Don't worry about the disc brake aspect. They require some different tools, but it really isn't that hard. Read up (watch up) on the process for your brake type (different ones have different preferred procedures even though the basics are usually the same) and be patient. And don't forget that if you have DOT fluid, you do not want that getting on anything. It's not instant death    But it will corrode or remove paint. Water or IPA clean well so it isn't that big of a deal. You just have to do it.

If this new frame is 'normal' don't worry about it too much. The principles are usually the same on them all

Press fit parts (headset and sometimes BB) are a new skill set that does require tooling to do safely and well. But there are lots of low-cost but adequate quality tools around. Just don't use a hammer (which can be done but you can screw it up badly). This is in the category where you might just ask a pro to do this part for you if you don't want to buy tools

Di2 does require fitting cables avoided by AXS. But if the bike is designed for it, the routes should be available to you and not a big deal. Get a cheap cable/hose fish tool. Thin wires with magnets make it a breeze. I had to do one recently where it turned out that it was not possible to get the end fitting around the curve from the down tube to the chainstay without removing the BB (it was already installed from a prior build) I recommend running the wires as an early step to avoid these issues.

Get the cable routing tool. Cheap ones are fine. Cutting the fork straight is easier with a guide but you can do it by hand with the right saw. Don't forget how dangerous carbon dust is (wear a respirator and clean up) Again, you can pay a mechanic to do it for you once you've figured out the measurement.

General advice:
- Double check compatibility between parts. If it's all new stuff, it's usually not bad. But as soon as you vary vintages it can get interesting.
- Take your time with a first build. It's not that hard but can sometimes be a puzzle
- Use a torque wrench. Look up all the specs before you start so you're not tempted to cheat. Modern fine components whether metal or plastic (CF) are strong but intolerant of overtorquing. And slipping parts are bad. (make sure you have carbon grip compound)
- At every fitting, use lube, antiseize or loctite as appropriate. Your future self will appreciate it. Look up which is appropriate for each application if you don't know.
- As said before, don't be afraid to go to a pro. If they're any good, they'll appreciate you're trying not laugh at you :-)  A few dollars/euro is worth the peace of mind and avoiding damage. (or cheaper than the tool)  My first build came with a headset, but I wanted it out to service before the build. I could NOT get it out. Before I damaged something with my own ignorance, I took it in to the shop. When I came back, I asked if I'd done something wrong or if it was damaged. He told me (with a chuckle), that it was REALLY stuck. It took two of them to get it out.
- Have fun doing it. It's a real satisfaction to create your whole bike from parts. Don't worry if you get frustrated occasionally.

I finally finished writing up my installation notes on the GeX system (I started, got busy and forgot to finish). If you're interested, you can read it here

https://trbike.blogspot.com/2025/04/installing-wheeltop-gex.html


I'm still working on the comparison to LTWOO

Unfortunately, I didn't think to ask. However, given that the entire staff on the booth (as far as I saw) was from China, it does not seem they are staffing up here.

Unfortunately, at the moment, it's a bit of a moot point. At 124% tariff rates (today, who knows tomorrow), the pricing gets to be a problem in the USA. Anything arriving now to stock up would be subject to that rate. So local stock won't really help pricing. Sure, Wheeltop will see the same. But AFAIK, SRAM is made in Taiwan and Shimano is partly PRC but mostly other countries. So the discounted prices of the Big S products will not be far from the tariffed prices of the newcomers.

The direct import de minimis exemption is still in place but only until EOD May 2nd at this time.

I highly recommend getting a separate battery charger and charging the batteries before installing it into the battery holder. Also clean the connectors periodically as well. I find my eGR port needs to be cleaned more often than my eR9 setup.

Interesting comment. Is there any difference between the ports on the eGR and eR9? AFAIK, the basic connector is the same. But perhaps positioning, or the surrounding or... 

I ask because I'm still trying to figure out why my first one became problematic to charge (despite brushing, alcohol etc.) and the warranty V2 unit (based on the longer cage and no other details) works fine so far and might be different

Why do you think that it would be better to buy an eRX groupset and an eGR RD? Apart from that, that I would surely have a working 2by system, but I would like to have the eGR brifters, they might be better optimized for gravel.

On the requirement to have the dual port battery and FD which are available in the eRX group. So, if the groupset is buyable cheaper than the parts (often the case), that would be efficient. But you could also get eGR and buy a second battery from the eRX group with dual ports and an FD. But that brings up the 'does it really work' with eGR brifters question again. I would have greater confidence (but still unknown) that the eRX 2x setup could talk to an eGR wide-range RD than the eGR 1x brifters (which officially allow you to use left or right to shift the RD but no other combo) to be able to also control the FD. The way pairing works on LTWOO and other wireless systems, it appears that the RD is the master in the system and thus could be the deciding factor in cross comopatibility.

I just ordered a new cage from 80 Design as I bent my original one. It'll be interesting to see whether it's the longer one (I hope so, as I'm running a large cassette out of spec)

I'll be very curious to hear.

I asked a follow-up for details on the one I got and all they would say is that they hoped they'd be able to sell the new version soon. I inferred that they got some early production on an unreleased product.

I can't see anything and I've looked at them side by side.

What I have noticed is that it works with my 10-50 WAY better. (Yes, I know I was running it out of spec). I haven't had it on the road yet but what I've noticed is:

• Almost no B screw tension to put it in position on a 50t. With V1, it needed nearly full extension
• On the stand, shifting at the bigger cogs seems crisper
• The initial calibration point is WAY off. But it was on the V1 as well. The position for gear 1 lines up about the 5th cog.  Easy enough to fix with the initial calibration but it makes one think it's messed up at first. Once calibrated, no micro adjustment needed on a Garbuaruk 11s

We'll see on the road tomorrow I hope.

Clean your battery cable and RD magnetic port. I periodically wipe both down with a cotton swab and alcohol. After camping trips, my RD is very dirty so I find the alcohol does the trick cleaning debris on the magnetic port.

This should hopefully fix your issue! 

Unfortunately, I have done both several times, on both cables I have. Still unstable. If I keep trying it over and over it will eventually connect