I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.

So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.

I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.

Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?

You willsee I complained about similar in on the 29mm version. In the end I made them work as I wanted them, but I also found the q-factor wider than I wanted. You should be able to shorten each side of the axle by at least 1mm without problems with spline engagement.

I was thinking of getting a newer 29mm set, with the loose axle, then it can be shortened. I also wanted to see if other bb30/dub axles fit their spline interface, seeing as this copies easton and they use a standard bb30 interface.

I've Just noticed that my "new " r1 received 2 days ago is like a new version
It has the same lockring on drive and NDS, and weight a Little more than previous received in june

Do you mean that both sides have a nut and its possible to remove the axle if you really want?

Ive installed an eGR group on my gravelbike recently.
Must say Im impressed with the shifter ergonomics, they are very small in volume and feel similar to my 11sp etap rim brake shifters, except for the bump that houses the hydraulics.

I have some propper rechargeble batteries in there and thus far its still going on its first charge. Running 12spd with an 11-42 cassette and shifting is crisp and fast.

I did notice that the RD screws were coming loose, as it was mentioned in here earlier, but I just tightened them up again.

I did not do anything special with the cabling and have done some wet rides without a problem. I have found, however, that with my rh shifter, the buttons get stuck sometimes, but not in a shifting position. I do wish they would open the software to enable button setup, as I would much rather set it up to shift in the AXS style.

The brakes work astonishingly well, very light brake lever feel and definate bite point.

Will be testing it soon on some rougher gravel, but till now Im very impressed.

Hi everyone. First post on chinertown, must say, I like getting more insight on the product I buy as well, outside of the usual youtube channels.

Why Im on this thread. I bought a set of these lexon cranks, first without a powermeter.

First unboxing everything looked amazing, and weight is super.
I was super happy to see that I received one with a black bolt instead of the purple one.

I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.

So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.

I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.

Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?