I just finished building my second slr from Airwolf (one for myself and one for a friend). Some experiences to share:
Ordering the frame went quite smoothly, as well communications with Airwolf during the whole process: easy to get in touch with them and they're willing to help.
Their statement that this is the original is obviously not true. Some small issues, especially with the small parts that come with the frame, indicate this is a copy. A good one though, as far as I can judge without testing it to and over its limits. Fair paint job, though it seems a bit easy to damage. We'll see.
Please note that though the website states the frame is also suitable for mechanical shifting, it is not. Just like the original gen 7 Madone, it is only suitable for Di2 (or any other electronic shifting). The internal routing of a rear shifting cable has to go through too many sharp bends to let it shift smoothly. I spent a lot of time and trying several things to get it shifting without any issues, but in the end decided to strip the mechanical groupset and replace it by Di2. Learning the hard way... The second build-up was an easy job after that.
Routing the brakehoses through the handlebar is really a pain. It took me quite some time and the help of an extra hand to get them through. I guess that'd be the same with an original; it's caused by the design.
The parts that come with the seatpost are a bit sloppy. The wedge used to fixate it in the frame is way to smooth and therefore too slippery. Using carbon paste is explicitly discouraged. Ordering an original wedge (which has a roughed surface) solved it easily. The sadlle clamp was skewed and too wide (and heavy), and again using an original solved it.
The headset bearings seem to fit well, but there's still some minor play in the headsets of both bikes after putting the bike together. In the second build I replaced the splitring on top of the upper bearings with an original one, but that didn't resolve the issue. My conclusion is it has to do with the first spacer. Adding an extra C ring on top as suggested above might solve it, not yet tried.
The holes for mounting the front caliper were in the right place (both builds), but quite rough on the inside. The threading of the holes in the forks had to be cleaned out/threaded, otherwise the bolts needed far too much force to get them in.
The mount for the rear caliper on one of the frames is not exactly even, so when I tighten the bolts the caliper will not stand exactly upright. This makes it almost impossible to adjust the caliper enough to let the disc run freely. Probably some paint issue. Solved by putting some thick nail polish on the frame on one edge of the bolt hole.

Both bikes have been ridden for a few hundred km and it feels fast and sturdy. The handlebar is pretty flexible, which I didn't expect from a carbon one. But that may be me not being used to an aero bar.
All in all I am quite positive about the Airwolf frame. If you go for this frame I'd advice to buy some original parts with it at the trek webshop right away: seatpost wedge and saddle clamp (together about 30€). But if you're thinking about building a very nice bike yourself, I'd certainly consider this frame.

This Airwolf frame has some mixed things. Some parts are the same as Cervelo (seatpost clamp, stem,....) and some others are same as Specialized (derailleur hanger, headset bearings,...).
For example, I replaced original hanger with direct mount model for specialized, so I can install GRX derailleur without the connection link.

After replacing original bearings (they´re a little bit crappy) with the ones for Specialized Tarmac SL7, I also replaced compression ring (split ring) with the Tarmac SL7 model I bought in Aliexpress. Cables and hoses guiding is better, headset adjust is now much better and has zero play.

Next step will be to replace the compression plug (the one that needs to be sanded to fit stem) with the model that J&L sells, compatible with Cervelo "C" shape fork. Part is on the way and I hope that once installed it has better grip inside the fork. Original one slips upwards if you apply more than a certain torque to the headcap.