The first option, assuming you a) asked Carbonda to supply a headset and so can use the compression ring etc; and b) the bars you intend to use are ACR system compatible.

The reason why buying the full FSA headset won’t be a complete solution for you, I said on page 4 of this thread:
 “For reference (I learned by trial and error) - the FSA 55R ACR bearings are 51.8x8. This means they’re not compatible with Carbonda’s crown race or compression ring. And the design of the frame means you can’t run an FSA 55R top bearing, FSA 55R compression ring and FSA 55R dustcover because the bearing seats lower in the top of the head tube, the compression ring has a lower stack height and so taken together the dust cover rubs on the top of the head tube.”

Hope that helps.

So this thing:
https://www.swinnertoncycles.co.uk/fsa-headset-spares-headset-top-cover-h2473-no-55r-1-5-acr-std-nylon-cone-spacer-p115674
with these
https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/mr170-th-070e-headset-bearing/


?

(waiting for mine to be shipped - went without bars)

or just buy this :
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/fsa-no-55r-acr-std-integrated-headset

Agree they are ugly. You can get around it by doing what I did which is using a different dust cap (as you can see I used the FSA ACR 55R  one) but with the carbonda compression ring etc but it’s quite an expensive way of doing it if you have to buy a whole new headset upper! Does look better though



 

Yes you are right !
I wanted to change the cups too because I find the carbonda ugly but ok I'll keep them and just change the bearings

Just to update with recent experience. Have in the past ordered a few sets of rims from Leon. Recently ordered a set of Uni wheels from Kelly. 23 internal, 31 wide, 56 deep, built onto their hubs with pillar wing 20 spokes. 634 USD posted to UK including tax - so less than £500.

Dealing with Kelly was very straightforward. Fast, professional, patient with me changing my mind. Paid on 3 Dec and wheels arrived in UK on 24 Dec. Wheels were above weight range quoted (1470 not 1390 +/- 3pc) but not too bothered - if I was chasing grams I wouldn’t be buying 56 deep wheels for £500. Wheels dished well, spokes even tension, etc.

Only thing to be aware of is the rims have drain holes which I didn’t think to ask about and Kelly didn’t ask I whether I wanted them or not. Don’t mind them on my gravel bike and whilst they are obviously practical, I wouldn’t have opted for them on the road bike. I’ll prob cover with decals.

Others here will be better placed to advise on specific China rim brake frame options, but if it helps to inform your thinking then:

- unless you specifically want a brand new frame then well worth looking on EBay and other marketplaces for used rim brake frame sets. I’m guessing you might be in the UK (‘wits’ end’) in which case there are some really good deals to be had on eBay rn for out-of-fashion carbon rim brake frames. Probably true in other countries too.

- plenty of good reasons to choose a frame that’s compatible with existing components rather than one that requires you to start again. But worth considering st least if you’re likely to want to upgrade those components at some point - if yes it could make more sense to bite the bullet now. Debates about performance aside, disc brake bikes on the whole allow more potential for bigger tyre clearance (although the 32 on that TanTan is wild).

- if you’re riding your endurance frame slammed with a long reach stem (130+) then that suggests you could afford to ride a more aggressive frame, at the very least with spacers and a shorter stem. If you find your Allez too sluggish, too unresponsive, too sit-up-and-beg - then you may want to get a frame with a more aggressive geometry. If you like the characteristics just fine, then - based on what you’ve said - no great advantage i wouldn’t have thought.

- you don’t give much detail on the type and amount of riding you are / want to do. i’m currently 87kg. I’ve got race bikes with 25mm tyres and endurance geometry bikes with up to 33mm tyres. The latter type is definitely more comfortable but the former does just fine because they fit me. If I want to go on a fast club ride I’m on the race bike, for commuting and longer, more leisurely rides, I’m not. If I could only have one type I’d go endurance geometry - for me, the speed and responsiveness benefit of the race bike isn’t great enough to trump comfort.

Hope that’s at least marginally thought provoking. Good luck!
 

I have a set of 105 shifters and derailleurs, with an FSA crankset. I already have carbon rim brake wheels from Elite wheels and Superteams. My original plan was to just upgrade my current 2020 Specialized Allez (alloy frame with carbon fork), but the temptation to buy a new CF frame is pretty high.

Since I already have most of the things I need, I don't really want to splash the cash on a whole new groupset, new wheels and a new frameset, so I'd like to stick to rim brake.

The Specialized I have is endurance geometry and I'm a little trepidatious when it comes to buying a CF racing frame. I already run my stems slammed and with slightly longer reach, but I am a bit concerned that the geometry of these bikes just won't work for me. I'm also a bigger rider (88 kg), and riding the widest tires I can has done worlds for my comfort on the bike (28c currently).

All that being said, I'm just not sure what I should do. I'd like a frame that has some aero features, but obviously the fastest bike is the one that's the most comfortable for you for the longest. I'm just trying to grab some Strava KOMs around here and beat my own records. If the best fit IS a race bike, that's okay.

So, aero features, rim brakes, comfortable enough, and fits 28c tires. I'm just overwhelmed by how many choices there are. I'm not sure if the aero bikes are THAT much better for me than the lightweight bikes, considering I'm so big. I'm not sure those aero features are going to be the better choice when I can only get so small, and climbing is already not my strong suit. Sorry for this being so long. I'm just kind of at my wits' end. Would I be better off building up my current alloy bike with the 105 components, or is there a good enough frame out there that wouldn't be such a bad option for my situation?

Helpful analysis, thanks. I’ve got a couple of Carbondas and rate them highly. Not that put off by the 30mm max tyre size, which - if their other frames are anything to go by - is probably conservative and I’ve got an all-road bike if I want 32+. But the weight is probably the killer for me - looks like I’d be hard pressed to keep a painted XXL build under 8kg without shallow rims and/or draping it in lightweight carbon bits.

If it is the Vitus ZX 1 Evo , and sure looks like it, it’s been out a while. Wonder if they’ve got something else in the making.

Cheers
Ben

The fork looks like an open mould fork (LT268).
30C clearance, not future proof.
1050+50g weight in M is nothing to write home about, which makes me suspect it's not a new design given they call it ultra light.
100% full toray carbon fiber - could be full T700, you'll never know. Usually when they use high end materials OEMs write about it.
That seat post looks uncomfortable (thin and long, that's what she said). I'd make sure to run max tyre size, and wouldn't buy that unless you're going to have a lot of exposed seatpost (if you have very little saddle to bar drop, consider another frame).
the downtube is quite large / round, for something meant to be aero. You can have a look at the LT268 in comparison that's much more tear drop shaped. Presumably at high speeds, it matters, and dont buy such a frame if you're not going to go fast.

People here say good things about carbonda though (gravel / endurance bikes).

Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with the Carbonda CFR-VT02?

https://www.carbonda.com/road/cfr-vt02.html

I can’t find any talk about it, let alone builds, on this forum or anywhere else for that matter. Maybe it’s newly released?

(The description of it as an ‘ultra weight’ frame on the website might be why no one’s bought it )


Cheers

Ben

Yeah it is a bit confusing. In the end i:

- replaced the bearings with MH-P16 40x52x7 45/45 - also known as 1B3 K4052H7 MR128 TH-070E MR170. I bought mine from Hambini at £11 each.
- used Carbonda’s crown race and top compression ring (through which cables feed)
- used an FSA ACR 55R dust cap, along with an FSA ACR spacer. The FSA ACR dust cap is compatible with the Carbonda compression ring and the FSA spacers are compatible with the Carbonda bars.

For reference (I learned by trial and error) - the FSA 55R ACR bearings are 51.8x8. This means they’re not compatible with Carbonda’s crown race or compression ring. And the design of the frame means you can’t run an FSA 55R top bearing, FSA 55R compression ring and FSA 55R dustcover because the bearing seats lower in the top of the head tube, the compression ring has a lower stack height and so taken together the dust cover rubs on the top of the head tube.

The FSA dust cover aesthetically is a lot nicer than the Carbonda one - not sure if you can buy it separately without having to buy the whole headset.

Hope that helps!