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Messages - zev

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: July 08, 2024, 02:51:52 PM »
Thanks, build went well.

My build:
Shimano 105 mechanical group set, Praxis crank, DT Swiss wheels all stolen off donor Specialized 2019 Allen Sprint Comp Disk with cracked seat stays I purchase on Craigslist for $300. Needed new set of pads ($60) and bar tape ($22) but otherwise everything was in good working order.  Cabled it up with generic amazon brake hose ($16) and Shimano Optislick Shift Cable Set (R7000) ($24). Bottom bracket is the Praxis M30-BB86 ($45) because it needed to be compatible with the crank.

I had not read the advice here, and ran my cables from the back to the front. it was all actually fine, I mean it was a little struggle getting both the brake and the shifter cable through the bars, but it didn't take more than one evening of swearing.  That seems pretty good based of some of the stories I have heard.  Needed to drill out the front derailure cable hole, and ran the housing all the way to the shifter.  From the horror stories I have heard, I was worried about shift performance all round but have been impressed, it feels snappier and easier all round VS the 10speed Ultregra I have on my other bike. woot!

Really enjoyable ride. fit feels good, reach might be slightly long, but will find out on my first long ride.  Im 6'1", got the 56cm Large.

Only issue? creak.  Ive got the bottom bracket creak.  I'll be going through with a torque wrench, grease, and RTV silicone to see if I can chase it down. First ride was perfect (12mi) second ride it now seems to creak with anything above a light pedal stroke.  Just like one click, but quite annoying.  Hope its just e pedal or crank bolt or something... removing the press fit BB in there with Loctite Superflex RTV is not something I look forward to, nor is it something I have any idea how I would improve on re-install.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: July 04, 2024, 02:21:46 PM »
4. Front derailleur cable port - If you're running mechanical shift cables, routing and setting up the FD will most likely account for half of the entire time you spend on the bike build itself. The 177, 168, and CX-002 all use this style of cable port. Just be patient...

Hey... about that front derailleur port. When you route, do you end the cable housing with a cap inside the frame, on the little included port, or did you have another section of housing from port to derailleur?  Seems like such an odd design choose to make the cable make the 90 deg turn in the housing, then end the housing just for the straight portion. I'm tempted to simply run the housing the whole way and just add a gromit. not sure how it would work out though.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: July 04, 2024, 11:32:37 AM »
The spacer included won't be needed as the fork has the race built into it instead of others that don't.

Thanks! I was nervous because I haven't seen carbon forks sitting directly on the bearing, but it does appear to have the correct angle.  Wish VB provided some documentation, but I suppose that is what you sacrifice for the price.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: July 04, 2024, 10:24:36 AM »
Question for anyone else who has put this bike together:

This spacer seems to be putting way to large of a gap in-between the fork and the frame if installed, but I cant imagine it is supposed to be left out.  Emailed VB, no response yet.  Did you all have this same issue?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
« on: July 02, 2024, 08:09:47 AM »
Hello, my VB177 in raw matte carbon arrived yesterday and I am overall quite happy with the quality.  I will be filing the caliper mounts as they dont seem quite flat, and the cable guides/from its seem to be not capable of sitting perfectly flush with the frame, but otherwise it is very impressive for the price.

I have questions for those who have built this up before:  I am building with Shimano 105 mechanical, hydraulic disc.  I know this is going to be a cable wrangling experience… do you recommend starting with cables attached to brifters and routing through from the top to the back, or starting with cables attached to breaks and routing bottom up? Or put the cables in one way or another, and terminate both ends after everything is run?

Second question, as this is my first internal cable build:  how and where do you put the foam cable sheath on? Seems like it must feed on  from the headset side, but not sure where it is most important to be, and also not sure where I DONT want it because the excess thickness would get in the way.

Thanks!

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