God I hope that OSPW isn't the only option

Welp, I'm about to find out what it's like to reach out to Ltwoo. I had a bit of a crash late yesterday evening riding some proper gravel track about 10 miles or so from my house. I went over the bars and my bike went elsewhere and bent the eGR. It almost looked rideable, but then after a few strokes trying to ride it the chain sucked the derailleur into the wheel. I spent a few minutes untangling everything and managed to get it free and clear of the wheel and the cassette. After that, I really don't know how, it was shifting again and I was able to ride it home. I spent the rest of that ride home puzzling over in my head how it could still be shifting smoothly while it was obviously bent all to hell (I stuck to a few speeds in the middle of the cassette and avoided the extremes to avoid dropping my chain). It was pitch dark when I got home so all I did was hose the bike down and put it away. I haven't been able to give it a proper post-mortem and see what's salvageable and not. From what little I did see, my derailleur hanger looks straight as an arrow but the first part of the eGR that connects to my hanger looks bent badly. I didn't bother looking at the jockey wheel cage but I assume that's got some bend as well. I suspect it still shifted smoothly because the parallelogram which contains all of the shifting mechanism and geometry was still internally aligned. I'll post some pics once I have a chance to look at it and also reach out to Ltwoo and see if any of my bent parts can be obtained from them instead of scrapping the whole thing.

Both my road bikes are running Ltwoo ER9 and they've been running flawlessly. I've been tempted to go electronic with all my bikes, though I'm hesitant with my gravel setup just incase something happens while I'm on a remote trail in the mountains. The other thing is I'm not entirely convinced I'll stay 1x, I also like 2x gravel as well. I'm currently using  2x Ultegra shifters, so it'd be easy to drop a mechanical FD if I switch back.

Okay, so an update. I torqued it to 10Nm and it looked great, no problems for two rides. But the last ride a little headset play returned and upon checking the torque on the expander bolt it was loosened quite a bit. Should I use loctite or similar on the expander bolt to avoid it from loosening from the vibrations?

I always find these discussions fascinating. Real vs Fake vs Counterfeit.

The motive and intent behind such purchases becomes crucial. Strictly as an experiment or test case I can understand the rationale. Sometimes we subconsciously look to the forums for validation to justify our purchases. The overwhelming number of replies I've seen in here over the years point to fake/counterfeit frames being a bad idea for the variety of aforementioned reasons.

So ultimately it comes down to what purpose a fake frame will serve. Your money your choice end of the day.

For context, I looked into getting a counterfeit Rolex Submariner over 3 years ago. Even back then the VSF Chinese factories practically perfected the Submariner. I can't imagine what tiny nuances they've improved on these days. But in the end I settled on a super high quality homage watch. Almost identical specs as the Rolex, and comes with a warranty. The brand isn't trying to pass their watch off as Submariner which I appreciate.

The irony here is the fake frame and fake Rolex both could pose injury to the owner. If you know what I mean...

I might be installing this group on someone's bike. The description by LTWoo about the calipers is throwing me off. They say its not flat mount, its not compatible with standard spacing and you would need a flat mount adapter to be purchased separately. What other parts does one need exactly for it to fit onto flat mount frame/fork? I see they include an adapter, is that not enough?