularity and quick sales using channels with a large number of subscribers. And companies know that many of this channels (we all know them) will just say that the frame or bike or any other product is good, they will smooth out all imperfections, like some sanding or shitty parts with words "but you know, this frame costs so many times cheaper than the sl8". Then they will give us first ride impression around a park, or even a bikeshop parking lot, saying default nonsense like "frame rides good, it's stiff but compliant, very responsive, I don't have any problem pushing my gigantic 320 watts", and then never ride it again. Same with other products, from wheels to groupsets.

Had the wheeltop eds tx now for just over 2 months. Rode about 600 mile on it with no problem until yesterday when I started to get intermittent shifting and the derailleur wouldn't move . The shifter was sending the signal to move and I also used the app and that wouldn't move the derailleur. Reinstalled everything and re paired everything but that didn't make any difference. I have swapped the shifter batteries for new ones but haven't had a chance to ride yet to see if that makes a difference. Has anyone got any other ideas or things I can try. I'm out of ideas!!

You can contact the manufacturer for a warranty.
You can reset system through the app and reinstall all settings.

Or you can open your derailleur and and check for water ingress if your derailleur has been in contact with water.

Here is example how to remove the battery.  https://youtube.com/watch?v=LLNrfIdh9r8

Here https://youtube.com/watch?v=-k5TzYEYwJg you can see that RD battery easily removable, i hope Wheeltop will sell batteries separately as other spare parts. Also video contains some instruction to prevent water ingress, you can turn on auto translation for subtitles, they are decent.

But you also need to check the main unit, the black box in the derailleur parallelogram, see this post and the attached pictures.

Here's the picture of those PCB.

As an addition the picture of a shifter button and a report about shifter water ingress.

 



 

This doesn't bode well for LTWOO in the Western market:

https://youtu.be/kPgnPGX-gs4?t=3473

Timestamp is at 58:00, Jesse Coyle recounts his experience on ER9.

What I do find slightly odd, is that LTWOO had plenty of notice that he was going to be building up his bike with the ER9, so they could have provided him with a bomb proof groupset, but obviously they didn't - water and dirt ingress and now he doesn't trust it, just like pretty much everyone else who have put out YT reviews.

And again this "we fixed it in the new version", I hear it every time, and groupsets continue to die.

Here's another long-term review. Some key points (with timecodes) that make me doubt this product:

https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=JHMSHH0__zzxd4wd&t=1202 - derailleur battery water ingress. Water may get between derailleur body and battery, which leads to contacts oxidation. Reviewer suggest to use some dielectric grease.

https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=8knm6_ZSHrH8LkoD&t=1365 - derailleur position has inconsistency, depends on which direction you switch the gear, up or down.
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=7p-z_e2Iu5W-udJQ&t=1686 - demonstration of this problem with the chain.

https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=_ZajossWHMnFm_bJ&t=1807 - the derailleur cage not made of carbon in the usual sense, it is made of "forged carbon" or from carbon fiber-reinforced polyamide composite, and the cage is flexy.
Same material used for brake levers, but they are strong enough. Interestingly, Shimano also uses similar material in their brake levers, you can see here https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=162876 that there is no large carbon sheets in the lever structure.

https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=JGfmfvKwvatbwflo&t=1879 - derailleur capacity, the reviewer observes chain slack, raising questions about the derailleur's capacity. However, Dave Noakes' review with identical gearing (50-34T and 11-34T) shows no such issue. Here https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=93qej-OCIJ8xxlTQ&t=1166 you can see derailleur cage on 50-34, and I'm not sure, whether the derailleur can accommodate a more extended chain wrap.

Hi, yes with the app I can control FD and RD and check the batteries of the shifters 3V.
But when I use the front shifter any green light, withe rear shifter only with the little I've a green light but  any movement too !!!!!? I don't understand. It's crazy.
Richard

The fact that you can use derailleurs via the app means that system "brain" in the rear derailleur is alright. If i understood you correctly, when you press the button on the front shifter - the led is flashing green, but when you press the button on the rear shifter - the led is flashing dimly and rear derailleur does not work.
I suggest you swap the CR2032 batteries in the shifters, or install new ones. I saw similar problem, in the app there was 3.12v but shifting didn't work, but with new batteries everything was fine.