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Messages - Rolle2k

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1
Bought this frame as my new daily driver. Still debating about the groupset. Did anyone have problems setting it up mechanical?

I run mechanical GRX 1x12-speed, no trouble whatsoever.

2
When I ordered my frame from Carbonda a few years ago there were some things that would be nice to have, such as extra derailleur hangers etc. Is there anything you guys recommend adding to my order from Tantan? Will not be getting handlebars as I have bars from Kocevlo that I'll use for this build.

Since the frame does have UDH it is in fact a standard, you can find it everywhere. This is great for us consumers since you don't need a hanger specific for your frame. Then only think you need to look out for when you buy a new UDH is that it is correct thread pitch for your axle.
M12x1.5p is most common, but i have also had M12x1.0p on some frames.

3
I like that there are low stack frames like Tidace, for 2 main reasons:
I'm 1.70, but but short legs and long torso. So, I need the stack to be as low as possible. Anything above 530 is too much for me.
Also, I race gravel, an some races are most like road races than really rough terrain. Aero is a must.
Currently I race a Van Rysel RCX, but the limitation of 40mm tires and high stack send me to the search for a new frame.

Agreed, if you race than there is a reason to buy low stack frame. And everyone is different built, but age plays a big part also. At the same time - if you race longer races than 30km i think it can introduce neck problems, which higher stack could possibly solve. This frame is actually quite extremely low stack for being a gravel bike. I haven't found any other frame like it!
Also i think many does not buy the bike for real racing, but rather racing for fun, not competition.

On my bike today i have 150mm headtube, about 25mm spacers and 500mm seat tube, kind of same top tube-lenght as G069. When we did a 105km run this summer i felt it would actually be good with even a bit higher stack. I could probably not use longer than 60-70mm stem on any of these two frames in Small/520. I'm 177 with kind of normal leg length.

anyway, my point is : if you don't do competition riding - i think most people would do better with a higher stack frame.

4

You seem to have a pretty strong opinion on geometry. Knowing it’s a mix of matter of taste, physical preconditions, riding style, etc., what Frame would you recommend/ride yourself?

I just bought the Tideace and I can confirm that it is a sporty/race seating position but I think it’s quite nice to ride (tested it only for 30km so far.)

Half the point in building a bike (at least for me) is to build one with geometry which suits my liking/riding.
And for a race road bike - it would (in my opinion) be ok with low stack, and a more aggressive positioning. But for anything else - leasure rides, communting, or a bit harsher terrain i think it is always better to have a bit more relaxed position - doesnt give neck problems in the long run, and better control in rowdy terrain. Actually for gravelbike in general i think ultra low stack is never needed.
The same applies to headtube angle - that is also to personal liking... i think 71-72 is great for the type of riding i like and mostly do - if you go harsher terrain i understand you go down to maybe 70. If more than that is needed, we are into MTB territory imo.
This is just my opinion, nothing else. And as said, stack is always fixable with spacers - but i would rather look at another frame with more stack.
Both frames does have it's positives and drawbacks - but for me, GV201 does have the biggest drawbacks of the two.

lidation who started the thread asked for opinions, and the above are my opinions.

5
I would probably want 4-6cm spacers on the GR201. So yes its all what you are fine with.
For a race bike i think the stack is ok. But not for gravel - even though its a gravel race bike.
Geometry-wise the 520 size has the best seat-/headtube-angles also. Then it gets worse for each size larger.

Regarding painting, its usually quite crappy from chinese manufacturers. No personal experience with TanTan, but Spcycle usually does so-so looking paint jobs when i have bought from them - especially around mounting holes of the frame.

6
The biggest downsides with the Noah/GR201 is as you said, the long chainstays AND the ultra low stack. Also geometry seems alot worse if you go to the bigger sizes.
Of course you could fix the stack with extra spacers - but it cerntainly won't look good.

What i would actually want is a G069 with larger wheel-clearance (2.1"), internal storage - and 0.5 degree higher seat tube angle (74 degree) But that is just me :-)

7
The spcycle bearing is 7mm thick, but since it has less 45-degree edge cut away, it gives more stack than the 8mm thick Ritchey WCS.
Usually it looks like 8mm bearings actually has less stack than 7mm bearings, since they make more room for the 45-degree cutaway of the edges, so the bearing sits deeper down the headtube, and also the compression ring sits a bit deeper into the bearing itself.

8
After alot of fiddling i solved the gap OK with the ritchey comp headset..
First of all i ordered the Ritchey WCS headset bearing - which is a IS52-bearing that doesnt add as much height as the is52-one that followed with the headset/cover kit. They are physicalle both 8mm thick - but the 45degree angel-parts, are bigger on both sides, which makes the bearing give at least about 0.5mm (or so) less stack.
Then i removed the rubber sealing ring that is under around the edges of the cover - put a little bit of hot melt glue all around on the inside, put the sealing back fast and put it on and torqued down the headset. this made the rubber seal all the way down - and its not possible to see the glue from outside - the rubber closes the whole gap.

It would be better if ritchey just released different height of the rubber sealing, (like +0,5mm +1.0mm, +1.5mm and +2.0mm thickness) but this is alot better than before, and will certainly stop alot of dust/water getting there.

9
Can you send a picture of the headset with the Ritchey

This picture is just put on, with original bearing. Spacing should be a little smaller with pre-loaded fork/headset bearings. and even smaller with other bearing.
Got answer from ritchey, and they don't have any other gasket, and wont make other gasket either.

10
I have tried the Ritchey comp switch headset and stem, and it works - but you'll have to live with a ~2mm spacing between the frame and headset cover, if you don't fix your own gasket there inbetween.
Tried different bearings to get it closer, but still at least 1.6mm with the best bearing so far... so i dont know what to do about that one. Doesn't look nice, and i just see lots of dirt going in there.
The Ritchey headset got a small rubber gasket below the cover - i emailed ritchey asking if they were thinking about making that rubber gasket i different heights - which would fix the problem.

For now i ordered the Bontrager / Trek headset cover which was shown above in picture. Will try that one and wait for ritcheys answer before i decide what to do.

11
An update on my end - I have ordered the 50mm deep/ 28/36mm wide rims from XMCarbonSpeed with Pillar Wing 20s. They are made in a version without spoke holes too which is nice for setup. Peter at XMCarbonSpeed is great to deal with - hopefully the wheelset is as good as the communication.

May i ask what the cost was for these wheels, and what was the final weight.
Also i guess the hubs are 36t dt swiss compatible like so many others?

12
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Race Gravel frame
« on: December 10, 2024, 06:21:00 AM »
I don't think that the G068/G069 is that extremely racy. 145mm headtube in small, with 480mm seat tube.
It does got quite big reach - especially in the larger sizes. But that can be a little bit compensated with a zero-offset seatpost and it is supposed to have quite short stem. 70-80mm typically.
Also since seat tube is 73.5 in pretty much all sizes (not extremely high) you can always adjust the saddle a bit forward with a zero offset post, and it will be more relaxed.

Also you can also add a little stack with some spacers if you think it is to low.
The GR201 frame does indeed have extremely low stack, so if that is a concern i would stay away from that frame.

13
Finally got this built and out for a shakedown ride - haven't had it on the gravel yet but first impressions are excellent. Geometry feels dialed. Paint looks fantastic. SRAM mullet is fantastic for a gravel build. Size S and a 70mm stem (same as Canyon supply on stock builds) is ideal for my 174cm height. XMCarbonSpeed wheels were easy to set up and seal, and even the own brand tubeless valves seemed nicely made.

Downsides in building:
- BB and brake mounts needed facing
- Grommets on the frame are a poor fit once you run a hose through them (if I had my time again I probably would've ordered the fully internally routed one).
- Headset/UDH/axles are pretty chunky - suspect that a fair bit of weight could be shaved off these.





Code: [Select]
Part      Item                                           Weight (g)   Notes
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Frame     SP Cycle G068 size S (Grail 2023 clone)        2000         Weight includes frame, uncut fork, headset, all bolts, 1x blanking plate, seatpost clamp, thru-axles, UDH
Fork      SP Cycle G068 size S (Grail 2023 clone)       
Headset   SP Cycle G068                                 

Seatpost  Elita One 27.2mm 0 offset                      141
Bars      Kalloy FL12 40cm                               299
Stem      Kalloy non-uno 70mm                            127
Saddle    China carbon                                   160

Groupset  SRAM Red mullet
Shifters  SRAM Red AXS                                   467
Brakes    SRAM Red AXS + IIIPro 160mm rotors             520         
Crank     Sram Force D2 DUB wide + Magene P505 + SRAM 40t700
BB        DUB Road wide T47                              100
FD        1x                                             0
RD        Sram GX Eagle AXS                              430
Chain     Sram GX 12 speed                               250
Cassette  SRAM XG-1295 10-50                             354

Wheels    XM Carbon Speed 50mm deep / 28/36mm wide       1430         Front = 670g, Rear = 760g
Tubes     Tubeless sealant + valves                      120          Valves = 12g
Tyres     Tufo Thundera HD 48mm                          1090
Skewers   Thru axle                                                   Weight in frame

Pedals    Shimano XT M8100                               330
Bar Tape  AliX Supacaz                                   100
Cages     Carbon                                         50
Cables    Battery                                        25
Other     AliX integrated Garmin mount                   40

Total                                                   8733          8.7 weighed

Looking great.. would it be possible to fit mudguards with the 48mm thunderos? I'm still waiting for my frame, and i ordered 55mm wide mudguards, and would hope they will work all the way up to around that size..
I was thinking of running 40mm tyres for commuting, and 45-50mm for riding harsher terrain. The bigger that fits, the better.

14
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Race Gravel frame
« on: December 10, 2024, 03:48:39 AM »
Sp-cycle g068 is a clone of the new canyon grail... so that would be best to start with.
Tantan GR201 is another one, even lower stack - but maybe a bit too long chainstay, and geometry is not that great in larger sizes.. if S or M is your size, then it looks great geometry wise.

15
How is the seatpost clamp on this one? especially with carbon seatposts? so there any need for carbon grip paste? how much torque is needed on that screw?

Thinking about going with the Ergon CF Allroad Pro with the frame, which is why i'm asking.

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